PHOKUS

Additionally, what Gen Adam's pads were you running? I had a Gen5 pad delaminate at the velcro backing while using Rupes 15MkII on a hot day on some particularly bad paint. It was simply too much heat. I wasn't dealing with residue appropriately, either, which likely contributed to the delamination.

That looks like glass strands. Were they brittle or pliable?

Looks fantastic! Great job, and what a great surprise to come home to!! On the matter of the residue, how many times did you swap pads? I find that on older/more abused cars, the residue management becomes a large factor. The worse the paint, the more pads I swap/clean after several panels. I have found that not only does the correction stage go faster, I work less in the process. And, the most important factor, the residue (if any) comes off MUCH easier. For my purposes, I don't mind spending the extra $100 or so to keep 4-6 MF cutting and Orange pads to get my desired result in less time with less effort.

I am now firmly in the camp of Americana + H20 GG. I used to use Detail Spray as a drying lubricant. However, the net effect was that my car became a dust magnet with the Detail Spray. H20 GG actually seems to repel dust. And layered on top of Americana + Brilliant Glaze, H20 GG seems to be a near-perfect complement.

There are lots of great products out there. I came to Adam's for the quality products and guarantee, and stay because I believe in the company ethos.

I Rinseless Wash for precisely this reason.

To add yet another approach, I have been doing Rinseless washes for the last few weeks and I love it! Less water collects (if any) and I use less water as well. I have tried both Waterless Wash and diluted Rinseless Wash (5:1 Distilled Water: Rinseless) as a pre-treat for bugs and I have found that Waterless does a MUCH better job at breaking up bugs. Even baked on bugs wipe off with very little rubbing required. If you can, buy your towels in bulk. You pay more initially, but the cost per towel is much lower.

Americana + BG is probably the best combination of products I have ever used. Both incredibly easy on and off, and the shine is so intense it almost defies logic. Oh, and the combination of scents between the two are perhaps my favorite of all Adam's products.

I know what you mean about huge cars. My first car was a 1974 Mercury Monterrey 2-dr. It was something like 27ft from stem to stern. ​

Unpleasantly different? Remember, Adam's offers the best guarantee in the business. Your best resource is calling Adam's and explaining the nature of your dissatisfaction.

My Woolie gets used. A lot. Wheels, engine bay, door hinges, grille. Great product.

I'm not gentle on wheels at all. I seal them in the winter when I swap my winter setup in. I seal them again in the Spring when I pull them out. Then I wax them once for the summer. That's it. Wash with shampoo, use Wheel cleaner as needed. Since I switched from the OEM pads to StopTech ceramics, my wheels look clean for weeks. Stark contrast to the OEM pads, which were FILTHY after 5 minutes of driving.

But if the paint was rough and oxidized, the pad will collect residue more quickly. Additionally, the harder the polish and pad have to work, even with fewer passes. I think the lesson here is change pads more often. You'll get better, faster results with less elbow grease to boot.

G&G goes on great after wax. It offers another layer of protection. The question I would be asking is, "Is it worth it?" If this is the question, I would say no. G&G sticks best to other sealants. Putting a sealant on top of a wax significantly reduces the durability of the sealant. That said, G&G is a very effective 'drying agent'. It also attracts less dust than Detail Spray. If you like it, there's no harm in applying G&G over wax other than decreased durability.

Most likely. When lots of correction residue comes up you need to change pads out more often, or spend lots of time pulling residue off panels. For me, my time is worth another $50 in pads to save an hour or more of labor scrubbing on panels. Just remember to soak the pads in a bucket of 50/50 APC or white vinegar while you finish the car. Don't let correction residue dry on pads. It's a pain trying to get them clean. So much so it's almost not worth it.

I edited my post, you should check out what Dylan said regarding the question: How many pads?

Thanks for the great comments, everyone!

Sounds to me like your pad got saturated. I find that if the polish starts becoming difficult to remove I need to switch pads, and all is well again. Likely culprit is either too much product, or a lot of correction residue came off during correction and saturated your pad. Dylan just posted this in another thread two days ago. The thread is How many pads?

So I did a rinseless wash yesterday and finished with Detail Spray. Car looked great. Two blocks away, the city had just finished some utilities work on a busy street and filled in the hole with gravel. Last night prevailing winds carried a blanket of dust over our parking area and there was literally enough dust on the car to take the color from black to slate gray. My 4yo daughter wanted to go for a cruise this evening so we did. We hammered through the blacktops in the area, singing to (her) favorite songs and had an absolute blast. The weather was a perfect 82F, mostly sunny, and gentle winds as the afternoon fell to a golden evening sun. We went by the coin op car wash, and I had my towels and my Adam's kit, so we swung in to blast the dust off and put the car back to black with a hybrid rinseless/pressure wash. We pulled out front and I worked on the paint with some G&G while she worked on the wheels and tires.......in one of her 'princess' dresses. That's my girl!

Leather Conditioner scented TID would be great.

You're correct. Removing some clear to get rid of orange peel leaves a fraction of clear remaining. Obviously some care needs to be taken when doing this. There are lots of reasons to remove orange peel. Not the least of which is because it looks like orange peel.

Nice work!!! Orange Peel isn't too bad to fix, either. Especially with the Rupes. Wet Sand @ 2000 grit until you cannot see the orange peel. Then wet sand at 4000 grit until you cannot see scratches. Then correct w/MF Pad + PCP, move to foam + PCP, then foam + PFP. It'll look like a $20k paint job when you're done.

I don't care for instant chat. It ties up both our time waiting while we render responses to one another. Email is the way to go!