mc2hill

That is not a good scenario. I have read reports from someone I trust that the Flex cordless tools will run for 45 minutes and charge in about the same time.

Welcome to Adam's Forums!

The thing with the pads and polishes is you don't know exactly what will work the best until you do the test spot. Some black paint will correct with finishing polish/pads while others require microfiber pads. Some will mar even with finishing polish/pads, and will require using water on the pads to keep them cool or switching to a super-soft sealant pad. Maybe wetsanding is more effective for the bad parts and will give a better finish. The basics of paint correction is straight forward, but the more you do different cars you find it is an art!

@SouthernSteve The piano black door trim should be correctable with Finishing polish and a white pad. I have done this with Audi, BMW, and MB's and they turn out great.

Maybe with a new machine coming out the current ones will be on sale? And I am with Juan - when you are buying polishing pads buy at least 2 of each color/type. But you only one need one sealant pad, if you are looking at those.

The MF cutting pad should work, but you will want the 5.5" pads and matching backing plate. Not sure if you have down sized to the 5" backing plate, but it allows the Porter Cable to work more efficiently, along with the thin MF pads. My experience with Corvettes (C4) are the same as Dan's - you need MF pads to correct them.

I would expect the abrasives are not the same as when they were put in the bottle! Some polishes I have used (not Adam's) would have separated after that long.

Welcome Allen!

Brilliant Glaze, Brilliant Glaze! I use this on all the show cars I do. I usually put it on first, then top with wax to make the 'pop' last longer.

Have you tried polishing them? Or 0000 steel wool with some polish? I have some water spot removers you are welcome to try, but you have to brave the Halloween traffic to pick it up!

Welcome Gene!

It sounds like you have a large polisher, so remember it can be tilted to only use the edge of the polishing pad to get into smaller spaces - a 'free' 1 inch polisher! I have an SK mini and it is great, but not the only way to 'skin the cat'.

I bought lots of the blue plush waffle towels on closeout several years ago, and mostly use them for clay bar work or wiping after Coating Prep.

Nice save! A new whip for Mrs. Sizzle or you? Her fall color pics on IG from this trip are amazing!

Welcome Craig!

I would not. A long time ago Waterless Wash and Glass Cleaner were the same thing (so I was told), but I would not clean the glass with a product that had 'additives'. You can create 'waterless wash' if you have Rinseless Wash.

Clay or a 'clay' mitt will take car of this. The Adam's Clay Mitt should take of this faster than regular clay, but you may want to try the Medium Grade Clay bar. I have done several of these, and it is a long process, and will require polishing to removal all the marring from scrubbing with the clay. And use lots of clay lube - Rinseless Wash diluted for clay lubricant (64:1).

Usually black with swirl faster than other colors. It may just be that you can see it easier, as the color is under the clearcoat, which should be same clearcoat that is used for other colors. But it is usually the "softest" of paint colors, but is should correct easily.

@SgtLip You could use Waterless Wash to clean windows if you don't have Glass Cleaner. I do the windows last.

What color is the SUV, and what make is it? My black Nissan truck will swirl with a strong look and I have seen the same with black Inifiniti's. Our 2017 Charcoal Accord is swirl-free since new and I do a Rinseless Wash on it every few weeks.

Welcome Felix! I use Adam's Paint Sealant often, but I have never had an issue removing it. Perhaps you put it on too thick? You stated you applied with a buffer at low speed (I use it at about setting 2), which usually makes it go on thin. I apply to a the whole vehicle, then remove, and have not had an problem removing it, even when the humidity and/or temps are high. I would have suggested spraying the tougher areas with Detail Spray or even to work a little more product in the areas, then wipe right away.

I did a Rinseless Wash on my truck and finished off a bottle of spray wax from another vendor to add a little protection. I bought it just as H2O G&G was coming out, and have not used to too much. There was just enough to do the truck, then I kept the sprayer and tossed the bottle in recycling. The product had begun to break down some - it had tiny white chunks when sprayed. If/When the weather cools off I will put Paint Sealant on it. @Captain Slow I used the remaining Rinseless Wash to clean the wheels too, and it worked fine, as my truck does not produce much dust.

This information is available from other detailing sources that cater more to the full-time detailer, and several offer books and classes. Also check out the IDA (International Detailing Association), as that is their focus.

Many products that we think of as 'detailing' products are used for other applications (the Porter Cable polisher is a repurposed dual action sander), and many of the products are from the janitorial/cleaning industries. As for vacuum cleaners, Metro Vac (the folks that make the Sidekick and the Master Blaster) offer their products to dog groomers and other industries. They just paint them different colors and change the accessories.

Sure, but I would be tempted to do a quick Waterless Wipe down and put on another layer of BG. I am glad it is finally car show season down here!