tmevilsizor

Hey Jeremy,

     I have both and honestly I'm surprised at how much I reach for the foam gun. I bought the premium foam gun and foam cannon around the same time. The foam cannon is a much better performing tool in regards to the amount of foam and the thickness of foam that it provides. The premium foam gun still puts out enough foam/suds to properly lubricate the vehicle before touching with my wash mitt. 

     Those facts being said, I always plan on getting the pressure washer out and hooking up the foam cannon. That plan doesn't happen most of the time. I tend to reach for the foam gun a vast majority of the time I wash. It's just quicker and easier to use. Both are great products, but if you're anything like me, you will find yourself reaching for the foam gun more often. Plus, when your vehicle is detailed with Adam's Polishes products, the foam cannon tends to be overkill to use for a weekly wash.

Welcome! It always makes everything easier if the Wife/Significant Other is on-board. Although I find it pretty easy to justify when she comes home with a Michael Kors bag and tells me that it was "on sale". I can simply remind her that I bought my Adam's products "on sale". Again, Welcome to the Adam's Addiction Network!

You may not others do lol, it would be good for where they over apply product and the can't get it off,they can use spray wax to help re moisten the sealant or paste wax they have over used.

 

 

I have the problem of getting the NEW sealant off the paint. It's been discussed over on another thread. However, to address the issue that you stated, Adam himself suggests using the Ceramic Boost to assist in the removal.

Then just call in and get a fresh bottle.

I did contact Customer Service. Bianca asked Adam directly. He recommended only leaving on for a panel and then wipe away. Adam also recommended using the Ceramic Boost to help remove (instead of detail spray). After using Adam's method of very short dwell time and the Ceramic Boost, I must say that it is MUCH easier to remove. Even though I never had this issue with the OLD sealant, I do like the protection that it adds over H2O G&G. My personal car is Ceramic Coated so it doesn't effect me, but I have been using the sealant on family members vehicles. The protection is worth the slight hassle I guess.

I never used the old formula, but I have had no trouble with the new formula by hand or machine. YMMV

So I guess that you can't really compare...

I agree, I wouldn't "DEW" this

I also agree. Don't DO the DEW!

On a serious note... There are so many particulates in the air that also reside in the DEW. You run the very high risk of damaging your paint while attempting. Just not worth the paint risk.

I bought the smaller backing plate for my FLEX 3401. They made a smaller BP that works great with 5.5" pads. Unfortunately Adam's doesn't sell this smaller BP. You can find them online at multiple sources. Just a suggestion. 

Sometimes when you use to much product, it makes it more difficult to remove. When you have a removal problem it's a simple fix, use any kind of spray wax, to renew the LPS, and it will wipe right off with no problems at all. You can also use adams detail spray it works miracles too.

 

 

I have no idea how you did it? Maybe I received a bottle from a bad batch? 1 of the 3 times I applied was relatively humid, so I did attribute the difficult removal to the humidity. However, the other 2 remaining times were applied on low/non-existent humidity days to cool paint with a bare paint surface. All trials similar to old formula, but without the ease of removal. Americana is a breeze to remove, so isn't the old formula Paint Sealant. The NEW paint sealant looks just as nice as the old formula, but is so difficult to remove. I even tried the detail spray trick, but it made the surface more tacky and still just as hard to remove. I wish I could still use their old formula.

I did already state earlier that I tried using the detail spray and it didn't help at all. I have used this in the past for another brands products and made removal easier. The detail spray didn't make it any easier to remove the Sealant from the paint. I applied very thin (Same application format as the OLD). The advantage of AP Sealant is that it is quick to apply and to remove. No machine is required for application (wasn't for the OLD formula either. I must state again, I AM NOT using too much product. The thinner the layer the better, but it is still not coming off easy.

Less is more when it comes to wax & sealants. I think maybe you guys that are having trouble are apply too much. When I apply by machine I can lay down a super thin coat that wipes off very easy. Thoughts?

