shane@detailedreflections

I'll be taking more pictures as we continue to work. That's the only part of the car that's been polished so far. There's still MUCH to be done to complete this detail. And yes, that's a customer fiberglass enclosure on the floor that holds a JL Audio 8" subwoofer. That little sub puts out a lot of sound. The only speakers in it are the sub and a set of JL Audio components in the door (which was dynamat covered) and dash all powered by a Diamond Audio micro amp. The headunit is a Kenwood with Apple Carplay and navigation with front and rear view cameras. The shop that did the work did a great job. I have no issues.

I agree with Dan above that it shouldn't affect performance. That being said, having multiple sets of pads laying around is never a bad idea. You never know when one may have a failure or become so dirty that it's no longer doing it's job. I know I keep multiple pads for each polisher in the drawer "just in case." It's cheap insurance that I'll be able to finish the job and that I have options available if needed.

You can still polish single stage paint, it's just much softer and usually uses less aggressive technique to do so. Starting with the least aggressive methods is usually the preferred system anyway. I'd start with a fine polish and see if that clears it up enough to your liking. Just know that you will see paint transfer to the pads since there's no independent clear coat layer.

Nothing to really be nervous about. The secret to the coating is taking your time in the prep stage. You want the paint as clean and flawless as you can possibly get it. Once the coating goes on, the only way to remove it is with a polisher. Work slowly with the coating and know it's going to be somewhat of a lengthy process. You can make the process go faster if you work with a second installer and get in sync with each other, but that's not always practical. There are some good reviews here of people who have installed the coatings. I started a write-up myself on the process as I put a coating on my garage queen (the project will be done sometime next week, but the prep is started). Feel free to read, look and ask questions. Go slow. Prep thoroughly. Even though the kit comes with quite a bit of prep, I keep a second 16 ounce bottle around just so I never feel like I have to conserve to have enough. I'd rather have enough prep to cover an area a few times until I'm satisfied it's perfect. You can handle this.

I know I posted some after shots after going through the Lotus before, but I figured I'd write this detail to take everyone through the process for a full ceramic coating of the car. The car was sealed and waxed not that long ago, along with some very quick polishing. This time since my intent was/is to ceramic coat the car, the tolerance for what's acceptable is tighter as I want to remove as many potential defects as I possibly can to aim for that truly deep and perfect finish. In doing this, we plan to use a variety of products and techniques. First of all, once the car was rolled out of the garage it was time to do a strip wash. The car was foamed with an MTM foam cannon using strip wash. The suds clung to the car nicely and were left for a few to soak in. Once agitated, the foam was washed with high pressure from the pressure washer. To ensure that all of the spots were adequately washed and stripped, the car was then washed again with strip wash using the standard two bucket method. The wheels were cleaned up, but not obsessively as they'll be coming off later for coating. We will really get after them when we have them off. After the car was cleaned, we wanted to decontaminate the car. To achieve this we used wheel cleaner diluted 1:1 with distilled water. Spraying the car didn't achieve much for color change associated with reactivity. This wasn't a shock since it wasn't many miles ago that the car was cleaned. The car was rinsed and we went to work with the claybar to finish decontamination. To ensure no water or clay lube (rinseless wash with distilled water) remained in the seams of body panels or trim, the car was blown out with the Master Blaster Revolution. Next up, the inside of the car was started. The sidekick was used to blow anything out from under the seats and vacuumed out with the shop vac. The carpets were not finished at this point, but were left for now. The car has a lot of genuine leather inside it. The seats, dash, console, side bolsters and door panels are all leather. These surfaces were cleaned with Leather & Interior cleaner. Once sufficiently cleaned and dry, Leather Conditioner was applied to all surfaces. Any hard surfaces were dressed with Total Interior Detailer and instrument clusters and touch screen were cleaned with glass cleaner. The interior glass was also hit with glass cleaner. Once the interior surfaces were cleaned and dressed, the carpets were sprayed with Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner and extracted with the hot water extractor to ensure they were back to a factory clean look. While the interior was being finished up, one of us started polishing a bit on the back of the car. There were some small swirls from the dealer prior to my purchasing the cars that I wanted to really address. I thought they would come out easily, but I underestimated the hardness of the paint. I wasn't able to take thickness measurements since the body is composite, but since it's my vehicle and I've had it since it was "new" (never registered but had 726 miles on it from going to dealer shows), it's safe to assume the clear coat is in great shape thickness-wise. I started with some Correcting Polish and the Rupes Mini with a microfiber bad. The first time working the polish and there was marginal improvement. It wasn't the total improvement that I was after. I tried again with the correcting polish and had the same result. Slightly better, but I still saw things. Some friends were over as we worked and they couldn't see the issues I saw. But I knew they were there. I'm waiting for my 4" pads for the Heavy Correcting Compound currently, so in the meantime I took my Rupes Nano (shortneck) and went to work with the Heavy Correcting Compound. After working the polish I was finally starting to see what I was after. This was followed by the Mini and correcting polish with a microfiber pad and again by finishing polish using a foam pad. Each step was wiped by microfiber towels so I could really inspect the results. We weren't completely done with the panel at this point. The lowers of the car have clear bra on them. I didn't want to touch the clear bra with a polisher. Instead I took out Revive Hand Polish and the blue applicator and went over the clear vinyl by hand to ensure it was clean and to remove any small blemishes. The vinyl works easily by hand and didn't take long. While the revive was out, I also took it over the panels that I'd done (spoiler, trunk and rear end). This helped bring out that last little bit of perfection and to ensure that the paint would be clean when it is finally prepped for ceramic. While the trunk is open, we will clean inside the jambs and make sure those areas are as flawless as can be. The plan is to use Tire and Rubber Cleaner on all of the rubber seals and to do the engine compartment as this is a rear engine vehicle with the compartment exposed under glass. We have even discussed the idea of laying Ceramic Paint Coating in the jambs so when the car is opened up, there are no neglected areas. We would do the same with the doors and sills as well. This will take some patience and extra prep, but in the overall appearance all opened up it may provide that extra "wow" for those who are sticklers for the details. At this point, the work day ended for us and the car was closed up as we cleaned everything up. We will resume this Friday and again on Sunday (we have time on this one, so it's as we are free to work on it between other jobs and our regular work schedules). Friday will probably consist of more polishing and possibly pulling the wheels for cleaning, polishing as needed and ceramic coating. That will allow them to cure from Friday afternoon until Sunday morning before Ceramic Boost is applied. I'll continue the write up when we do some more work on it this week. For now, here's some photos of what was done. Feel free to provide thoughts on the process or to ask questions. List of products and equipment used: -Strip Wash -Foam cannon -Wheel Cleaner diluted 1:1 with distilled water -Clay -Rinseless Wash diluted with distilled water -Master Blaster Revolution -Shop-Vac -Sidekick -Leather & Interior Cleaner -Leather Conditioner -Total Interior Detailer -Glass Cleaner -Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner -Hot water extractor -Rupes Mini -Correcting Polish -Orange microfiber pad -Heavy Correcting Compound -Rupes Nano Shortneck -Finishing Polish -White foam pad -Revive Hand Polish -Blue applicator -A LOT of various microfiber towels

