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Old Cars


Laguna

Question

Got a buddy with an old 1965 Buick Riviera Base.

 

I've never done an older car. Does this car have clearcoat? Unfortunately it looks like back to the nooby stage for me when it comes to older vehicles.

 

What can I use and not use?

 

Car has sat for the last at minimum 20 years and has been driven twice in the last 2 months after mechanical work for the last year as a project car. I haven't seen it in person yet to inspect how the paint looks up close.

 

The engine and underneath needs a lot of cleaning up. What is best to use and what is best to protect? My goal is to get this baby as clean as possible and get it to win a show!

 

Picture since I know some people will want to see it:

 

 

VZI1X.jpg

iHDYr.jpg

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Your best bet is to take an old hand applicator. Try some SHR in an inconspicuous spot. See if you get color transfer. If you do, well you know it's single stage and should approach it so. If there is correction to be done on single stAge it will be easy but you WILL kill your pads. Keep that in mind. Otherwise treat it like any other job. 2x2 section to grab your math equation for the cAr, then execute it.

 

:)

Mook

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No advice, other than to approach cautiously as Mook stated, but I LOVE 65 Rivieras. My Dad had a gold one and black Gran Sport that my youngest brother still owns. A bagged beauty that I would love to see him Adam-ize!

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Your best bet is to take an old hand applicator. Try some SHR in an inconspicuous spot. See if you get color transfer. If you do, well you know it's single stage and should approach it so. If there is correction to be done on single stAge it will be easy but you WILL kill your pads. Keep that in mind. Otherwise treat it like any other job. 2x2 section to grab your math equation for the cAr, then execute it.

 

:)

Mook

 

So basically it's the same regardless but if it's single stage, the only difference is that correction will be much faster and I will ruin the pads I use?

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So basically it's the same regardless but if it's single stage, the only difference is that correction will be much faster and I will ruin the pads I use?

 

Yes. There is not a clear coat, so you are really correcting the paint. And the paint will transfer to the pads, and may not come out when cleaned.

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Easiest might be Dupli Color makes a aerosol rubberized undercoating. I used it on my truck in the rear wheel wells, Undercarriage spray works great on keeping it fresh.

I was going to mention Road House too, and Patrick Swayze's line, "If the lights work I'll take it." I guess you have to know '65 Rivvys to laugh at the line.

Bruce

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I love the lights and grill on those Rivieras.

A lot will depend on how it was stored, but as others have mentioned, expect a fair amount of oxidized paint (transfer). And when in doubt, do the least aggressive correction method/product and go from there.

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Our deal is currently that he has to buy all the detailing equipment for his vehicle and I get to keep whatever is not used for doing it. I also share my name for any trophies, haha.

 

So my shopping cart total is: $374.42

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Our deal is currently that he has to buy all the detailing equipment for his vehicle and I get to keep whatever is not used for doing it. I also share my name for any trophies, haha.

 

So my shopping cart total is: $374.42

You know you need a new Flex to do it right, right? :2thumbs:

Bruce

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