joelilton23

I recently went to "The Container Store" in town and picked up a few locking weather tight bins to store and organize my towels, etc. The larger ones are 19 quarts and the smaller ones are around 9 quarts.  I posted the link below for anyone interested. 
Over the Winter, I'll add an Adams sticker to each bin along with P-Touch or Avery labels to help identify the contents. Eventually they'll be stored on a yet-to-be-purchased shelf unit in the garage. I'll probably also pick up (2) more of the smaller bins to store my MF applicators and the rest of my foam applicators. 
 
Consider it a work in progress.
 
https://www.containerstore.com/s/garage/storage-bags-boxes/clear-weathertight-totes/12d?productId=10026213
 

When polishing you usually want a faster speed. I’m not sure of the settings on the SK machines, but on our Rupes we are usually between 3.5-5 for a speed setting. The final setting varies based on the polish and pad combo being used. Sometimes the lower side of fast will give a better cut since the polish can do the work with less heat buildup. 
 
As far as arm speed goes, use a similar motion to correcting polish. After a few uses and experimentation, you’ll figure out the best combo for you and your equipment. 
 
Youll want to work in a cross hatch pattern as described and you’ll want to work the polish until it flashes and becomes similar in nature to Vaseline. We usually work a small section that best represents the overall condition of the car to really get a feel for what processes are needed (or more importantly not needed) before tackling the whole vehicle. This way we don’t overwork an area that doesn’t need it. If we have a particularly damaged area, we can go after that area only with more aggressive techniques. 
 
Good luck!  You’re about to take your weekend warrior to the next level. 

One more using a Porter Cable, around the 4:35 point, he uses speed 1 to spread, then appears to turn it up all the way to polish. And yes, cross-hatch pattern with the FP as when correcting.
 
 
 

Hey, Joel. I don't know of a video with the SK either, but at about the 12-min point in this one with the Cyclo, Adam says speed 6. That indicates to me a faster speed setting is better.
 
 

Let’s see. Where to begin with all of these questions. It sounds like you have limited experience with detailing, and also in detailing for dollars. My biggest word of caution to you is to not overstate your ability to a client. Some of the questions you ask make me wonder how much time you’ve spent with a polisher on paint?  I don’t say this negatively, but rather as a sense of business in how do you price a job when you don’t really know what it entails to provide the results the client is looking for?
 
Black vehicles use the same process any other vehicle requires. The difference is that black will show every imperfection there is. Swirls, buffer trails, pig tails, etc. there is no hiding them on black paint in direct sunlight. That’s part of the challenge in tackling a black vehicle. Black vehicles for us typically require more than a single step paint polish to get the results we are after. If the vehicle is heavily swirled as it sounds it is, an all in one like the one-step might not provide the cutting power/finish you’re after.
 
A few questions for you come to mind.  What type of polisher/polishers are you using?  What pads do you have experience with?  How much experience do you have in paint correction?  What other tools do you have at your disposal?  Different compounds, paint thickness gauge (a must in my opinion if you’re charging clients to work on their vehicle), lighting etc. 
 
Paint correction and polishing are similar, but not exactly the same. A paint correction is more when you’re aiming for perfection in the paint. Paint polishing is giving a number of steps and the results “are what they are.” I’m very clear to not use correction unless my client is paying for that (which is done strictly hourly in cost). 
 
What is your lighting setup like?  We use harsh LED lighting to help find the imperfections in the paint. We always want to see a vehicle in its worst condition to understand how to fix it. You mentioned the vehicle is very dirty currently. This will make finding scratches difficult as well as seeing the depth of swirls. 
 
Your pad pad and polish combination will depend on what you have available for equipment. We use Rupes polishers and have everything from wool pads with compounds that you can feel the abrasive in to soft pads with finishing polishes. Based on experience we will always take a guess at a process and test a small damaged section to see if we get the results we want. Once we are satisfied, we will then move on to the rest of the vehicle. If we find an area with more damage, we may change pads/polish to attack a particular area of scratch before going back to the base process. Black typically requires finishing polish on top of a correcting polish to get the absolute best results. Especially if it’s paint that hasn’t been maintained.
 
