Ricky Bobby

You've got the wallet. Get the master blaster and touch it as little as possible.

You've got the wallet. Get the master blaster and touch it as little as possible.

Fellow American Bulldog owner!  People don't realize that our dogs short white hairs are totally different than the longer silkier locks of a golden retriever.
 
My wifes car has beige leatherette and I have to go over it every few weeks - forget about cloth seats or black interiors with an AB

You've got the wallet. Get the master blaster and touch it as little as possible.

I do my wheels/tires completely separately with a bucket of suds and brushes and get them clean, you can rinse them down with the pressure washer if you want if its out.  Then foam up the car and go to town on the paint

FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE:

BigFoot Production Officially Starts in the USA

Longmont, Colorado – July 27th, 2016 - Continuing their commitment to growth in the US market, RUPES announced today the beginning of production for a number of their popular BigFoot electric polishers at their North American facility. This event marks the first time that the primary manufacturing of the class-leading BigFoot tools will occur outside of Italy.

“It’s truly an honor.” says Chip Case, General Manager for RUPES USA. “The investment and the faith in our team here in the US to build these tools shows just how committed to supporting the US market RUPES is.”

Manufacturing tolerances and standards set in Italy are maintained in the Colorado facility, including strict quality control. LHR21ES and LHR15ES tools from the US factory have already begun to make their way into the market with the Mark II versions and other BigFoot models to follow by the end of Q4 2016.

After bursting onto the scene about 5 years ago, the RUPES BigFoot family of tools have become the preferred option for professionals and enthusiasts. With manufacturing of the tools now a reality in the US, the company will be able to provide even higher levels of service and produce tools to meet the ever increasing demand.

RUPES SpA is a one of the leading manufacturers of specialty electric and pneumatic tools as well as vacuum dust extraction systems for a variety of industries including detailing, body shop, industrial, woodworking, and marine.





PRESS CONTACTS:

International -
RUPES S.p.A. Vermezzo (MI) - Italy                            
Francesco Ginocchio | Marketing Manager
E-mail: fginocchio@rupes.it
Phone: +39.02.94694.304       


North America -
RUPES USA, Inc.  Longmont, CO - USA
Dylan von Kleist | Marketing Manager
E-mail: dylanv@rupesusa.com
Phone: +1(970)535-0100 ext 322

Could be. But I only tried TID once. And I did not use it again because on certain plastics it is uneven and/or streaks.
 
I used it on several types of surfaces too. Love the baby powder scent. But IMO it needs to be reformulated to leave absolutely nothing behind. Not even a hint of dressing aspect which I think is the problem.

I do alcohol wipe to clean the surface and help LPS to adhere. (Lubricants from doing clay bar, detail spray from drying...) 
 
Yes, spray a bit of detail spray on wet panel and then dry with GWDT. (I typically prime the towel a bit with a mist of Detail Spray.) The Detail Spray acts as a bit of a lubricant and adds a bit of shine. 
 
I see maybe all of our well intentioned posts perhaps not being the best approach...Adams videos are really good and produced by some really smart folks. Concentrate on them, and maybe ask for a well defined clarification only as needed.
 
Keep it simple at first, like a well executed 2-bucket wash (or a Garry Dean Method) and a Detail Spray/towel dry (or blower if you have one.) When comfortable, add H2OG&G. Later on add a strip wash and LPS imto the mix. And definitely consider replacing some of the 2-bucket washes with waterless or rinseless.  

The other side of the towel is a low tight nap which is great for the final buff on glass - these are great for the people like me who did not like the prior generation glass towels as they would get damp too quick and get grabby on glass, especially inside windshields

^See I'm the opposite, I wasn't a fan of the blue bar at all, however the Visco is a lot better for me as its easier to mold -

I guess at a lower 1.2 gpm its not as much of an issue, and yes you're right much better than the hose spigot, Dan's is on the higher flow side for an electric however.
 
 
Good call - either way it probably makes washing a breeze - I've always wondered on what that would cost from the water company, as I know some water companies you can rent the equipment from them monthly on your bill for not much cost and are only charged for the install and when the resins are changed.  Something to keep in mind - but the CR Spotless is great for what it is and for most of our uses.

Coatings don't need to be topped to begin with.  Guard & Gloss plays well with most coatings.  Reflex is technically a sealant on steroids and not a coating.  Gloss Coat can be topped with your favorite wax. 

Ooops...I did not completely understand the question. I do use only distilled water in the actual solution bottle with the CWS. I thought you were asking about the water running through the pressure washer.

There are a number of knock offs on the market of our BigFoot polishers, pretty much carbon copies under their colored plastics and rubber accents. The difference is that we actually build ours... every component including even the winding of the motor is done in house and based on our design. With the knock offs you're generally looking at a copy that doesn't meet very precise engineering tolerances (because its just a copy) and also uses off the shelf parts from other kinds of tools. With a tool orbiting at such a big distance and high speed the precision and quality of every single component will be stressed to the max - as a percentage of tools in the market we are proud to have EXTREMELY low failure rates because of our level of precision.
 
Why does the motor matter? We tune our motors for the task they're doing. So in the LHR21 or LHR15 for example, the motor is specifically tuned for polishing operations at speeds ideal for that task, designed, built, inspected, and assembled in house. This is why our BigFoot tools we only need to consume 500w of power to out perform the knock offs that use a 900w grinder motor. You can learn more about this in the write up I posted: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/30044-power-vs-consumption-why-bigger-isnt-always-better/
 
Brands that knock off products are about the lowest form of operation IMO. Their low quality copies of precision engineered innovative technology undermine the industry and supporting that kind of action has a detrimental impact that hits vendors, distributors, professionals, and DIY enthusiasts. Support INNOVATION not IMITATION.
 
