Wk2Altitude15

I have a white grand cherokee and somethinga about the FCA vehicles and their bright white paint is something special. its so glossy and pops like no other. Good looking vehicle.

I just used the TAR over the weekend and im very pleased with it. Works very quickly and i love that its an aerosol. Make sure you have ventilation tho its a very strong smelling chemical.

got it thank you sir

On 4/29/2020 at 12:38 AM, enoch7fa said:

I was wondering if anyone knew if the cleaner amount in CS3 is more or less than what is in Ceramic Waterless Wash?  if the cleaner amount is less than what is in CWW then it is not superior to me.  the main purpose of a type of CWW is to first to clean and second to support the ceramic coating.  there are too many ways to boost a ceramic coating for the CS3 to be week on cleaning.  not bumping it just saying.  I tried it for the first time and I liked it because of the ceramic effect but just wondered if the cleaning properties were good before I dropped CWW.

From what i understand its the CWW but better so ill go on and say the cleaning properties are the same if not better as well as the protection is better. They wont put out the amount of sio2 in the product , however my guess is that its more than CWW and less that Boost. So if i had to guess about 11-13% range. 

Can any of the admins do me a solid and help me out with the constant password reset every time i log in? Thanks in advance.

39 minutes ago, galaxy said:

 

Yea Ray, pollen is too much, and IMO, too abrasive to try to wipe off if it’s  too heavy. That junk just makes a mess.  

 

I use CB like you, but to answer, yes, I use regular WW on my ceramic. I already had it and haven’t used up my gallon yet.  It works amazing, and shouldn’t leave anything on the surface like some other products.  Thus using WW on a coated surface really shouldn’t matter much, if any at all.  It’s just not going to “add to” the maintenance of the coating, I get that. 

 

My main question still begs though...CS3 vs CWW....any need for both?  Room in your arsenal for both?  Why?

I have both , but only because i had purchased the CWW before the CS3 came out. As i said earlier i use the CWW for waterless washes and sometimes a drying aid since i have it. I use the CS3 as a ceramic detailer after ive dried my vehicle. I like to go panel by panel with roughly 2 sprays and buff off. Works incredible.

Absolutely, CS3 is my favorite product of Adams right now, i was using the CWW as my drying aid and topper but now CS3 took over lol. However i dont use it as a drying aid as the bottle is small and cost more. My thing personally is i love going back over the dry panels with CS3 as my detailer. 

On 4/10/2020 at 10:01 PM, stalebreadjr said:

Thanks @Wk2Altitude15 !  The write up did take a while but I can say I enjoyed it.  I also think participation is so key on a forum like this.  I have learned so much in a short time reading the write-ups of others and wanted to keep that culture going!  LOL I did get a good workout hand polishing, but I learned a good bit from doing that and could control what I was doing and that was my goal.  I'll take ur advice on the light, I actually have been looking at adding a good stand alone light for detailing anyways.  I can say that my CSC is still going strong.  Now, I do keep my truck in the garage and it is not a daily driver so take that as it is.

Thats good to hear, once the csc wears off id recommend going with their ceramic coating. The process is the same as you did and a polisher would make quick work of any light polishing that would be needed. Especially since you would want to exfoliate the clear coat prior to coating but at least you'll be good for a few years and reap the benefits. Since you do have some type of ceramic on there id also recommend getting a bottle of CS3, that product is fantastic for everything it is. I mainly use it as a ceramic detailer, the gloss is awesome from it and provides great protection. 

The stuff works really well and can be diluted and thats a plus. Extra 16oz would be a nice grab!!

Damn good work my man. This write up is unreal and im not sure what took longer the vehicle or the write up lol. But killer job on everything. As others have said wait till you get your hands on a polisher. I cant imagine how worked your arms were after using Revive lol. The polishers are just so great and easy to use. I have the 15mm, 12mm mini, and Micro. All 3 aren't needed but always great to have. Since your truck looks to me like its in great shape clear coat wise , if you do get a polisher it would be advisable to get either a pen light or some type of correction light to get close up on the paint if your picky to check for marring and swirls. Last year i used the new One Step Polish to clear up some marring and swirls on my bright white jeep and i will say it did a great job and removing almost all my marks and finishes well imo. After that i did what you did with prepping and using the ceramic spray. The ceramic spray didnt quite last thru the winter but i will be redoing it again soon and once i have a garage accessible will go to a true ceramic coat. Again great job and i know there will be a lot of people that can use this incredible write for first time detailing!

On 11/16/2019 at 3:17 PM, TheWolf said:

That product is still an all purpose cleaner.  At full-strength it is a degreaser, and when diluted it is still a cleaner.  While it may be safe for use on a clear coat, it will still reduce the lifespan of any type of protection on the paint, even a coating.  Any product that is not pH-neutral will have this affect on protection.

 

You are better off using the shampoo-rinseless mixture to soften winter crud on the car before pre-rinsing.

