goheels

I'm going to need a certificate of authenticity or a hand-writing expert to verify the signatures. Yes, I know I watch too much of Pawn Stars.

The lifetime 110% guarantee is no joke. I've swapped out brushes that were bought years ago that had bristles coming out, cracked bottles full of product, etc. with absolutely no problem. The reality is that you can get a number of the same Adam's products from competing retailers for cheaper. For example, Amazon sells the same vacuum's, blowers, etc. that is on this site at a lower price. Why do I continue to purchase through Adam's? Because I know if I have any problems or it doesn't meet my standards even years later, I can get it quickly replaced with absolutely no hassle. Adam's customer service is exceptional.

In short, yes you are a chump Like most here, I get the "do mine next" comments all the time (along with the annoying "you are going to wash the paint right off that thing"). I only do immediate/extended family for free. However, with a full-time job, wife and 1 year-old, my time is much too valuable. Perhaps most importantly, I find it incredibly frustrating to detail a car (8+ hours) to know that they are going to put the swirls/scratches right back in a few weeks later because of improper washing technique. People just don't seem to care how to maintain a swirl-free finish.

Good lord, I hope not. The quality is very poor for the cost. No Highs, no lows.... it must be Bose.

Some nice cars, pdisme Any chance you could post up some pics - interior/exterior of those beauties?

Junkman had posted on a different forum that the seams/stitching of Adams double-softs can scratch paint. (there is also threading on the gwt border). Is there any truth to his claim?

Nice car, but like the others on here I'm not a fan of the color combo. Also, I'm not sure you should be applying 2 coats of MSS. My feeling is that you want just a thin layer of the sealant before applying wax, etc. on top.

probably good to see a close-up shot of the paint in your "after" picture...

I've actually recently switched out an Adam's product simply for this reason. (From your description I'm using the same product and couldn't be happier.) The ridiculous amount of savings for me diluting a competitor's concentrate that gives me the same fantastic results was just too tempting to pass up. However, I will always use Adam's for items that I'm more slow to go through (i.e, SHR, FMP, sealant, wax, etc.).

oops.. double post

Read this New car smell is toxic, study says: Which cars are worst? - HealthPop - CBS News Still want to retain that smell? +1 for Adams Leather Conditioner

Just saw a commercial with Danny Koker, aka "The Count" advertising for a "miracle" product in detailing https://www.getdetaildoctor.com/?mid=3046755 Man, I really looked up to the guy for his restorative work with bikes/cars. So dissapointing to see him peddle such crap

Your girlfriend used your Adam's products without permission?

Very nice and complete write-up - very much enjoy the sequence of pictures! I'm sure you drove very slowly on the dirt road for your more rural pictures Also, please tell me that dirtied-up clay is from just claying the windows and not from claying the paint of a new car. I mean, I know that you should clay after gettting it from the dealership, but damn....

Had this happen to my bottle of L+IC a while back, and it was replaced immediately by Adams. Best customer service in the business. Don't fret, just contact them directly and they will take care of you.

As a new father, I think I'll keep my comments to myself. This is a family site and writing my thoughts would result in me getting banned.

While others will chime in, no that is not normal. After the 2-bucket wash you should be dealing with a clean car prior to removing the contaminants out of the clear coat with the clay bar. During polishing, you must be have a clean/dust-free surface to work with! You risk seriously damaging the paint if you grind excess dirt by hand (with applicators) or by machine with the pads. edited to add - unless it isn't "dirt" you are finding on the pads as the above poster suggests

Hi Mook- quick question, and I apologize if posted before... After getting the car washed (and skipping the pool rinsing/drying steps) I usually have tons of water left on my car to the point where I need very little (if any) detail spray for the dry areas when parked in the garage. Related to the OP's original question, is it ok to clay with water only prior to the polishing steps? Does water alone act enough as a lubricant to not inflict damage by the clay bar?

You should do a cd test with them just for the entertainment value

Skipping the polishing step after claying isn't recommended because claying can introduce micromarring in the paint. However your ride looks good!

Completely agree with the op. went from black to gray for my car and white on my wife's suv. With a family and children I don't have the same kind of time to take care of a black vehicle to my satisfaction. Never again will I own a black car.

... and this is the reason I wouldn't use APC on your wheels, even at 50/50. The trade-off of having to reapply wax/sealant after every wash isn't worth the extra dough. IMHO, you are better off using car shampoo from the wash as an alternative as it won't strip wax and does a decent job on cleaning already well-maintained wheels.

I just wanted to take the opportunity to add my sincere thanks to Adams and his team. After a defective bottle cracked open my L+IC spilling product when stored in my cabinet, Dylan immediately sent a replacement. Adams is just a fabulous company and they have a customer for life with me. Thank you!

I would use some kind of polish before the wax since claying sometimes introduces micromarring in the paint

You're using multiple drying towels because the lower/rear parts of your car get dirty? That doesn't make much sense to me. After a proper two-bucket wash no part of your car should be dirty to the point that you are worried about inflicting damage with a GWDT. I try to limit the time I'm physically touching paint. After sheet rinsing and sidekick (or blaster) to a recently sealed/waxed car, there should be only a few water droplets here and there left. A gentle blot with 1 GWDT is all it takes, IMHO. Save yourself the extra laundry