Polish/Pad Drying

[CrawlinTBSS]

What does it mean if the edges of the pad are getting dried polish as im working around a car.

 

last black car i did a full SHR and FMP to the whole car. and through out the process, i was continually getting dried polish whip everywhere. the polish to the edges of the pad was drying everytime, with both SHR and FMP. Usually it took awhile for it to start up when first starting off with the clean pad. But as it saturated a bit, while working it would dry out and create tons of polish dust all over that i'd have to keep wiping off. I tried to keep the pad misted with detail spray but not too much that it would soak the pads to much or create watery product onto the car.

 

I was using my PC and corresponding pads and watching my pressure the whole time. small maybe 4 " wide Xs for applying polish to the pad. sometimes just spritzing with DS to reactivate some of the polish still on the pad.

 

am i applying to much pressure and creating it to heat up and dry out fast? not enough DS?

 

The more knowledge the better! Just looking to learn a little more and correct this issue. Thanks!

[mc2hill]

Sounds like they are drying out, so a some DS should help. Also, how many pads are you using, and/or are you cleaning them during the detail?

 

I use at least 2 pads for a 'long' detail, and the 'clean on the fly' technique for a short detail.

[CrawlinTBSS]

ive been using 1 pad. i was thinking of getting another after doing that car and seeing how soaked 1 pad was after finishing the car.

 

i know i need more DS for the drying polish, but then it just seems like too much DS is on the pad and i cant apply more product due to it being so wet with DS.

 

my process has been - starting off with first area on car - mist pad once, apply x, do the process for that section, then mist the pad twice, and use that DS / reactivated polish to do the next section or redo the same one again.etc.etc.etc. usually adding polish with a medium size x when i feel it seems as the polish is gone again.

Edited September 5, 2011 by CrawlinTBSS

[chrisguga]

You need to clear the pad frequently. I clean it after I work every set. I just use a tire type brush with relatively stiff bristles, turn the PC to speed 3, and run the bristles along the pad and you'll see dust fly! The pad will bite like it's supposed to after this.

[Chris@Adams]

Some drying and dusting is normal. however DS will help out to prevent drying.

[Derajaman]

I'm having close to the same issue as the OP. I have two black DD's and when detailing both cars I notice I either a) get dry dusting of the polish or wet misting of the product that then dries on windows and already polished paint that almost requires claying to get it back off. It seems like a spiraling process as I washed and clayed the car to get it clean for polishing, then have to reclean and clay the car to get the dried polish off that then could introduce some marring again to then have to repolish...etc.

 

I usually don't reapply product from section to section since when I apply DS it seems to reactivate the product on the pad just as if I had added product. I usually start with the three pea sized drops on the pad, one shot of DS, then on the next section add a little more product, DS, but usually don't add anymore polish since DS reactivates like I said previously. Am I not using enough product? It doesn't seem to be the case as my DD's are a Chevy Trailblazer and a Subaru Legacy, and the first detail was with the legacy that polished beautifully (probably soft paint) but the TB didn't want to correct at all. It looks good, but you can see all kinds of scratches that didn't even come out with SSR and the PC.

 

Suggestions?

[Team Adam's]

Premature drying is a result of working on a hot surface most times... what are the conditions you guys are working in?

 

Also if you're getting WET polish flung out from the pad you're either using entirely too much or not keeping your pad flush with the paint.

 

You might also see some moisture get flung out if you haven't allowed the pad to dry all the way between uses. The water deep in the pad will come spraying out everywhere.

[Derajaman]

I can't speak for the OP, but both were done at different temps/conditions, both in the garage with no direct sunlight. One was this spring, the other was just this weekend, but both times it was not more than 80 degrees outside and the garage was at least 5 to 10 degrees cooler than that.

 

Are the pads and polish more effective when the pad is on the dry side or the wet side? I'd assume dry as a wet pad would act like coolant against the paint and not allow any correction, but if the pad is dry that's when the powdering happens.

