GTAHVIT Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 Got a question as a first time PC user. I've got a similar situation... emx620 in this thread. http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/13711.htm?highlight=holograms All I've done to the car with the PC is the SHR, and I have something similar to emx620 going on... In direct sunlight, I have one or two vertical lines parallel to each other that move in the opposite direction as I am. So if I'm standing on the passenger side facing the car and slide to the front bumper, the lines move to the rear. and vice versa.... I wanted to ask you guys if this is normal? and I should continue on with FMP? I'll post some pics here in a few, need to move the car so it's in some direct sunlight. I planned on finishing up the polishing with some BG then BW... Thoughts? Thanks!
GTAHVIT Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 Well. for a first timer... I'm feeling pretty good about it... The car was pretty clean so I carefully used Junkmans WW method and got the car ready for the PC. First was SHR. I think the biggest key was I had the PC too slow when I tried it a few days ago. This time I started at 5 made sure I had good coverage then made a couple passed at 6. And I used much less product than I did before. Made a huge difference. SOOOOO much easier to wipe off... It was almost like dusting a counter top... Second was FMP... This one kinda had me stumped at first. It was a little harder to tell when it flashed and it seemed like I wasn't using enough product... I kept wanting to add some more FMP than SHR for the same size area... Also it was a little harder to wipe off. But that may have been due to using the same MF towel for both SHR and FMP. And it didn't seem to make much difference at speed 6 vs 5... So I just left it at 5 and took my time The pics I took are after the polishing... sun broke out for a bit so I snapped a couple shots. I ended the day with some BG... The sun was behind the clouds and setting so I couldn't really see the benefit of the BG... but I'm sure I'll be able to tomorrow. I took my time... did the whole car with SHR then did the whole car with FMP... I had to take a few calls from work that cost me a couple hours but I had given myself all day to do it... so it worked out great. Hopefully I'll have some time to apply a couple coats of BW tomorrow after work. I'm looking forward to seeing that combination... last time I tried it I put the BW down first then BG.... Thanks again for being patient with me. I think I got it figured out... Not quite ready to try and do any paint corrections but I can certainly keep mine looking pretty good moving forward.
GTAHVIT Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 Sorry for the tripple post bump... (master level interwebs user....) But before I get the PC back out... I'd like to make double sure you guys don't see anything in that video I should be concerned about.... I'm so embarrassed by the fact that a little machine polish/wax has me so stumped... I've built engines, modded cars my whole life... but the paint stuff has me all wierded out...
Team Adam's Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 So to clarify, that area in the video has never been polished, and was filmed AFTER you stripped with IPA?
GTAHVIT Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 yes sir. there was a bit of condensation on it, the night before while I was wiping down with the alcohol, but not when I shot that video the following day (yesterday). You think my MF was dirty???
Team Adam's Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 No... if you've never polished before it might just be a combination of swirls and maybe some buffing done by the dealer... thats almost a hologram effect, but not quite. Hit it with a pass of FMP on the white pad and I bet its gone or at the least reduced by a lot.
GTAHVIT Posted October 25, 2011 Author Posted October 25, 2011 No... if you've never polished before it might just be a combination of swirls and maybe some buffing done by the dealer... thats almost a hologram effect, but not quite. Hit it with a pass of FMP on the white pad and I bet its gone or at the least reduced by a lot. Will do! Taking the day off tomorrow so I can spend some time getting it right. I'll be posting pics/vid if I need to... thanks again!
Team Adam's Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 Cool. Just based on what I'm seeing it shouldn't need more than FMP so hopefully its a quick easy fix. Keep us posted on the results!
mc2hill Posted October 25, 2011 Posted October 25, 2011 I am sure it won't take too long to correct this, but remember Adam's will be in Daytona over Thanksgiving!
GTAHVIT Posted October 24, 2011 Author Posted October 24, 2011 OK... Keep in mind, the paint is stripped... And the deck lid has never been machine polished.... what do you think... video can be watched in 1080p <object style="height: 390px; width: 640px"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l67CpLFdr-4?version=3&feature=player_detailpage"><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always"><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l67CpLFdr-4?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowScriptAccess="always" width="640" height="360"></object>
ArmyAcadia09 Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 love the way the sun shines off the paint, looks great
Team Adam's Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 Lookin' good man! Seems you got a handle on it, and much like anything else the more you do it the better you'll get. Practice makes perfect holds very true with this stuff. As for the speed thing... you figured out something on your own I like to touch on when I run a clinic. The PCXP speed settings go from 5500opm at setting 5 to 6800opm at setting 6... a jump of 1300opm (not a ton in the grand scheme of things) I find the machine to be much more manageable at setting 5, and it vibrates much less, meaning less hand fatigue. Sure, you might have to spend a minute or 2 longer breaking product down, but the stress on your hands and arms is so much less its worth it.
GTAHVIT Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 Lookin' good man! Seems you got a handle on it, and much like anything else the more you do it the better you'll get. Practice makes perfect holds very true with this stuff. As for the speed thing... you figured out something on your own I like to touch on when I run a clinic. The PCXP speed settings go from 5500opm at setting 5 to 6800opm at setting 6... a jump of 1300opm (not a ton in the grand scheme of things) I find the machine to be much more manageable at setting 5, and it vibrates much less, meaning less hand fatigue. Sure, you might have to spend a minute or 2 longer breaking product down, but the stress on your hands and arms is so much less its worth it. Yeah, at speed 6 it was definitely more of a handfull especailly around edges and creases in body panels.. the PC I was using didn't have the PC adapter plate and the older pads and I spun em off a couple times... I think moving forward I'll just run it at 5 for both Swirl & Haze and Fine machine polish... So is my comparison between SHR and FMP typical... or was I not quite using the FMP correctly? Now that I've got the car in the sunlight I can see a few smudge marks from not wiping off the Brilliant Glaze very well. But it looks great... the metal flake really jumps out in direct sunlight now.
