vobro

Love it on red!

Welcome from a fellow Durango owner and from Homer Glen.

Same here, the long bristles are more effective than the Wheel Woolies. Let the APC do the majority of the work, only work one a cool engine and let it dwell.

When my cars are at the level I like I focus more on getting the door jambs spotless, getting the rubber/plastic outer pieces cleaned and protected ( a necessity on BMW's around the windows. What about sitting back and just admiring what you have? Are there swirls? Most likely but if your happy then that's all that matters. My 3 cars and bass boat is spotless most times and I'm done with driving myself nuts walking around with led lights looking for the smallest of swirls,I already have a job that I have to go to. I just did a M5 in Singapore Grey and that color really hides swirls nicely

Since you are going to restore at sometime I'd just keep it clean and just wax, there's nothing you can do to fix that paint. Sorry about your father in law

Ha yes the beauty of an empty new to you garage. I built my house 10 years ago and it's a 3 car and it's so nice to walk out anytime you want to enjoy what you've worked for. I say enjoy because it's a simple pleasure but it's surprising how fast a garage can fill up and what collects in there after a period of time. Congratulations on your home

It may seem confusing at first but I use on first application the Leather and Interior cleaner on all leather and plastic,really good cleaner. I then follow with the Leather Conditioner on seats, steering wheel, center armrest and trans lever. I prefer the TID on dash and door plastic as it has less shine which I prefer. I do the same method every 4-5 weeks as maintanence or as needed. It's all personal opinion but getting the surface clean is key, if you have a garage queen you will go much longer between cleaning/ conditioning,if your in construction and enjoy the outdoors like me you may do it more often. As for VRT it was way to shiny on my Chevy even at 1:1 but on my Dodge it looked ok but only did it once on the doors and it held too much dust

For what it's worth I have the Rupes 21 and 15 and the Flex. All great tools but on really trashed paint IMHO the Flex is king followed by the 21 with the smaller backing plate. I've had used the Flex longer so maybe I'm more used to it but it just knocks out defects better. Benefits to the Rupes is its smoother,easier to master and will finish down on the polishing step better also runs a lot cooler than the Flex. The Rupes can knock out trashed paint but just takes slightly longer. Upgrading from the PC either one is a huge upgrade and my Flex is 3 years old with many,many uses and the Rupes I've had for a year and a half and both have been rock solid. Also the Rupes may stall on tight curves but if your new to a more powerful machine it will prevent damage where as with the Flex it won't stall and if your careless or paint is already thin there's a small chance you could damage the paint.

Nice

I would wash the car right before you deliver it, not saying he's a monster but I fear anyone touching my paint even dust. As far as surface prep I'd leave it to him and just tell him what may be on the glass

7 weeks for me, last winter was BRUTAL.

This is right on for making money, combining steps is the way to save time. You explained that most customers want clean and fresh, I'd invest in a pressure washer first that way you can knock out pre-rinse,APC wheel wells and tires and clean wheels. I'm not saying take short cuts but let the products work for you while your doing something else. I too think your prices are low but you are the one doing the work but one can still do a quality job and be efficient also. Rinsless,clay and HG&G can be done per panel twice as fast as traditional methods

Weird on the shampoo I get 1/4 oz per pump

I'm not a chemist but from what I've seen prolonged storage in heat has an adverse effect on some chemicals. Especially since you have used them before with no problems I'd say heat would be an issue.

It may be parts of all, older product,stored inside a Texas garage for 2-3 years (is the garage air conditioned?). Also even though it was at 9 pm low 80's will make it more difficult especially for correcting, if the Correction Polish was drying right awayand you had severe dusting I'd say the panel never cooled off from the daylight hours. I know for me when you have heat and humidity it makes for a long day if I have to polish

Thanks for the honesty! I for one never cared for the pumps, yes on the shampoo it "pumped" but was messy and the shampoo is very slick so when it runs down the bottle I'd drop it very time. I have rather large hands and the pump just made holding an applicator and dispensing a PIA. I guess I'd chalk it up to "finding a better way" when you didn't have too. Now onto admitting it was a mistake, I highly doubt most other companies would make a big deal over a cap/pump, Ive bought products and hated them and would call only to find out that "version 2" has replaced it with no admission of a failed product. I placed an order with a coupon code once at 10:45 pm and woke up the next day to check order status only to see a better code was now available, I called only to learn that I wouldn't get to use the better code cause "that's how sales work" I was drawn to Adams about four years ago when a buddy of mine told me that his Adams APC gallon jug split at the seam causing it to leak, he told me you sent out a new gallon PLUS a 16oz.. My long winded point is Adam's offers solid products,website,110% guarantee and seemingly a honest way of doing business whether it's disclosure of where the product is made or making a right from a wrong. These reasons are why I keep buying your products.

I received a 4oz free sample of HGG and that little pump sprayer really does lay down a fine mist. I too didn't care for the inconsistent spray pattern,splatter and waste of product from the trigger spray. HGG is a solid product

^^ This! I have more control with the pads, with the wedge it feels like my hand is too far of the paint.

If there's seals exposed make sure to tape them off or they could get stained. Also if you do use a polish do not assume you'd have to use a lot of pressure cause you are doing it by hand, that material is usually softer than regular clear coat

Had a 90 5.0 LX hatchback and that is the one car I wish I still had, traded it in on a 94 Lightning. Please drive that car more often

Sorry if my previous post sounded harsh, I read it again and I can see it was a little strong. I'm happy it worked out for you Paul

Looks great! Besides black paint nothing is more rewarding than chrome after the hard work.

I'm familiar with the Kosilla way of dwell, but are we to come up with terms like haze, more hazed and over hazed? Buttery is absolutely the easiest wax to use, I don't understand why the simplest tasks turn into "I know better". If the op would have asked about letting it dwell overnight it would have been recommended otherwise, that's the beauty of these forums and the Adams product to me. Simple, effective and described in either video or thru the forum

Yep he would be in the garage with me all the time, except on interior work

If it's the M wheel it's a softer type material also steering wheels are wrapped tighter than seats and won't get "supple" like seats. be careful not to rub too hard. Steering wheels, gear shift knobs and the center armrest tend to be the dirtiest parts of the interior and its best practice to make multiple light passes. Usually making 1-2 attempts at cleaning isn't enough on a dirty surface (dirt,skin oil,food grease), Leather Cleaner will do the job. I've done many BMW steering wheels and what your looking for is dull and grippy after cleaning, to compare do a 50/50 test next time.