(for anyone interested in seeing a tiny glimpse of the factory operations Larry Kosilla did a great video on it last year. You should be able to find it on google)
 
Adding to that... earlier this year RUPES shifted production of 120v LHR21ES and LHR15ES tools over to our US facility. This means that at this exact moment BigFoot tools are being assembled right along side Cyclo polishers in our Longmont factory. This has not been made a public announcement just yet as there are other big announcements that will be coupled with it, but I can confidently say now that many RUPES tools are now built here in the USA. This also gives us the ability to provide factory level support for everything we sell. Not some 3rd party tool repair place, so if your tool ever needs to come in for repair it will be done by professionals that build the tools using factory parts and it will be done quickly - usually the same day it arrives here. None of the knock-offs can claim the same and are often pumped out of one of only a handful of the same Chinese factories, just with a different color or shaped plastic on the outside.

But I digress - I'll comment on this as a comparison between the LHR15 and the Cyclo Model 5 Pro as that would be most relevant with those being the tools Adam's stocks/supports:
 
The Cyclo is certifiably the lowest vibration orbital polisher in the industry thanks to its dual headed design. Basically the whole thing is one big counterbalance. This provides the most operator comfort and lowest fatigue. Its also, as far as I'm aware, the last tool in the business that is made using cast metal housings. This only adds about 1lbs of weight over plastic tools, but provides a much higher level of durability. The knock on the Cyclo, if there is one, is the lack of power... its perfect for common swirl removal, but in some cases it will lack the 'oomph' to do more serious defect removal and because of its overall lower operating speeds it can tend to be slower thru a process. I would recommend the Cyclo for anyone maintaining their personal vehicles or who isn't in need of heavy/fast correction work.

NOTE : the Cyclo was a 'bigfoot' even before the acquisition by RUPES - since the 1940's the Cyclo has had a 16mm orbit on each head... thats 2x the orbit size of a Porter Cable, so its correcting power comes mostly from the stroke and not the speed, however both things do play a role.
 
Now the LHR15ES and LHR15II are going to give you the power to take on virtually any level of defect depending on your pad/polish combo. They will have extremely low vibrations levels, honestly the only lower vibration tool is the Cyclo. The higher speeds and torque of the LHR15II mean that at speed 4 you have all the correcting power you need for most jobs, but you can ramp up to speed 5 or 6 when the need arises.
The LHR15 is definitely more of a professional tool capable of heavy correction as well as fine polishing depending on how its used. The ES comes in at a great price point now if you don't need the additional 30% power, but if you do the Mark II provides class leading performance at every single level.
 
Any other questions about BigFoot or Cyclo don't hesitate to ask. Cheers!

I was using cold, deionized water for this first use of the new Adam's Foam Cannon.
 
I had previously run both warm water, and non-filtered water with the MTM, and did not notice much foaming difference.  My water is not overly hard, so somebody with really hard water would likely see different performance with DI vs. non-DI water.

AR makes great washers. Nice pics Dan.
 
For sake of science - I assume you are using warm deionized water in the cannon, and approx 2-3 oz of soap?
 
I will say the purer and warmer (not cold) water used in the cannon also plays a big part of the lather you get in my experience.

Mine is turned about 7/8 of the Max and foams awesome similar to above. Excellent shaving cream. I have an MTM but you can expect similar
 
I use about 2-3 oz and EASILY can foam the complete car twice or three times with one bottle.
 
I bought a Ryobi specific fitting off amazon so I could thread it on my cannon and untwist the wand and then twist lock the cannon on my trigger assembly on my Ryobi. However you can use the wand as it has a standard QC fitting - you just may have to hold the bottle as its heavy when full.

The Ryobi's from Depot are super underrated for the price. Quality pumps, fittings, hoses and motors. And great 3 year warranty. My electric 1700 psi 1.2 gpm is an absolute beast of a workhorse.

The Ryobi's from Depot are super underrated for the price. Quality pumps, fittings, hoses and motors. And great 3 year warranty. My electric 1700 psi 1.2 gpm is an absolute beast of a workhorse.

I came in to post that Dan I hope your dad gets better, praying for your family.
 
Let's MAKE ADAMS FORUMS GREAT AGAIN
 
lolol

Could be after first wash, could be after 5 years -
 
I agree, when they start linting, they become rinseless wash towels or under the kitchen sink towels -
 
Some towels I've washed twice and they were junked, or some I've washed for 5 years
 
Stains mean nothing to me, they come out clean but can remain stained and work just fine

I'm with you - the old towels always dragged for me - waffle weaves were the only ones that worked

You need a foaming tip for that. Kwazar sells one for their Venus bottles.
 
Never hurts to try though. Put some shampoo in and do your own testing and let us know.

4 + 1 is 5 parts - divide 24 by 5 and you get 1 of the parts = 4.8 oz
 
so 4 parts is 4 x 4.8 = 19.2 - remaining 4.8 is the final part = 24 oz

4 + 1 is 5 parts - divide 24 by 5 and you get 1 of the parts = 4.8 oz
 
so 4 parts is 4 x 4.8 = 19.2 - remaining 4.8 is the final part = 24 oz