Thank you for your input Wolf. That was my main concern was degrading the coating to which ill stick with my other option of using a rinseless wash. Thanks

22 hours ago, Chris@Adams said:

I always go to the car wash and blast all the winter junk off, then come home and do a two bucket wash in my garage.

I know that everyone doesn't have that luxury to wash in a heated garage.

that would definitely be my ultimate solution but not gonna happen lol. 

On 11/13/2019 at 12:48 PM, TheWolf said:

I would not use APC in your pre-rinse solution, as any harsh cleaner will likely shorten the lifespan of the coating (or any other form of protection).

 

My pre-rinse solution is shampoo and Rinseless Wash.  I used a Foam Cannon for this solution, with 2oz shampoo and 4oz Rinseless Wash.  For use in a sprayer, mix to the same dilution as the instructions indicate for rinseless washing, and add the shampoo to give the solution some more hang time on the paint.  You may want to switch to a foaming sprayer, as the foam gives it more hang time, and the longer the pre-rinse solution is on the paint, the more effective it will be.

 

In this write-up, I did a rinse before the pre-soak, but you can do your regular soak then pre-rinse.

 

 

The apc i was referring to was Optimum Power Clean, diluted at 3:1 or even 5:1. Very widely used product that is super safe for clear coat.(just didn't want to talk about other companies products on here). But my main plan was to use a rinseless wash and my pump sprayer does have a foaming tip. My thing is that i will be bringing all of this with me to the pay n spray like i usually do during the winter. At home i use my pressure washer and foam cannon. Just wanted to see what anyone else uses that breaks up or softens any debris on the vehicle from driving. 

Just out of curiosity i wanted to see what everyones methods are for winter washing pre sinses if coated with the CSC 2.0? Im from NEPA and the salt is awful up here. I have a gallon pump sprayer and typically i use a diluted form of an apc along with some car soap for a pre rinse when im at the pay n spray along with hot 2 bucket method. Just wondering what everyone else uses if your coated with the CSC. I want to make sure whatever i use isnt going to degrade the spray coating at all. 

The ceramic waterless wash is probably my favorite product. I use it as a drying aid and also a quick detailer right after im done washing. It leaves great protection on the paint with no streaking. 

On 4/11/2019 at 9:51 AM, buffalobob920 said:

It’s really just a wax on steroids so I would think a good strip wax would be sufficient if the car has to be corrected then use a machine but first clay where necessary 

thanks, this is true however it does have the sio2 in it and im figuring about 10% or so.  However it works incredible as a standalone sealant. but warmer weather is here and i wanted to strip everything and clay so i figured that would remove it all anyway.

Knowing that a true ceramic coating has to be removed by machine , how about the Ceramic Boost? Will a strip wash be strong enough to remove it seeing as its such a lesser amount of Sio2? 

On 3/13/2019 at 5:08 PM, RayS said:

Hi @Wk2Altitude15

 

@shane@detailedreflections and @falcaineer have pointed out you are look at two different product families and there is no benefit to mixing them.  I have found that for the wife's daily driver that sits in the garage, a Waterless Wash follow by Spray Wax keeps it looking good.  The Spray Wax is easy to apply, looks great and the ease to work with it is the same in 40 degree weather as it is in 90 and the humidity doesn't seem to matter either.   According where she's driven, I touch up her car every week or so, sometimes just using Detail Spray and other times WW + SW.  If we are going out and I want it to really pop, I'll go over it with Brilliant Glaze. 

 

My truck has Ceramic Boost on it and it sits outside 24/7 and is my daily driver.  I wash it as often as I can and it might be a week or unfortunately a month between washes.  If it has been a month, then I use CB 2.0 after it has been dried.  I'll also point out that I just changed my routine for the truck based on feedback from @Dan@Adams who let me know that my technique was not optimal and it should be wiped off immediately after application, so if you see any of my older posts about CB and waiting a couple of minutes to wipe it off - ignore it.   For the night out or trip to a show, you can still top CB with Brilliant Glaze and it will really make it pop.  Just remember, Brilliant Glaze is short term no matter what you are putting it on.

 

The key to any getting any vehicle look good is the preparation.  Once you have the vehicle clean, the routine maintenance is easier and a lot more fun.  Enjoy the addiction.

Thank you everyone for the great answers , sorry i didn't realize these answers until now in April. Usually i dont do anything other that the CB after a wash ( Wash & Wax 7% Sio2) but for that day i tried it out to see how it would be and of course there was a killer gloss to it. But to save product i wont follow the CB with SW anymore. 

Lately ive really been liking the combination of washing with WW and then after drying using CB 2.0 as a standalone sealant on my non-coated paint. Question is should you put the SW down before the CB or vice versa? I always thought you top with wax but it seems now people are putting the wax down first and then sealing in. Anyones take on this? Thanks.