That's exactly what I was thinking. It doesn't need to be endorsed by Adam's at all (unless they had a vision). Just some people who would be willing to take the time to show someone newer or wanting to expand their skill set the ways. I'd be in for the Connecticut area if anyone wants help!

If you have it, add a few ounces of All-Purpose Cleaner to the soap. It'll have the same effect without some of the negative effects of dish soap. Might be a kinder and gentler option.

I'm surprised at the size of the blue microfiber. I have a set coming next week, but I assumed that as a 4" pad that it would work on the cyclo or mini. I'll be curious what actually does show up and what machines they'll fit on.

Taking it as far as seminars could definitely be a possibility. That would take the involvement of Adam's as well though. I've thought of selling supplies to my clients, but I've not wanted to dabble in keeping "inventory" (which I'd have to pay for up front and hope to sell through). I have enough expense in keeping the products I consume. If I had enough people in my area who wanted to purchase through a dealer, it would definitely be something I'd give consideration to. My initial thoughts were just to help provide the nudge and security blanket for those considering to make the leap to the next level of car care and to make some new friends along the way. By no means is my vision an official one...it was just a thought and this is the think tank to see if it's viable and where we collectively as group would like to see it go (if anywhere).

I don't even know if Adam's needs to consider it an "official" program. It can be something we do ourselves. If Adam's got behind it on some level, that would be great though. Keeping it to a thread that's made into a sticky is a great option. It's a means for people to look and see who's in their area and who they can contact that would be willing to help. I still refer to videos if it's been a while since I've done something or if I'm unsure. And there is a ton of information here to be had. Sometimes there's no replacement for seeing something demonstrated in person. The idea you have of GTG's would fall more along the lines of an "ambassador" program. That would be pretty interesting in concept. The biggest obstacle there is how do you demonstrate proficiency? Through showcasing your work on the forum? Being active here and demonstrating knowledgeable answers? Those are logistics open for discussion. My garage door is always open if anyone is in the area and wants to see anything. I usually have a job booked in somewhere or I'm working on my own vehicle. I'd be happy to help show someone the ropes. Like you said, there's many approaches. None necessarily better or worse than the other.