 

And as far as keeping the pad flush against the surface I can be guilty as charged with that since I have some curved surfaces near trim and transitions that will cause parts of the pad to leave the surface. But there were plenty of times with the dry powder that I would still be in full contact with the surface.

[Team Adam's]

If the conditions are cool, the panel is relatively flat, and you get dusting the only other possible source is too much product.

 

How much polish are you putting on the pad to start, and then how much are you adding with each subsequent panel? How large of an area are you working each time?

[Derajaman]

 

I usually don't reapply product from section to section since when I apply DS it seems to reactivate the product on the pad just as if I had added product. I usually start with the three pea sized drops on the pad, one shot of DS, then on the next section add a little more product, DS, but usually don't add anymore polish since DS reactivates like I said previously.

 

 

By section, an example would be the upper door section above the "door bump" molding, much like you have on your Avalanche since the TB is really close to that. Once the product flashes is usually when I see the powder show up. I'll stop and spray the pad with a single serving of DS and start on the next section (or redo the first section if I feel it needs it) and as long as the product is the same consistency as the first time applied I won't add any product. If spraying with DS results in a very thin layer, basically flashing off instantly, I'll stop and add only one or two pea sized drops.

[Team Adam's]

Are you crossing panel gaps or raised surfaces?

 

Since you're in Colorado it might be a good idea to drop by the warehouse one of these days and have the boss or one of the team give you a one on one coaching session to identify where you're running into the issue and why.

[Derajaman]

I have a feeling that could be part of the problem. Most of the application is on the smooth flat surface, but the body paneling does curve near the windows which could be where the pad is leaving the surface. I may need to do a one on one especially when it comes to the non flat surfaces on the cars. The videos are great help, but mostly reference flat surfaces like the trunk lid and hood. I'm also afraid of using more product as most of the time the motto is, "A little goes a long way" but hopefully my problems aren't associated with too little product. On this last detail (the TB) I would use the 4" focus pads on the PC for smaller and "curvy" sections so I could minimize this but still had powder.

 

Is the correction of the paint more attributed to the "grit" of the polish and pad and/or the heat it generates?

[Team Adam's]

Paint correction has very little to do with heat... heat is a byproduct of polishing and polishing is an act of friction, but the heat isn't what gets the job done. If you could do a job with zero heat generation it would be ideal, but the rules of physics dictate there is going to be SOME heat generated if you're rubbing things together.

[Derajaman]

I figured that was the case, but wanted to make sure, as I could see the polishing being either smoothing the surface due to filling gaps with material or removing the surface as little as possible to make it flush, or if this was done by morphing the paint with heat. The first seems more likely safer, and easier haha!

 

If using good pressure on surface scratches and marring with several passes with the most aggresive pad/polish isn't removing them, this wouldn't be because of not using enough product correct? Would too much pressure cause premature drying?

[Team Adam's]

Heat generation with the PC is minimal... its really quite difficult to get it to build up any significant amount of heat.

 

Not seeing results can be any number of things - too much product, not enough product. Working too short, working too long. too much pressure, not enough pressure. Hard to say without seeing your process in person.

[Derajaman]

Good points, thanks for your help Dylan! I guess it's practice practice practice.

[CrawlinTBSS]

Im going to guess my issue is maybe too much polish.

 

My details that ive had this issue with the car wasnt hot. both cars where washed the nite before and then left indoors overnite to completely dry.

 

i did a fairly medium to large but thin lined X on my pad. whenever ive reapplied polish ive done another X. im guessing that is too much? i do reprime the pad with DS when i can tell theres still good polish to use after a set or two.

[Fit08]

You need to clear the pad frequently. I clean it after I work every set. I just use a tire type brush with relatively stiff bristles, turn the PC to speed 3, and run the bristles along the pad and you'll see dust fly! The pad will bite like it's supposed to after this.

 

Hmm, I find this odd from the stand point there is no way my gen 2 pads would stay on while attempting this. Also the Adams crew say to spin pad free air will damage the velcro system??