falcaineer

Yes! APC and some corresponding brushes. And when you have baked on soot, #0000 steel wool (find it at Home Depot, for example) with APC. Follow up with Metal Polish 1 & 2, or One Step Metal Polish, and a microfiber applicator pad to polish to a great shine! Be forewarned, the applicator pads will turn really black so be prepared to use more than one and you may need to toss them after unless you clean them well and dedicate to metal.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-metal-polish-16oz-combo

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-one-step-metal-polish

First, welcome! 

Yes, in general gel coats are more difficult to work with than clear on a car. Some people use rotaries to get the job done. After polishing, simply follow with Surface Prep like on clear coats and apply the coating as normal. Vertical surfaces will not be any different. Longevity, however, should not be expected to reach the same timeframes as on a car.

Welcome to our forums!

Since you're looking to expand your skills, I highly recommend you check out our Shine Academy. We've had over 300 students from around the world attend, including some members on here, and based on their consistent feedback I promise it's worth the trip and investment! Oh, and I'm one of the instructors 🙂

PS @RayS Let Mary know you should come, too!

My recommendation is not to change anything. They're both optimized for washing a car and will work perfectly well for your needs, including coated.

8 minutes ago, Brooks said:

How to use Adam’s car shampoo

 

Directions should be on the bottle, but maybe I don't understand your question. What questions do you have about using it?

Hey, Matt! It's Chris... Welcome to the forums! Really enjoyed having you in the Shine Academy class the past weekend 👊🏼

If I were you, I'd still polish and then use the prep, just to ensure all wax is fully removed. Also, be sure to mount and balance the tires first, if needed, otherwise if the wheels are coated the weights won't stick.

Coating prep was updated to Surface Prep and the formula was changed slightly, but it'll still work.

By the way, Waterless Wash will be more than sufficient to clean them, you don't need to use a hose and bucket. Hopefully you have some but if not, order it!

Awesome! I was there so may very well have helped you. The cars look great! Stop by anytime you're near us, be happy to help.

Welcome to our forums! Per our forum rules, please note external links to non-Adams products are not allowed, nor is excessive discussion about them. That said, we can certainly help you with the process. Here's a video with our products and advice on how to beat address your issues. Let us know what other questions you have.

6 hours ago, LT1xL82 said:

I'd really like to hear your opinion on how much squeegee/drying, if any, is needed to be spot-free. 

Assuming your water reads at 0.0, you can let the car air dry completely without risk of water spots. That's the beauty of it!

51 minutes ago, Marshall said:

Thanks Falcaineer. The unit from Adams I'm considering is the Standard Portable Spotless Water Deionizer. The bypass valve here is a huge advantage in my opinion. Just trying to decide if I want to add another "device" to my wash process. From what I mentioned above, I'm hoping I'd get a good bit of life from the resin before having to change it out? Welcome to all opinions here.

There used to be a chart on the website showing estimated usage but I can't find it now. If you save it for the final rinse, I think it's safe to assume you'll get dozens of washes with it, but that is determined by the hardness of your water and how long you're running it to rinse. For example, the Adam's 2.0 pressure washer is 1.4 GPM, so if you rinse for 2-3 minutes that's only a few gallons of water.

If you struggle with hard water spots, the Deionizer is the tool for you. You can always get more resin when it's time.

Wool generates a lot of heat, too.

3 hours ago, chops1sc said:

Look for a tool rental place near you and they should have scaffolding for rent. Then you would just work your way down the roof. That is how I would attempt it.

+1. Not sure about how tall you are or how much of a reach you have, but most benches are relatively short and ladders can be cumbersome. That's a pretty tall vehicle and you don't want to be hampered by your ability to reach all areas. Good luck, and let us know what you choose to use...

First, welcome! Honestly, there are much better methods to use before something that could mar the surface like newspaper. And as said above, it looks like they're still there so I'm not sure what you're proposing, either. Can you help explain? Would love to learn what you have in mind.

2 hours ago, essdee said:

@falcaineer I had a question regarding the video, at the end it was said you can use the graphene spray to remove the coating. Is that really removing the coating or just the high spots? Because I would like to try that first before polishing and other steps. Also in my case would that even be applicable or I would need to polish it. Please do let me know. Thanks in advance.

Only the high spots, not the coating. The general rule is to start least aggressive, so you're on the right track with using that early in the process.

No issues from my perspective, go for it! I do agree with @RayS to coat before install, it will be easier.

First, welcome to the forum!

High spots are possible, even for people that have done coatings forever. Seeing them when it's overcast or in low light situations is also common, and even more so on dark colored cars. Guessing yours is black or dark? They won't go away on their own, at least not anytime soon. But don't worry, all is not lost.

Here's a video with some guidelines, don't necessarily pay attention to the timelines as much as the steps.

14 hours ago, The Guz said:

 

The product page states 12-18 months.  Most longevity claims use the word up to.  If the vehicle is exposed to harsh elements then expect that durability to be cut almost by 50%. 

Well said. Too many factors to list that can affect longevity and it should only be looked at as an estimate. There is also some marketing involved.

I'll also add that I think sometimes too much stock is put into longevity, and especially when it comes to coatings. Proper routine maintenance is still required, even for "lifetime" coatings. When performance drops, several options should be considered, up to and including removal and reapplication.

5 hours ago, Johnny said:

Start over on a product that should last 18 months? Seems like a strange suggestion.

 

 

That's my suggestion since nothing else seems.to be working, yes. And longevity is only an estimate, not a guarantee. Like I said, many factors are in play that could affect it. It could also be the coating on the sides wasn't applied the same leading to different performance over time. If you don't feel like doing it all now, work panel by panel over a few days or even weeks. Compound and blue foam pad should remove it, then Surface Prep it and reapply the coating. As much time as you're investing in it trying to fix it, you could just redo it with a little more time and be happier. But it's your decision.

On 2/10/2024 at 12:39 PM, The Guz said:

Sounds like it is time to reapply the spray coating.

I was about to say the same thing, lots of factors go into the longevity, might be time to start over.

I've actually had really good luck with the product and its ease of use. What prep did you do beforehand? Was the windshield by chance already pitted? 

11 hours ago, -=Jeff=- said:

Yeah that will be the route I go. Not needed yet although the 25% off right now is a good deal

That's about as high as you'll see all year. Don't forget the pads!

1 hour ago, -=Jeff=- said:

Ah so that is the difference.. that helps. I am looking for it to be the middle machine. I bought a 15mm pro last year along with the micro. (Which is great). This would round out the middle for things the other 2 cannot do

Spend a little extra on the Pro, you won't look back! Trust me.