I understand and I agree. When I used the OLD sealant I applied very thin and came off very easy. I have applied the NEW using the same philosophy "Less is More" but it still comes off difficult. I have used both versions. I have applied using same methods. I have detailed MANY vehicles. My NEW sealant ISN'T the same as the OLD. Comparing apples to apples on application methods, the NEW is just so much harder to remove. 

The way just do it is by applying thinly with a microfiber pad. Once I've done 2 panels, my wife starts wiping off the sealant with a triple soft, trying to stay about 2 panels or more behind me. I've never had a problem with Paint Sealant removal.

I too have tried the quick removal method with the NEW. It doesn't come off any easier than waiting 1+ hours. I'm seriously thinking that I received a bad bottle. Never had any of these issues with the OLD.

I thought the newest version went on and off smoother than ever, and I applied in a garage on a relatively humid Florida day.

I have no idea how you did it? Maybe I received a bottle from a bad batch? 1 of the 3 times I applied was relatively humid, so I did attribute the difficult removal to the humidity. However, the other 2 remaining times were applied on low/non-existent humidity days to cool paint with a bare paint surface. All trials similar to old formula, but without the ease of removal. Americana is a breeze to remove, so isn't the old formula Paint Sealant. The NEW paint sealant looks just as nice as the old formula, but is so difficult to remove. I even tried the detail spray trick, but it made the surface more tacky and still just as hard to remove. I wish I could still use their old formula.

I applied by hand. It so easy to apply by hand, no point in machine application. I applied an entire bottle over many cars with the old formula. I know how thin to apply it. The new stuff doesn't wipe off nearly as easy. I love all my Adam's products, but I'm just not thrilled with the newest version of the Paint Sealant.

Hello Adam's Addicts,

I have the previous formula of the LPS and love it. I am getting low on my bottle. I ordered the NEW formula a few weeks ago. I have now Strip Washed, Clayed, and IPA wipe down on 3 separate vehicles in 3 different humidity/heat levels (ALL INSIDE A GARAGE). I never had any issues with the old formula wiping off. I could wait an hour or 24 hours and was super easy to wipe off. I'm having very difficult removal issues with this new formula. I've tried different wait times (1 hr. 3 hrs. and 24 hrs.) and not having an easier time removing. Does anybody else seem to be having the same issue with this NEW formula?

Welcome to the Forum! It's always nice to see another Tyler on here.

Thank you very much for your service my good sir

I work for a company who produces door panels and such. The faux leather you are referring to is actually coated urethane. It's everywhere in almost all vehicles. Most car manufacturers that have leather material only use it for the center portion of the seats. The rest of the interior is coated urethane. So the moral of my story, it's safe to use ANY of the Adam's interior products on EITHER material. Most people have a difficult time picking out the genuine leather vs the coated urethane. You're safe to use Adam's on both materials. As always, try a test spot somewhere inconspicuous. Good luck. Enjoy that new ride!

Welcome! I love Nashville! This addiction is expensive. Just a friendly reminder before you go head first off the deep end like most of us. 

haha the yellow poop is bee poop. I learned that not too long ago lol. 

 

To be honest tho, if your goal is to correct the paint, then there really is no point in stressing about protecting the car. Youre going to fix it anyway. However, once you finish correcting the paint, thats when I would really want to give it a coat of sealant or wax. Only because you want to make your hard work last longer.

As mentioned, most clearcoat is very strong and it takes a long long time of abuse for it to start fading out. It wont happen in a day or even a month. Usually takes years of neglect. Even on 120+ weather.

Can we just take a minute to talk about the yellow poop?! Is that what that crap (pun fully and intentionally intended) on my car is? I have these little elongated pieces of yellow that stain my white car in just a few hours. 

Bump... Nobody has a blue bucket for trade??

I'm not a huge Ford fan. I will be the first to admit that. Your Mustang looks gorgeous though! Maybe I do have a soft spot for Ford after all! Great job man! It looks great! The YELLOW really pops...

