PHOKUS

This is correct. Allowing Americana to cure for 30-60 minutes maximizes its durability, but it's not required to get excellent performance.

I always wash my towels immediately after use, no matter how small a load I have. I need them ready at all times.

If you've got stubborn contamination, use steel wool in combination with a chemical. I would start with mild chemicals, and get more aggressive until the contamination is removed. I *highly* recommend removing any plastic trim around the windscreen, as well as claying once you've achieved contaminant removal Here are a few chemical ideas to get you started: Car Shampoo in a 1:4 mix with distilled water Dawn dish soap All Purpose Cleaner mixed 1:1 with distilled water Simple Green Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol mixed 1:1 with distilled water (be careful here, this will not provide any sort of slippery barrier for the steel wool. Test in a SMALL area first!) If none of these are successful, you might consider that your windshield was chemically damaged in transit. In any case, if steel wool isn't cutting this stuff off, your last hope is to try having your glass polished. There are a variety of purpose-made glass polishing pads and polish.

I own a black car, wash in the sun pretty often, and have never encountered this issue. On good paint, Adam's soap always rinses clean. The only time I get streakiness is on paint with dead/dying clear that's gone porous, or the water I'm using is mineral-rich. If you have hard water, compensate with additional soap. A foam gun or cannon is a great solution. Another great solution is Rinseless Wash. It compensates for hard water even better than Car Shampoo. Good luck!

Note on the Tire Shine that for a duller effect, use a sponge to apply the Tire Shine. Then use a MF towel to buff dry. It gives that new tire look without much shine. And on a CLEAN tire, it will last for a while, usually a couple of weeks. The cleaner the tire, the longer it lasts. And Tire & Rubber Cleaner is the best I have ever used to get my tires clean.

I use TID for "touch" places (door handles, gear shift, parking brake, controls, blinker, steering wheel, wipers, etc) I use LC for leather. I use VRT for everything else (dash, door panels, trim, all plastic surfaces). I love the rich, supple look it gives everything. Your windows from the factory already filter some UV (windshields and moonroofs offer the most built-in protection). Adding UV protective tint on side windows further guards against UV damage. Here are a couple of shots when my car had around 50k miles, using the above methods.

Fantastic effort, sir! Thanks for sharing.

Any fatty-acid-based soap (what most soaps are made of) will do the job. Soap does its job by using hydrocarbon chains to form micelles when exposed to water. The micelles attract and link on to the oils, which link onto the chemicals, which we can now remove from the glass with a towel. Without these micelles, it is VERY difficult to coax the oils, minerals, and chemicals off the glass surface. This is the most likely reason someone is having a difficult time getting their glass streak-free using only Adam's Glass Cleaner. Once these oils have been removed, getting streak-free glass is incredibly easy using Adam's Glass Towel and Glass Cleaner. As some have pointed out, if you have other contaminants on your glass (usually on the outside) you may need to get more aggressive. My method is best applied to the interior side of the glass. Most of us use soap on the outside, so the oils are pretty much a non-issue there. I use Adam's Car Shampoo diluted 20:1 in distilled water. The micelles I noted above are happiest in a mineral-free water suspension and, consequently, when the micelles are happy they are at their peak cleaning power. Edited for clarity.

The reason MBs are run so often is because they are successful! The challenge is how to keep people interested. Leverage social media and allow people to build MBs. Add a button on the shopping cart to "Submit For Mystery Box!" For their participation, they are entered in a drawing for gift cards, product, and grand prize is a visit and on-site detail by Adam himself! Preferably before winter. Two versions, $40 "Mystery Box" which has a guaranteed value of $75, and a $10 "Wild Card" box which could have ANYTHING. Whammy boxes contain sample bottles, air fresheners, mugs, and are limited to ONE BOX​ per customer. So for $50 you get a regular mystery box, and a wild card box. Just a couple ideas I have.

Glass is sort of my forte. I use soap and water with a single soft to clean glass. Then I use Glass Cleaner and a glass towel to make them streak free. Once clean, I maintain with Glass Cleaner. Airborne oils and chemicals adhere to glass. You need soap to get the oils off. Once these are gone, Glass Cleaner will be able to do its job.

