Welcome!

In addition to the info above where @RayS has tou covered, here's more just in case.

https://adamspolishes.com/pages/wheel-and-tire-cleaning-detailing-guide

It's not recommended, it's an exterior coating. Use this instead.

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adams-uv-leather-vinyl-coating

I would recommend Strip Wash and clay (and Detail Spray to lubricate).

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-strip-wash

https://adamspolishes.com/products/adam-s-visco-clay-bar

A good way to tell in the meantime is if while polishing it the pad turned the same color, you likely burned it. 

Agreed a pic would help, but if it is, sadly nothing will fix it but a repaint. Standing by...

Assuming proper prep and a full, even application, one layer is sufficient. With ceramic coatings, the law of diminishing returns applies - adding 2+ layers does not equate to 2x+ protection. Use the UV light to make sure you did a full application and you'll be good. That said, if you still decide to apply 2 layers, wait 1-2 hours in between layers max. The second layer will be easier to remove because the bottom layer will essentially reject much of the layer above it.

Some color variations can happen during manufacturing and bottling, you should be fine.

First, welcome!

You're fine, it didn't strip it and would take a machine polisher to do so.

Thanks. As mentioned, I think you should start over using the steps above. Could be that particular interior doesn't respond well to the cleaner you used. Let us know how it goes.

6 hours ago, goshnmedia said:

I can say from experience that 15 minutes is far TOO long for the advanced. At least on gel coat surfaces. I just have to goo gone all of it off my boat and start over. Not happy at all for wasting $50 on this advice. Do small sections ... wait for flash and then wipe off like normal. 15 minutes ...NOPE. Maybe 55 degrees if 55 degrees outside or higher.

Goo Gone will not remove a coating, you'll need to use a machine polisher.

First, welcome!

As this is an Adam's forum, we will focus on what products of ours could help. It's possible the plastic is simply dry and the streaks are the dry vs. not so dry areas. My recommendation is to try and start over, stripping down the previous products. Use something like All Purpose Interior Cleaning Gel or Leather and Interior Cleaner, then top with Interior Detailer or even Leather Conditioner to rehydrate and protect.

Also, pics could help so please post some, if available.

This should help answer that and more!

Enjoy!

2 hours ago, Stugots777 said:

 

yes I shaked the bottle really well.....well lets put it this way, i am wearing black latex gloves and when i touch the application to feel for some sticky, the glove does not stick to it, it slides. i am assuming with some latex the glove would stick as i pulled away. dont get any of that, i touched it every minute for 10 minutes and nothing. 

There's the issue. Use a plush towel instead, a Borderless Grey Lite towel works really well. When you lightly drag it and it's slick, it's too soon. When the fibers start to grab, that's when it's ready. Depending on temps and humidity, the higher they are the faster it'll start to happen.

4 hours ago, snovvman said:

 

Thank you.  That helps.  When you say "since the others are great options as-is", do you mean the G Boost, GCS3, and GDS?

Yes, those. Sorry for the confusion.

2 hours ago, snovvman said:

 

Thanks for your reply.  I fully understand that the base layer needs to be on a bare surface.  My initial layer Advanced Graphene Coating was on a stripped washed, prepped, IPA'd surface.  I also get that 2+ coats does not give 2x the protection.  I am asking exactly about your point--the sacrificial layers.  For the most part, I see using CS3 or boost depending on situation.  They are both water-based.  If one day I have more time, can I use the solvent-based Advanced Graphene Spray on top of CS3 or boost?  Will the solvent-based product be counterproductive because I already used the water-based product on the top surface?

 

We know that the solvent-based Advanced Graphene Spray offers more durable protection than CS3, so if I had the time and product, could I use them interchangeably as toppers?  Again, the root of the question is whether a solvent-based graphene product can be layered on top of a water-based product.  I imagine that once any product is fully cured, it would not matter, but I want to confirm.  Thanks.

Ah, gotcha. The spray coating won't really work with the other layers in between, nor frankly as well as it could even if right over top of the base layer only (assuming everything else was stripped off or otherwise gone). Will it hurt? No. But in my opinion not really worth your time or effort since the others are great options as-is.

7 hours ago, snovvman said:

 

@falcaineer , another question for you and/or your chemist--Assuming the product is fully cured each time before the next product is applied, are there any issues interlayering graphene products that are water-based and solvent-based?  For example, if one applied the Advanced Graphene Coating (solvent), then uses CS3 for maintenance (water), then use Advanced Graphene Spray (solvent), etc. would that be counterproductive in any way or cause any of the products to not function as well as intended?

 

The question may sound silly, but sometimes there is more leisure to apply a more time consuming/demanding coating (typically solvent-based) while other times only a quick application.  I am curious to know if I can mix-match products as time permits.  Again, assuming they are fully cured before the next layer.  Another way to answer the question is whether it is okay to put solvent-based on top of water-based (since we know it's common to use water-based on top of solvent-based as maintenance).

 

Thanks!

The coatings need a bare surface to properly bond. Even layering them 2+ times does not give 2x+ protection. You can layer the water-based ones as they're designed to be sacrificial layers anyway. In other words, keep the true coating as your base, use the others as your maintenance.

I'm not at liberty to release the percentages/amounts, but from highest to lowest, the order is Graphene Boost, GCS3, and finally GDS. Hope that helps!

11 hours ago, snovvman said:

 

Thank you.  Between the Graphene Detail Spray and graphene CS3, do you happen to know which product has the more of the resin/graphene ingredients for better durability/protection?  Also, I presume Graphene Boost has the most resin/graphene out of the three products?

I'll ask our chemist, more to follow 

1 hour ago, jvanwinkle2 said:

This is the other one I was looking at. 

 

Adam's UV Paint Ceramic Coating Complete Kit - 9H Ceramic Coating Kit W/UV Flashlight | 5+ Years of Protection 

Go with Graphene Ceramic, it's better, lasts longer, and is simply a great coating.

12 hours ago, jvanwinkle2 said:

Thanks for the info. I had watched the Graphene video detailing the differences. But didn't mention the uv paint ceramic. Was hoping I could find a video of all the ceramics that are offered. Bought a new car so very little correction needed. Doing a ceramic coat after some pff films go on. 

The original Ceramic Coating isn't offered anymore anyway, Graphene all the way!

The Graphene Ceramic Coatings are the highest end coatings Adam's carries. Here's more on the differences.

https://adamspolishes.com/pages/whats-the-difference-between-graphene-and-traditional-ceramic-coatings#

Sorry, Dan, not sure I completely understand your question. Are you looking for a way to make the coated wheels shine more, or the aluminum ones? Or something else?

No, ceramic coatings need a bare naked surface to properly bond. With coatings 80%+ of the job is in the prep to get the best results.