nasastang

Not today but over memorial day weekend,  did a full correction and coated my buddies F250 with Adams Ceramic Paint Coating. Turned out great, but damn that is a lot of truck

Sounds similar to Mckees paint coating or can coat. Looking forward to it though!

Washed my girls car. Its coated with Adams ceramic coating. Tried topping it with the new H2.0GG and gave the tires two coats of Tire Armor.

In this vid he says its now SI02 infused and in another he uses it on a ceramic coated vehicle. I assume we can now use it on ceramic coated vehicle?

Detailed my mom's new to her, Nissan Murano for her birthday 

Did a wash/full decontamination, paint correction and ceramic coating.

Adams products used were: Adams car shampoo, wheel cleaner, 15mm/12mm polisher, some of their 3 inch pads, glass cleaner, leather and interior cleaner, leather conditioner, VRT and various towels/buckets/brushes/mitts.

Used Paint Sealant and Ceramic Paste Wax on a friends 130k mile Prius I did. Had no issues applying CPW on top of the sealant, think it turned out really well.

I usually fill up a bucket with some water mix in some APC before starting and just chuck the pads in there once I am done with it and continue on with a new one. Once done take them out and wash with the hose like the vid and let dry.

Glad they took care of you! Share some pics when its redone!

So, I tried 2 oz of Adams rinseless wash  (waterless wash dilution) and 2 oz of Boost 1.0 in a 32 once bottle with the rest water. Tested it on some glass, cleaned it up well and left a slick surface behind with no streaking and no buffing. Might try adding  1/2 - 1 more ounces of boost to it.

I will try it with some rinseless wash when I get home, using a similar dilution.

Eh, I was just trying to share I had been using Adams ceramic boost with another product to make a more quick detail type solution with good results. Maybe boost 2.0 will negate it needing to be diluted. Should have some here shortly.

Yea it would be nice to have a gallon or the 32once size for a product like prep.

You are welcome! Enjoy the clean looking scatpack.

Yes, if you are going to be polishing, you will want to hit it with Coating prep prior to applying any sort of last step product (Wax/Sealant/Coating etc.)  The coating prep will remove the polishing oils, to help ensure the you have "naked" paint for the sealant to bond to the paint. If you were doing just a strip wash/reapply of the sealant and no polishing, the stripwash/ironx would leave the surface ready for the sealant.

I feel you, a lot of prep work goes into a coating, having to redo it so soon would be frustrating (specially a big truck). Does not appear you did anything wrong on your part. Should not have to work to hard to strip the coating does not look like much if any is present. Hopefully they can make it right.

Any particular reason you give it an APC bath, so frequent? APC will strip or weaken most last step products (boost, wax/LSP etc.) and if (when) you recoat, it should not need a APC type bath but maybe once or twice a year to kind of  "refresh" the coated surface.

I have used Adams Ceramic boost mixed with *******  using about 1.5OZ of each to a 32oz bottle for awhile. Works great.

Yea an APC should not have any negative impact on the coating. Sounds like it may have not had enough time to set up on the paint, I guess they sent out the old directions for the 7H. Did you do a wipe down with coating prep or a similar product prior to applying the coating?  I would agree they should send out a replacement.

Is the whole truck having the coating failure? If you have some coating left hit the hood with a quick polish/coating prep and reapply with the correct cure time and see how that goes.

Out of curiosity what was wrong with the directions?  

I would imagine Adams LPS, topped with Ceramic paste wax and maintained with boost should get you through winter (similar to another popular sealant/wax combo out there).

Cleaned up a friends 130000 mile prius. Washed it, iron/tar decontamination/clay and polished the headlights. I then used Adams liquid paint sealant and topped it with some Adams ceramic paste wax

x.

• Should not be any issue with body shop work being done, sanding/polishing/compounding should remove most coating no problem.
• A coating near or at its end of life should only need a polish to remove it. I know M205/Jescar can. So Adams correcting/finishing polish should do the trick. But can always test an area to confirm its removed.
• That is up to you really,  I personally would tell the person/dealer I was selling to it is coated. Is if I was selling it myself, I would give the person some tips on caring for it. But like you said some people do not care about that kind of stuff and who knows if the dealer would pass it on anyways.
• Maintaining my coatings I usually do a decon wash 2 times per year(definitely after winter). Something like Strip Wash/Reset/Iron and Tar Remover and a light claying if any build up. For regular washes I just use the good ol' Adams Car Shampoo.  At least once every couple months top it with a product like Ceramic Boost/Reload etc. On my personal vehicles I usually use a topper after every wash, just cause.

Ah, yea doing trucks is fun ha, love doing my brothers ram. I used H20 on my cars when I had PS on them, benefit of using that is its designed to work with PS. But I do like the glassy, slick nature of boost, could try a PS base, then the new ceramic wax and maintain with boost. For the truck might be worth while coating it if its a DD.

Alternatively I like using products like Carpo Hydro Lite or Gyeon Wet coat on my brothers truck for maintaince super fast way to do large vehicles. I hope Adams comes out with a product similar to them at some point.

I have both and use them on coated vehicles, they both apply pretty much the same, only a 1-2 sprays per panel or they can streak. The gloss and slickness is pretty close as well. Hard to say the longevity on coated vehicles since water beads like crazy regardless. I don't think you will get crazy longevity as a standalone from either, works better as a topper.

The newer ceramic boost bottling has instructions for using boost as a drying aid. I have also mixed boost in with a waterless wash product as sort of a QD solution and works well as a drying aid.

Guess it depends on what was used and I would defer to what the paint shop says, but I think  you usually want to allow for atleast month or so for fresh paint to off gas etc before applying anything to it. But baking could speed that up.

I would let it sit in controlled environment as long of the 24 hours as possible, it is mainly about not getting any moisture on the coating while it cures however. As said by Shane, I would not use any waxes or polymer sealants unless designed to work with coating (i.e. Adams Ceramic paste wax) as it could act funny applying them or mess up the hydrophobic properties on the coating. Ceramic Boost is applied usually every few months or so as part of the typical wash routine. Once its coated you can blow dry the car pretty easy. I made a quick detail solution of Car Pro ECH20 and Adams Ceramic Boost that seems to work really well as a drying add and gloss enhancer  to go over the car real quick after a wash.

Just an FYI Car Pro Reset is their soap, you want to use Car Pro Eraser or Adams Coating prep prior to applying the coating, once the paint is corrected.