Clean debris and dust off the surface first. Spray TID into a clean towel. Wipe the surface. Enjoy the sheen. Enjoy the smell.

I have been one-stepping with PCP for some time now. The biggest improvement for me was the machine. I am on the old formula, so I still have to deal with dusting, but I am quite happy with the results.

Honestly, it sounds like your older tires aren't getting clean enough, and may be exhibiting tire bloom. With T&R Cleaner, it took several bouts of applying/scrubbing to get the tires CLEAN, but when I did they were black as new. I no longer use VRT on my tires, I use Tire Shine, but it lasted for almost three weeks. Including driving through two thunderstorms! It sounds like the stuff you get from work is pretty powerful, but may not be suitable for tire rubber compounds. Using the correct chemical with appropriate elbow grease is the best route to renewing your tires (and pretty much your entire vehicle!).

Let's see some pics when you're done!

I own a black car, and I love the just-detailed look. With black cars, it's ALL about prep and protection. Here's what I do to keep it in tip-top shape. Strip it down to the bare paint using best techniques outlined by Dylan and Adam's videos. Apply two coats of sealant. Apply two coats of Americana Quick wash with Rinseless (There is no such thing as a "Wipe Down" on a black car. The sooner you realize this, the less pain you'll endure) Full wash once or twice a month, follow up with G&G to maintain protection. This provides about 6 months of excellent protection, 9 months if garaged regularly.

Glass Sealant then H20 G&G, then Glass Cleaner when needed. I hardly ever use wipers. Key point, make sure your glass is stripped CLEAN. Might take 4-5 clay bar attempts. Use water to clay glass, not detail spray. Glass doesn't need lubricant like paint does - it's MUCH harder than clearcoat!

Clear coat failure. If you do attempt this, be diligent about residue management. You'll be pulling a LOT...I mean a LOT ​ of dead clear off, which will saturate your pad and it will stop cutting completely. If you don't manage it, you'll get heat buildup and likely trash your pads. There are quite a few good videos out there on compound residue management. Educate yourself before attempting this, and have 5-8 compounding pads ready to go. You'll probably need all of them. Good luck!

Wow. I get almost an entire season out of my glass sealant. Here are a few reasons why I think your Glass Sealant is wearing off too quickly: 1) Your glass wasn't contaminant-free when you applied your sealant 2) You are using your wipers 3) You aren't cleaning your windshield using Adam's Glass Cleaner on a regular basis Reasons 1 and 2 are probably why the sealant seems to wear off quickly. Also, I apply G&G over top of my sealed glass, which seems to lengthen the product life.

WIth the new forumlation of Americana and its easy on/off application, not to mention superior durability, Buttery simply does not measure up. My Buttery goes on the friends' wife's daily.

Hex applicator or machine-applied. The MF applicator soaks up too much product IMO

Just curious on a couple things. Did you mean 1,500 miles, or 15,000 miles? Also, are you using your wipers during these rain storms?

Thanks for the responses everyone. He is going to try melting the wax in hot water tonight. I'll try to get some pics.

I have tried buttery and Americana with machine, it doesn't apply well due to the viscosity change caused by heat. Sealant viscosity doesn't change much due to the heat, making it ideal for machine application. I always remove by hand. Single-softs are my favorite for removal.

While using a machine, if you can see the sealant going on you're using too much. A few small drops per panel is all you need.

My best friend, whom I recently introduced to Adam's, purchased some Americana and he stored it in his garage. His garage happens to get pretty hot. He removed the round label between the applicator and the wax for storage, and it appears about 1/3 of the wax has been absorbed into the applicator. Additionally, the wax inside has retreated from the edges of the container, and the wax is 'loose' inside the container. In case anyone asks, I strongly urged him to store the wax in a cool place - but he did not heed my advice. He now agrees with my advice but wants the remaining wax to "stick" inside the container like it did when it was new. Is it possible to heat the wax inside the container enough to put it into a liquid state to achieve what he wants to do? If so, could somone describe that process? Thanks!