We always measure vehicles paint thickness before and after we work on them to make sure we aren’t taking off too much clear coat. It’s easy to get carried away chasing perfection and not realize how much material you’re removing. Once the mayoral is gone, it’s gone. If you’re collecting money in exchange for service, you’re then on the hook for the repaint and clear of that panel. 
 
If if you’re going to suggest a sealant anyway (which is a good idea), my opinion would be to skip the one step product and use a correcting polish followed by finishing polish and sealant. This will provide a good finish and durability. 
 
As for what pads to use, there’s too many factors to make a solid recommendation. Microfiber pads cut faster than foam pads. They also load up more and need to be brushed out more often to allow them to work. 
 
There are a lot of forces at play in what you’re trying to accomplish based upon this post and others you’ve made. The best advice I can give you as someone who’s gone through (and continues to go through) the process of opening a business is to find an experienced detailer that will mentor you as you gain experience. You will constantly reinvest in new equipment and products as you settle on what to use. We recently switched pad manufacturers as we kept trying new things. 
 
From the sounds of your posts, I’d be slightly hesitant to collect money for paint correction services based on your experience currently. Once you’ve done enough of your vehicles and friends vehicles to have the experience under your belt, along with the confidence to deliver the results you promise someone, then start charging. We did a fair number of vehicles as hobbyists for materials and pizza/beer before taking money and promising results. It allowed us to help out friends and build experience. It helped establish time estimates for jobs to figure out pricing.
 
I’m not one to advocate for discounted work (anyone who’s read my posts regarding business knows that) since you’re training your client to pay less. The flip side is you need the experience to be confident in delivering your promised results. Figure all of that out, then start pursuing clients at the rates you want to charge. Your true friends and supporters will then support you and your business by paying a fair price for your work as you will be an experienced professional. 
 
Food for thought. Your mileage may vary. 

Last weekend, I took my first swing at doing a car I don't make the payments on . They only wanted a "wash & wax" and interior cleaning, so no paint correction this time around. Overall, the car was in pretty decent shape to start, but some Adam's love proved to take it to the next level.
 
Products used: 
Red CS (to get the crud off) HGG (to add a base sealant and shine) BW (to add another layer or protection and shine) BG (to show off! and for interior windshield) APC (for wheels, tail pipes, floormats and trunk liner) WC (for deep cleaning the wheels) TRC (for tires) TS (added two coats because the customer wanted them extra shiny!) UCS (make the front fender liners disappear; rears were carpeted so didn't use it there) VRT (for all trim) RW 16:1 to make WW-like solution (door jams) ID (over all interior surfaces to make the inside look great) LIC (extra cleaning power for some interior surfaces) GC (clean glass!) DS (nav screen and instrument cluster) LC (to treat the interior and add some nice fragrance) CUC (spot cleaning where necessary) ON (added fragrance) Wash Pad Fender Brush Tire Brush Wheel Woolie Cockpit Brush Interior Red Foam Applicator Foam Block Grey MF Pads DSTs GC Towels Sidekick Lots of elbow grease  
Before shots:

 

 

 

 

 
During shots:
 

 

 

 
And now for the SHINE!
 

 

 

 

 

 
Hero Shots!
 
The shiniest picture was also the largest file. Coincidence?! I think NOT!  (and yes, I later cleaned the small mud flap by the rear tire and applied TS to where the tires were missed )...
 

 

 

 

Mine 

Just put up a new bottle rack for sprays. Easier than going through the drawer I think.
 
Simple and only cost $10. 

Here is our setup. Although tomorrow we are installing a new rack for bottled products to hang on so it frees up more drawer space. 
 