Team Adam's Posted October 27, 2011 Posted October 27, 2011 Yeah, at speed 6 it was definitely more of a handfull especailly around edges and creases in body panels.. the PC I was using didn't have the PC adapter plate and the older pads and I spun em off a couple times... I think moving forward I'll just run it at 5 for both Swirl & Haze and Fine machine polish... So is my comparison between SHR and FMP typical... or was I not quite using the FMP correctly? Now that I've got the car in the sunlight I can see a few smudge marks from not wiping off the Brilliant Glaze very well. But it looks great... the metal flake really jumps out in direct sunlight now. FMP is a little hard to see when you're working, and bc of that its a tad more difficult to determine the flash happening takes some getting used to. Your observations are not unusual for someone just getting their technique dialed in. The more you use it the easier it'll be to 'read' what the polishes are doing. The fact it was harder to remove might have just been b/c you used more product.
GTAHVIT Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 Awesome. I'm gonna have to get my PC kit ordered here pretty quick... Thanks again guys for all the support.
GTAHVIT Posted October 27, 2011 Author Posted October 27, 2011 couple shots of the after applying the Brilliant Glaze
GTAHVIT Posted October 17, 2011 Author Posted October 17, 2011 Home made drag slicks? I like the way you think.... cept it's more like..... She's kinda squirly...
Frid Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 "Those appear more to be smudging, likely from polishing oils and things of that nature, not holograms. Its virtually impossible to introduce holograms with the PC as there is not forced high speed rotation to the pad. Holograms are the result of poor rotary technique. Start by stripping the car, you can use dawn dish soap or a mixture of All Purpose Cleaner and car wash to create an non-neutral strip wash. Once you get all the waxes off of the finish, go ahead and clay the entire car, then work panel by panel. Use less product this go around. Fine Machine Polish is notoriously hard to remove all of if you go too heavy on the product or don't work it fully." This was quoted from Dylan. Give this a shot.
Team Adam's Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 That would be the first thing I'd suggest... fact of the matter is holograming is only really possible from the use of a high speed with bad technique. The PC doesn't really have the capability of holograming a finish so you're most likely dealing with smudging/polishing oils/residues that didn't come off fully. Try to strip part of the problem area with IPA to start... if it doesn't come off then you may just have a couple of spots where you didn't work the polish fully (common for new comers) and it hazed the finish a tad. Hit it again with the process and they should come out. Just address the obvious first and make sure its not something that will come off with IPA
GTAHVIT Posted October 17, 2011 Author Posted October 17, 2011 cool.. after looking at it again while taking some pics, it doesn't seem as bad as it did earlier... The other thing I forgot to mention was I initially was at speed 4 on the PC... then realized I should have been on 5... would slower speeds cause the smudging? or make it harder to wipe to polish off? wait... LOL I'm thinking this through as I type. Tell me if I'm right.... as long as I let the polish flash... the speed shouldn't matter that much??? it just won't cut as well at 4 as it does at 5?
Team Adam's Posted October 17, 2011 Posted October 17, 2011 The other thing I forgot to mention was I initially was at speed 4 on the PC... then realized I should have been on 5... would slower speeds cause the smudging? or make it harder to wipe to polish off? yes and no... its gonna take a long time to break stuff down at 4 vs. 5 b/c thats a good amount of drop off in speed, so odds are you'd see the polish dry out before it had a chance to flash in many cases. I'd say no lower than 5 for your next go around and you'd have less of an issue. Plus at such a low speed like 4 its really hard to put down the appropriate amount of pressure on the pad to get effective polishing without fully stalling the pad rotation out. If you do get appropriate rotation your pressure is probably too light for the pad to make good contact. General Rules to Follow: Settings 1-3 good for spreading/applying Setting 4 good for 4" pad work Setting 5-6 good for polishing
GTAHVIT Posted October 17, 2011 Author Posted October 17, 2011 yes and no... its gonna take a long time to break stuff down at 4 vs. 5 b/c thats a good amount of drop off in speed, so odds are you'd see the polish dry out before it had a chance to flash in many cases. I'd say no lower than 5 for your next go around and you'd have less of an issue. Plus at such a low speed like 4 its really hard to put down the appropriate amount of pressure on the pad to get effective polishing without fully stalling the pad rotation out. If you do get appropriate rotation your pressure is probably too light for the pad to make good contact. General Rules to Follow: Settings 1-3 good for spreading/applying Setting 4 good for 4" pad work Setting 5-6 good for polishing sweet! Thanks very much! Here's the best pics I could take at lunch... Doesn't really show what I'm seeing...
Question
GTAHVIT
Got a question as a first time PC user.
I've got a similar situation... emx620 in this thread.
http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/machine-polishing/13711.htm?highlight=holograms
All I've done to the car with the PC is the SHR, and I have something similar to emx620 going on...
In direct sunlight, I have one or two vertical lines parallel to each other that move in the opposite direction as I am.
So if I'm standing on the passenger side facing the car and slide to the front bumper, the lines move to the rear. and vice versa....
I wanted to ask you guys if this is normal? and I should continue on with FMP?
I'll post some pics here in a few, need to move the car so it's in some direct sunlight.
I planned on finishing up the polishing with some BG then BW...
Thoughts?
Thanks!
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