I have immediately put the Swirl Killer I received to good use. My parents have always said that I do the best detail work (they may be a little partial I know). I decided to help me Father yesterday and polish the side of his truck he wasn't happy with. I brought my Flex and my Swirl Killer with me to his place. I showed him the difference between the two machines and how one is for HEAVY cutting and the other machine is for super smooth and easy polishing (SK). He decided to break out some 2000 grit sandpaper and use it on some really bad paint touch-ups that the previous owner slapped on the front of the hood. Keep in mind that he has NEVER color sanded. I handed him the SK and let him cut/polish.

I am very proud of my Father for attempting to fix on his own. He actually did a great job. His technique is improving greatly. He has done a little body work in the past, so he understands keeping the pad flat to the paint. His biggest problem is SLOWING DOWN. He wants to buff too quickly and I am trying to teach him to slow down and let the machine do the work.

My Mother came down to our second garage where the buffing/teaching was taking place. I thought it was a great opportunity to show her the difference between the 2 machines. She thought the SK was much smoother and definitely easier to handle than my POWERHOUSE (Flex) machine. Her form is also getting better. Her biggest issue is keeping the pad flat. She's working on improving.

They both need to learn to KEEP THAT CORD OVER THEIR SHOULDER! It's a learning curve to cut/polish. I don't have any pictures of the before/after, but I did capture my Father and my Mother polishing. Enjoy these (swirl)"killer" action shots.

I stumbled upon Adam's polishes last year. I used to use CG products before coming over to the Adam's Family. I now have my Father going to work and instead of talking about CG products,(because that's all I knew)is now telling everyone he works with about Adam's Polishes. He has even referred a few people to the website to shop. One guy in particular asked him about a good wheel cleaner to use on his wheels. My father told him "Adam's Polishes"!

THANK YOU ADAM'S FAMILY

P.S. I don't know why the pictures keep turning sideways.

Would anybody like to trade their Blue bucket for one of the limited edition 3.5 gallon Red buckets? The Red bucket has a grit guard and a hard lid for sitting. Just throwing this option out there if anyone would want to trade.

I don't think anyone that is using a wax should be overly concerned with longevity.  Chances are if you are using a wax you are either going to be the type of person that regularly maintains and won't have to worry about it or you are putting it on a non daily driver so it will last a considerable amount of time.  If you are looking for something that is going to have good longevity then why not use a sealant or coating?

My car is already ceramic coated. I have that DD issue taken care of. I am going to detail my mother's SUV. I'm putting down a layer of Sealant, Brilliant Glaze, and then Americana. (I actually e-mailed customer service about my most recent order of LPS because I just received the old formula that smells like black licorice instead of the NEW and improved formula which smells like coconut. Just waiting on a response now.) It will be protected for the longer term by the Sealant. For the Interim term, Americana will provide moderate protection, but should make the white pearl paint POP. I asked about the NEW Patriot only because there is no mention on the durability compared to Americana. I'm going to assume it's nearly the same.

I personally own a Flex 3401. The original backing plate CAN'T be used with 5.5" pads. I was able to order the smaller backing plate that Dan mentions. Flex makes this smaller plate and is sold under the Flex name. Functionality of the smaller backing plate is equal to the original, except the advantages of a smaller pad! It's relatively cheap (considering the price of the Flex) to change to the smaller backing plate. Heck, the savings from buying 5.5" pads over 6.5" pads will pay for the backing plate quickly. I hope this helps you.

I know that Adam's released a new formula of Patriot Wax a little while back. It is a new formula and has a small amount of SiO2 (which is Silica) in it. I have yet to try this formulation as I still have Americana.

What is the longevity of the NEW Patriot wax? Will it be similar to the newest revision of Americana? Thank you in advance!

It's a full gallon, haven't take any out of it. 

I missed out on the limited supply that was released last week. I'm really hoping it will be re-released in the fall. I don't have much of anything in excess to trade right now. If you still have it in a few weeks, I'll hit this thread back up!