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ticaaal70
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I just did a full paint correction on my car and it looked amazing after i finished. For about a week. We had a bad dust storm here and it left alot of dirt on my car and it sat over night. Well the next evening I went to wash my car. My grit guards didnt fit my buckets.. So i washed the car not using the 2 bucket wash.. Well bad idea im guessing. I still used the two buckets but without the grit guard. Used adams car wash trio kit to wash the car. But after the wash... BOOM swirl city again!!! :(

 

Heres a before the paint correction

WP_000615.jpg

and after

WP_000616.jpg

Heres how it looked after the wash after the night of the sandstorm.

WP_000648.jpg

 

You can see on the fender that the swirls came back. Ill take better pics tommorow. All that work for nothing. What do you guys suggest I do?

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Did you wax the paint after correction? MSS gives a good layer of protection.

 

Also, all paint damage occurs when you contact the paint. This means you damaged the paint during the last wash. Two Buckets w/ Grit Guards are essential to swirl free paint. A foam gun might help in your situation where you daily drive the vehicle and dirt builds up on a regular basis.

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Yes I added a Layer of Machine Super Wax then let it sit overnight to cure and then added Glaze and Americana Combo to it.

 

Do you guys suggest I redo the whole process to remove the swirls again?? I miss my swirl free finish already =(.

 

Ill be grabbing a foam gun soon then and big enough buckets for my grit guards to fit into.

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Good evidence for why grit guards are such an important part of SAFE washing procedures.

 

Also, in the future, spend more time in the pre-rinse steps. If it was just dust the majority of it should have been easy to knock loose if you spent more time with a hard pressure stream from the hose.

 

I find that a lot of people neglect this step in washing. They wet the car, but don't really do much beyond that. Most grit thats settled on the finish can be dislodged and knocked loose if you spend a bit more time in the pre-rinse.

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in the future, spend more time in the pre-rinse steps. If it was just dust the majority of it should have been easy to knock loose if you spent more time with a hard pressure stream from the hose.

 

I find that a lot of people neglect this step in washing. They wet the car, but don't really do much beyond that. Most grit thats settled on the finish can be dislodged and knocked loose if you spend a bit more time in the pre-rinse.

 

:iagree:

 

pre-rinse is important; power wash, foam, power wash again.

 

THEN two bucket wash it.

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If it was just dust the majority of it should have been easy to knock loose if you spent more time with a hard pressure stream from the hose.

 

:iagree: 110% Getting a majority of the dirt, dust and other chunks off the paint or at least loosened is key. I find that on small/average sized cars, I can spend as much time blasting/foaming as I do washing with the pad if the car isn't trashed. I move quick with the wash pad, cover the entire car and get to drying ASAP so there are fewer issues with the rest of the process.

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Good evidence for why grit guards are such an important part of SAFE washing procedures.

 

Also, in the future, spend more time in the pre-rinse steps. If it was just dust the majority of it should have been easy to knock loose if you spent more time with a hard pressure stream from the hose.

 

I find that a lot of people neglect this step in washing. They wet the car, but don't really do much beyond that. Most grit thats settled on the finish can be dislodged and knocked loose if you spend a bit more time in the pre-rinse.

 

I have found that the pre-rinse is as important or more important than almost any other step. I spend about as much time on the pre-rinse than I do the actual wash. Will usually walk around the car twice doing the pre-rinse with the fire nozzle in a fairly pointed stream. All of our nice wash pads and soap/foam isn't going to stop swirls if there is grit all over the car.

 

Also, be sure to rinse the pads regularly. Depending on the level of dirt on the car and the size of the panels I will usually flip a pad after one panel and then after the 2nd panel rinse the wash pad.

 

Also be careful how you use the wash pads, don't use swirling motions. Use single direction motions, this will greatly reduce the swirls. I think this was in the Adam's DVD.

 

Detailing is part science and part art form.

 

Get the buckets for your grit guards! :cheers:

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Do you guys suggest I redo the whole process of removing the old wax again, swirl haze remover, polish, and then wax it again? Or can i just use the swirl and haze remover and then reapply a new coat of wax and be done with it? How should i go forth doing this?

 

To to tell you guys the truth, no i dont think i really spent time in the pre rinse cycle. I only went over it with a fire hose attachment and at medium spray. I was short on time so i think i kinda rushed the wash.

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Do you guys suggest I redo the whole process of removing the old wax again, swirl haze remover, polish, and then wax it again? Or can i just use the swirl and haze remover and then reapply a new coat of wax and be done with it? How should i go forth doing this?

 

If you going to correct the car again, you will get the best results if you remove the wax and MSS. Either do a wash with Dawn or wash it with Adam's Car Wash Shampoo and wipe each panel with an IPA & water mix.

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I have done this same type of thing.

 

I just got into machine polishing and figured after I went over my whole car with the PC, it was bullet proof. I washed it in a car wash and dried in off with some synthetic dryer towels. I rubbed all over the paint thinking it was gonna look as good as before. All that rubbing swirled the CRAP out of my clear coat because I didn't really have the paint all THAT clean.

 

It seems that nobody mentioned it, but you MIGHT consider my mistake as well.

 

After correcting my paint and seeing how great it CAN look and all the compliments, I cannot handle having my car swirled out.

 

What has been seen, cannot be unseen. haha

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Do you guys suggest I redo the whole process of removing the old wax again, swirl haze remover, polish, and then wax it again? Or can i just use the swirl and haze remover and then reapply a new coat of wax and be done with it? How should i go forth doing this?

 

 

 

Yea, Go orange/orange SHR....Fine Machine Polish/White pad, then...(what Im gonna do) Sealant, Glaze, Wax. Or just wax as the final step.

 

I swear my PC goes "TICAL!" when I turn that sucker on:pc:

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This maybe a stupid question, but did you check the paint after the dust storm? I mean did you notice some of the damage came from the dust. Dust in wind you get sand blasting. I definitely agree you ALWAYS want to use the grit guards, but maybe some of the damage came from the storm.

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also,

 

what kind of microfiber towels are you using to dry/buff?

 

i've used over the counter, some from other online detailing sites, then the Adam's. my Adam's microfibers are now the only ones that touch the paint, because they are quite simply the best i've ever used! all my other towels are now used for the interior, engine, exhaust, and wheels

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If you are going to correct the paint again, you will need to strip off the sealant and or any wax on it (it can clog up the pad a bit) to allow the PC to work at it's best.

 

It was a hard way to learn, but, on the upside, your polishing skills will be better this time! We've all been there, no worries. ( I am now very careful when washing the car).

 

Two wash pads (one for upper, one for lower) two buckets, each with a grit guard in the bottom. Use one side of the wash pad per panel, rinsing often in the clear rinse water and scrubbing both sides of the pad well on the grit guard each time in each bucket. You get used to it. When in doubt, rinse the wash pad. Being careful washing means you don't' have to do correction as often esp. on Daily Drivers.

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