Yeah that's a shame.  Figures that we get a leaked product that is not meant for our environment lol

Hey Ed,
 
it's a cloudburst mitt, which is a non-Adam's product. Feel free to message me and I'll let you know some more details about it.
 
it's cool to have something that's not available yet! It's a shame I can't use it.. 
 

Here's a couple shots that I took in the early morning, before driving it to work a few days after finishing the detail, and then getting rained on.
 

 

 

 

 
 
 
 
 

How the...

An Aussie exclusive!!  
 
Nice pickup, Joel.  What kind of mitt is that?  Is that like the Red Wash Mitt but in green?  I've never seen it in a different colour.
 

Just like it says, here is some pics of an awesome 65 Shelby I had the pleasure of bringing back to life. It has been in many a show, been restored 30 years ago, and was just sold so the new owner needed to have a little love done to it before it hit the track with other Shelby's. All Adams products used to bring back the shine !  Enjoy
 

Hey all!
I just received some Rubber Mat and Liner cleaner, and was wondering if it could be used as a substitute for Tyre and Rubber cleaner (as I've run out) and on black  plastic trim to clean it before trim coating - does anyone know or tried it for any of these things? I've tried looking but haven't really found much information on it so far (I can't even find it on the website )
 
Thanks in advance!

Hey Dan,
 
Thanks for reaching out! I have to say, I was quite surprised when it arrived - I might hold off on using it on any tyres or trim, as I don't want to cause any damage, and I have ordered another T&RC anyway. The smell is amazing though - I've opened it a few times just to enjoy the scent. I'm guessing it wont be a problem if I trade this to another forum member, or would you prefer me to send it back to you guys, as it isn't a released product yet?
Thanks, Joel

Yeah I've noticed this before, something about DS definitely attracts bees. 
I'd probably want to avoid taking out the DS in this spot:  

Hi Joel,
Thanks for contacting us! The Rubber Mat & Liner Cleaner did leak out to some of our dealers earlier this year, but it is not a product that has been released to the public yet. I'm not 100% sure if/when it will be available through our website. It's designed primarily for cleaning rubber floor mats like Weathertech, Husky, etc. I would not recommend using it on plastic trim, but if you do, test in a small area first to ensure no negative reactions. It should in theory work fine on tires, but I have not yet tried it, so again, test in a small area if you would like, to make sure there are no issues.
Since this product technically hasn't been released yet, I can't give too much more information about it at this time.
Respectfully,
Dan@Adams

Here are a few pics.  It was getting dark out so not the best pics and its white so its not as obvious but this jeep hasn't looked this good since it was bought I think.  It was in kinda rough shape when I bought it 1.5 years ago.  Now the paint is smooth like a new paint job.  Pretty good shine and reflection in it too.  I'm satisfied for an almost 15 yr old Jeep that has been out in the elements until I bought it.
 
 

Hey all!
I just received some Rubber Mat and Liner cleaner, and was wondering if it could be used as a substitute for Tyre and Rubber cleaner (as I've run out) and on black  plastic trim to clean it before trim coating - does anyone know or tried it for any of these things? I've tried looking but haven't really found much information on it so far (I can't even find it on the website )
 
Thanks in advance!

Hey all!
I just received some Rubber Mat and Liner cleaner, and was wondering if it could be used as a substitute for Tyre and Rubber cleaner (as I've run out) and on black  plastic trim to clean it before trim coating - does anyone know or tried it for any of these things? I've tried looking but haven't really found much information on it so far (I can't even find it on the website )
 
Thanks in advance!

It actually has not been released yet. It works very well on floor mats and foams up really well when you scrub, great cleaning power. I’m not sure if you can use it as a replacement but I would say no, as the tire and rubber cleaner is designed specifically for trim and tires 

Good thing you got your list done early.  Now all you have to do is behave !!!  

THis is my car from a few weeks ago after a quick wash and brilliant glaze application. Used 1 coat and applied using the microfiber applicator pad.