PHOKUS

I suggest you use enough product to "prime" the pad so the polish is worked into every millimeter of the pad. This ensures maximum coverage of the product and maximum efficiency because every bit of the pad is working the polish against the paint. The dot method of applying polish is okay, but you'll get results faster by priming the entire pad.

Agreed. I would strongly advise against touchless washing followed by towel drying. It's guaranteed paint damage. In fact, I would urge you to flip that scenario and say touch wash followed by touchless dry (Master Blaster works great here).

You are seeing swirls immediately after polishing? Or several hours/days later after a hand wash? What Adam's Pad are you referring to? Wash Pad? Lots of missing details here.

Interesting comparison! I, too, have been a fan of Eagle One Tire Cleaner. I also used to subscribe to the viewpoint that the only thing that mattered was results. How does it look the moment after I used it? I now know that there are definitely other considerations to be reviewed. How and where is the product manufactured? How does the surface it's used on react to the product? Will it shorten or compromise the lifespan of the object it's used on? Eagle One tire cleaner was a very harsh chemical. I used Eagle One exclusively because it actually cleaned. However, I would bet dollars to doughnuts that it shortened the lifespan of my tires. After a year of using Eagle One on my new Gatorbacks (hello, '90's !!), the sidewalls were cracking. Luckily, the tires were ready for replacement anyway since the tread was gone. Those findings are far from conclusive. But it follows that after using a harsh chemical on high-end tires for a year the rubber would begin to break down. My point isn't to trash Eagle One, but to submit other criteria for consideration of what makes a product good or bad. I feel that Adam's does their best to strike a balance between highly effective products and surface preservation. I love a clean tire. But at what cost?

I would remove them prior. My last visit to a dealer I trusted wound up with them replacing my wheels. Apparently the old weights used a high-quality glue so they went after it with a flathead screwdriver and gouged the heck out of the wheel barrel.

Fixed.

If my vehicle is dirty enough for detail spray, it's dirty enough to wash. I prefer a 2.1 bucket method (2 buckets for washing, 1 bucket for wheels), but my go-to quick method is Rinseless Wash. Finding new and creative applications for chemicals is what Adam's is about. The latest one is using Brilliant Glaze to clean the interior windows. Or diluting VRT to use as an engine bay detailer. Or mixing Total Interior Detailer with VRT for a shine that's between the matte finish of TID and the slightly glossy finish of VRT. Why experiment? Why not !?!

Those are almost definitely swirls induced by poor washing regimen. Sounds like you take care not to induce swirls, so may have been induced by the previous owner or the dealer. Good news is you're in the right place to assist you in perfecting your paint.

I would have no qualms at all about recommending the SK. Adam's guarantee has you covered. Your thread title mentions Rupes LT and not the MkII. The SK is going to outperform the Rupes LT, though build quality will be slightly higher on the Rupes. You can't go wrong with either machine, but your best value will be the SK.

If you are clear-coating (or painting for that matter) you definitely need to be looking at chemicals designed for plastics. Think hobby shop paints and clears for lexan.

Cure time depends on climate. Temperature, humidity, elevation all play a role in cure times. As a general rule, I find 30-60 minutes of cure time will yield 85% advertised durability. 12 hours should get you to 100% for most folks living in a temperate climate.

My neighbor thinks I'm nuts. Just got done with a Rinseless Wash at 33F, outdoors. God Bless America, indeed.

You're fine to apply VRT to slightly dirty tires. Highly recommend Tire and Rubber cleaner for deep cleaning during washes, if you aren't already.

I applaud this move. The outgoing spray nozzles are large, bulky, fragile, and performed quite poorly with regards to atomization and consistency. Thanks Adams!

It could also be high levels of polymer decay surfacing.

More recently, I have used Tire and Rubber Cleaner instead of APC. They come out looking NICE. Side thought. Wonder how Ceramic Trim Coating would work on Weathertechs....

Original TID is perfect. No changes needed or wanted! For those asking for TID in Leather Conditioner smell, here's a tip: Mix Leather Conditioner with distilled water 60/40. You now have a Leather Conditioner spray solution. Grab a spare bottle and you're set!

Nothing ventured nothing gained. Didn't pay off this time. I honestly don't know what all the fuss is about. If poo eats through clear it must be repaired. No getting around it. Now OP knows this for sure. Find a reputable paint shop and have the hood re-shot. It's the only way to fix it right.

I don't bother cleaning pads during any step. I have enough of each type (6 of each) to simply set the used ones aside and grab a fresh one. Of course this depends on a variety of factors. Not everyone compounds and corrects the same way or on the same budget. I began using the "multi-pad method" for three main reasons: It's faster! Fresh pads always cut faster than saturated ones. Even if you brush, blow, or terry cloth them. Fresh pad = better. I get more consistent results. My pads last longer. The more saturated the pad, the more pressure you'll need, the more product you'll need, and the more your pad gets beat up. If you swap pads right as the current pad is beginning to get saturated, your pad takes less abuse. On a sedan or hatchback, I'll use 3-5 pads per stage. On a van or truck I'll use 4-6 pads per stage. Now, I detail on the side to pay for my Adam's addiction. This allows me to justify the rather large collection of pads I own. It may not be right for you.

Too much moisture in the interior. If your windows are leaking, you need to stop the leak first. The next time you park the car indoors, run a dehumidifier overnight inside the car with the doors and windows closed, every night for a week. This will dry the interior out completely and your interior glass won't fog up any more.

Just watched the series. Great job Adam's Crew!!

I really think you'd be okay. But I totally understand where you're coming from. One other option you could try is Adams Heavy Correcting Compound. I have yet to try this particular version, but it might just do the trick.

Most factory clearcoats are between 15 and 25 microns. Bird poo etching typically goes no deeper than 1-5 microns. At worst OP is likely looking at 8-10 microns of clear left even if he over sands a little.

Trevor's correct. Wetsanding is the best option based on that photo. If the Rupes didn't take it out, you'll have to get super aggressive with a drill and you'll build up a lot of heat in the process. Just wetsand with 2000 until the mark disappears, move to 3000 until the marks from the 2000 disappear, then polish. Whole thing might take 10 minutes.

Spray Dye is what you're looking for. Thoroughly​ clean the carpet. Preferably with a steam cleaner and remove as much of the offending stain as possible. Spray the dye on and work it in with your fingers (latex gloves are handy here). Using a hair dryer or a heat gun set on low, dry the dyed areas while working the fabric with your gloved fingers. Finally, let it sit for 8 hours or so, then clean it again with upholstery cleaner and warm water. Use a junk towel to wipe the residue..