A discussion over private messages last night got me thinking about some things. It seems it's not uncommon here to find people who want to get into polishing or try polishing for their vehicles. One of the biggest barriers to them taking the leap is a bit of uncertainty of the process. There's a lot of concern about "what if I do it wrong?" or "am I doing it right?" My thought to help ease the jump to the next level for some people was to have a list of people that were willing to take the time to show someone the ropes a bit. The list could be organized by area so you can look up your area and see who's around that's willing. There would be no fee involved obviously for the mentor or mentee. Although I would say it would be nice if after you've worked with someone...they offered to at least buy you a drink. But that's just courtesy. At worst, you spend some time doing a good deed and helping someone. At best, you make a new friend and get to maybe see some cool cars. Anyway, just a thought...and a very rough idea at that.

For light cleaning use regular car soap and light agitation. They will clean right up.

Keep in mind it's unlikely to perform as well as a Rupes or other "top tier" polisher. With a reduction in price comes a reduction in other areas. Is it a tool for the person detailing constantly? Probably a little light duty for that. Is it a tool for the weekend warrior? It's perfectly suited to them! Right tool for the right job with the right user.

Just heard from Ashley and she's pushing it out to the warehouse for me! Doesn't mean I have it for the weekend, but possibly! And you're welcome. And don't forget to post up some photos of your work when you get to use that machine!

I think you'll find the Rupes a much better and easier to use machine than the PC. I tend to polish at speed three or four. I don't use five often since I feel it just spins too fast and doesn't necessarily polish. I'll start slow and then turn it up until I'm seeing the results I'm looking for. There is a point where there is too much speed. When laying down sealant or glaze, I use it on one. I'm hoping it's just a fluke thing that's causing the delay. We will see. Worst case scenario is I can do the prep work this weekend and then leave it ready for coating whenever they get the kits out to me. The only saving thing is that this is for my own garage queen and not a client vehicle. Small victories, or something like that!

If you have a Rupes 15, you can use the 5.5" or the 6" pads with it. I've used both with mine and have had no issues. My machine is a Mark II if it makes any difference (it shouldn't). Interesting you said they aren't answering the phones today. I'd sent an email to them regarding an order and some other questions and haven't received a reply yet. I placed an order Monday morning and was hoping it would have gotten out by now...but it still shows it as processing. Looks like I won't have the product I thought I would for the weekend sadly. Kind of messes up potential plans a bit. Oh well, it is what it is. Just surprised if nobody is there that they didn't put a notice out saying so. I haven't had a delay like this from them that I can recall. Usually it's a day or so max before an order ships. And rarely more than a few hours before receiving a reply to emails.

Keeping your wheels sealed is a big benefit to preventing damage. Or for the most protection, ceramic coat them before you put them on the vehicle.

Totally a great way to justify purchasing such a tool if you ask me.

I believe it's been said that you can use detail spray, but may actually make the coating LESS hydrophobic. I'd stick with the ceramic boost. That stuff makes it so slick.

That looks good. Nice work. You need a nano shortneck to take the die cast model to the next level! It's always about trying to get the next level of shine out of our vehicles. Big or small!

Thanks for the feedback on the Bissell Joe. I referenced it since he mentioned it and I know some people have used them on here. I don't personally have any experience with it, but I do understand that extractors are expensive. I should have added that when I use my extractor (a Mytee), I don't use a carpet shampoo. The hot water alone is often enough to mobilize any stains. If it doesn't seem to work, I'll use carpet & upholstery cleaner sprayed directly on the are and agitate with a brush. I'll steam if necessary. Between the combo, most things are able to be removed.

Revive hand polish is the way for you to go. I'm not sure which pad I'd substitute. The finishing polish you really would have better luck with a machine. If they're light superficial scratches, revive should do it. Or you can get a drill backing plate and get a better cut. But be cautious so you don't burn the clear coat doing that.

Just wanted to say thank you for your service Jason! Awesome career you chose.

Thanks Jason! Appreciate the compliments. It was a pleasure to do the job and to write it up. I'll try to make keep better track of hours next weekend when I do my Lotus. Again, it'll be two of us working on the vehicle. But it'll be a full job where we will pull the wheels off and everything. Another thing...a trim kit will do quite a few vehicles (unless doing an avalanche or something with a very large amount). The wheel kit will do multiple vehicles easily. And the paint kit will do at least two vehicles...possibly three. I was amazed at the amount of coating left with each product. So...you may want to order a couple of extra fresh single soft for buffing off and a couple extra applicators if you think you may do more than one vehicle. I didn't take the chance and tossed the towel and applicator with each step. Another random thought is that the entire front end of that truck is plastic. Big change from the previous version. The interior is way nicer than previous generations. Just random truck thoughts.