falcaineer

11 hours ago, Redbeard said:

Sorry for the delay; work and weather have thwarted my detailing plans. I did get a chance to hit a spot with some polish on my drill attachment and it looks like that's going to do the trick. Does that indicate this is some sort of marring on the clearcoat?

Could just be residue, maybe marring. Hard to tell but if polishing is working, keep it up! Just be careful using the drill attachment as that can generate heat quickly risking damage.

Of those you listed, here's the order:

Clay Bar

One Step Polish

Surface Prep

Coating

Graphene Detail Spray (after 6 hours minimum following coating, and then to maintain)

For more on the process, read this: 

TRC is ideal, I would not use the Wheel & Tire Cleaner. Do you have Eco APC? If so, I'd recommend that as an alternative.

I'll let the man himself explain...

So I love the 15mm. But for all around, get everywhere detailing, it's hard to beat the 12mm. It will take you longer, but it simply gets into places and areas the larger ones can't.

I can tell you Adam's personal favorite is the 12mm SK Pro, he also takes his time detailing over weeks to months on the same car. Hell correct on panel, then come back and do another in a week or two, and so on.

If you have and don't mind taking the time, get the 12mm.

We don't handle orders on here, please contact our customer service team, orders@adamspolishes.com or 866-965-0400 for assistance.

Welcome, Alan!

27 minutes ago, bosco1 said:

Do you just use the Surface prep to clean the plastic/vinyl areas then coat? Guess there will be no rainbowing on these surfaces. 

Before the Leather and Vinyl Coating on the seat, no, just clean, dry and apply. Before the regular Graphene on other surfaces, yes.

Yes, safe for those surfaces and same process as on a car. Just understand if you polish that gel coats generally need more effort compared to your typical clear coat, it's usually a harder surface. For the seat, consider the Leather and Vinyl Coating instead. Don't expect the same longevity for either one on the jet ski, though.

23 hours ago, snovvman said:

 

Thank you for your reply.  I always thought it would be a diminishing return, if any return at all.  The way I saw it, once the first coat cures, it becomes very slippery and any subsequent coat will just slip off.  However, I've read about, and have been told that there is *some* benefit, perhaps 30% or so from a second coating (not spray).  How, then, is this possible?

 

I got both the coating and spray.  From the sounds of it, if I am willing to go through the pain of a more difficult application with the coating, there is no reason to keep the spray?

It's cost/benefit. If you're willing to put in the time needed, there may be some benefit. But it's certainly not the full value of one solid layer. Plus, adding a thinner layer like spray coating results in an even thinner layer that may provide a little extra benefit. Is that worth it to you? If so, there's no harm, just no real benefit, either. Instead, I'd recommend going with the maintenance process like @The Guz linked above.

Check this out

Assuming that the coating is properly applied, and the right prep work done beforehand as well, one layer of the Graphene Ceramic Coating is sufficient. When layering ceramic coatings, the law of diminishing returns applies and adding 2+ layers does not equate 2x+ protection. The coating essentially rejects itself. Instead to maintain, use any of the graphene lineup products.

Yes, all would work. But of those, my preference is actually one you didn't list, Interior Detailer. As a spray, you can use it over the entire engine bay after cleaning and (mostly) drying, and simply close the hood. It'll dry and self level, requiring only a quick level if any and leaves an incredible finish.

The Advanced will rainbow, but that's not the indicator of when it's time to remove like other coatings. Instead, that rainbow will dissipate and turn chakly, and the surface will become tacky when you lightly drag a towel over it. At that point, remove it. On PPF, though, you should remove sooner to avoid those high spots. I do so on about 30-45 seconds or so regardless of environment conditions.

5 hours ago, MadMartigan23 said:

How is Adam's APC as a pre-wash/soak product?  Does it actually clean like a Bilt Hamber Touchless type product?  

It's a strong degreaser and a few ounces in your wash bucket will help strip wax, sealants, etc. But we also have Strip Wash that is designed to do the same and safely. Neither are touchless.

10 minutes ago, Archerfish said:

What do you mean by heat? I didnt know it needed to be heated. I was going to do a  practice run on my old SUV first before trying the boat. You you mean the polisher needs to be sped up to heat the application?

Sorry, meant you'll need to get the surface warmer than the normal car paint to make needed correction. You can do that by working in smaller areas, more pressure, and/or speeding up the machine. You can also try using One Step pads and Compound.

5 hours ago, Archerfish said:

Just checking because it pretty much never mentions it anywhere. I just would hate to find out the hard way. Going to get a bottle this weekend.

I assure you it's fine! I teach our professional coating classes, and know people who use it regularly on boats. Polishing will be more difficult on gel coats, though, they typically need more heat and smaller areas.

24 minutes ago, Archerfish said:

Is it safe to use on a  fiberglass boats gelcoat?

Absolutely 

12 hours ago, JPunisher said:

Great video.  Thanks.  What is the prep for door jambs and tail lights.  I would assume the dealership applied Cilajet to those areas.  Do I just polish the tail lights and manually polish door jambs and crevices?

Same prep for those areas.

Polishing was going to be my question too. Can you take a close-up?

Check this out

How long ago did you apply it? You can also try Brilliant Glaze, or even Polish on a plush microfiber towel or white pad/by hand before using a machine.

This is another Can vs. Should scenario. While you can and it won't hurt the coating,.there are much better options to that are made to coincide with and enhance the coating vs. detracting from and inhibiting its overall performance.

This is a classic Can vs. Should. Adding a ceramic coating over anything other than a bare naked surface, including another layer of ceramic coating, will reduce the longevity and effectiveness. Recommend you use something else to polish the surface if you want to use any of the coatings.