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NEW COMPOUNDS

GaryW

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Chewy
Chewy

I believe the plan is to wait until you place your order, and then release the new polishes.   

Team Adam's
Team Adam's

Guys, ALL of your questions will be answered when they are offically released.

THE Mook
THE Mook

We are in the final stages of approval for these.  What's the mean to the End User?  You could see this as soon as the end of the month, or you could see this as soon as the end of the year!  We have

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egott_91

egott_91

Posted
Posted

Right now I use M105, cuts very well , then follow with M205 then SSHR down.

Love to see a bottle of compound that says Adam's.

 

 

Kevin

That seems like overkill... You shouldn't need to use SSHR or SHR after the M105/205. If anything you should only need to use FMP if anything at all after the 205. When I did my brothers CTS-V last summer I did 105 followed by FMP and it turned out about 95% corrected.

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Chewy

Chewy

Posted
Posted

Will this replace SHR and FMP?

 

I am willing to try this, and compare it with M105/M205 combo.

 

I been using using M205 for 5 years, and have not yet seen a product better than in terms of finish and ease of use it brings.

Yes!  I believe that's the case.  

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gencoupe3dot8

gencoupe3dot8

Posted
Posted (edited)

M101 finishes down with awesomeness... and dusts WAY less than 105... and is now available in the US (It wasn't about a year or so ago).

 

If this is the target.. I will be VERY excited... also to have this works with MF disks or to have Adams carry the Rupes 21 would make my year...

Edited by gencoupe3dot8
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MrHot88

MrHot88

Posted
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Let me explain.

 

I'm talking about a very neglected , abused car, after using m105 and m205 I then use the SSHR to begin the "polishing", it doesn't have as much cut at the m stuff, but it's the best polish on the market.

 

This 2005 Ford Ranch 4x4 I'm working on this weekend is in pretty bad shape, very dull, it will take a lot of polishing to get the shine I want.

FMP won't get rid of the small sc

 

I'm not working on a car that's near perfect.

I'm using a high speed rotary btw on the first two steps, the rest is all Adam's and my OC

Kevin

 

 

 

 

That seems like overkill... You shouldn't need to use SSHR or SHR after the M105/205. If anything you should only need to use FMP if anything at all after the 205. When I did my brothers CTS-V last summer I did 105 followed by FMP and it turned out about 95% corrected.

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Mark L

Mark L

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm anxious to see what they release as well.

 

Possibly some new pads too?

 

I've been using 3M compounds for years to get the really tough scratches out. It worked wonders on a 2001 Mercedes CLK320 that my Aunt left me when she passed last summer. The paint was brutal! Now it looks like new. Amazing what a true compound and the right pad with a rotary polisher can do :D

Edited by Mark L
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MrHot88

MrHot88

Posted
Posted

I agree with you.

A good compound is needed at times, no way around it, like the truck imworking on now, neglected.

Then I'll do a good FMP, BG and wax.

So far it's making a big difference.

The 4 inch Focus pads got rid of the deeper scratches.

 

Kevin

 

 

 

I'm anxious to see what they release as well.

 

Possibly some new pads too?

 

I've been using 3M compounds for years to get the really tough scratches out. It worked wonders on a 2001 Mercedes CLK320 that my Aunt left me when she passed last summer. The paint was brutal! Now it looks like new. Amazing what a true compound and the right pad with a rotary polisher can do :D

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gencoupe3dot8

gencoupe3dot8

Posted
Posted

Many folks were using rotary polishers and large wool or foam pads, this almost always meant using another polish after, usually on a DA to take out the buffer trails from the rotary pass.  (Many bodies shops still use rotataries and wool pads, which sometimes results in cars coming out of body shops with buffer trails, some dealer detailers also use this method).  Using smaller pads and different polishes, a detailer can often finish down to jeweling with a rotary, given the right polish(es) and pads.  (M101 can be worked to pre-LSP, given the right pad and speeds)

 

Of course a new trend is to use larger throw DAs like the Rupes (with different pads, like MF) and a good cutting polish to make the need for rotaries deminish.  We live in fun times for detailers!  It will be interesting to see what Adams comes out with.

 

What has always been precious for me is TIME.  GIven my current job and life situation, my time is always at a premium.  My research and focus has been to get the best result in the shortest amount of time... safely.  SO far that has led me to move from the PC, to Flex, to a rotary, and use what is needed for the defects at hand.   So I'll continue to monitor Adams as they bring a more agressive polish system to market.

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MrHot88

MrHot88

Posted
Posted

You and me both, the Flex rotary maybe the best rotary out there right now.

2100 RPM's which is the perfect speed to polish, well 1500-1800 but all the same it can turn at 2100.

It weights only about 5 pounds but pricy, 450.00.

Kevin

 

 

 

I spy the Flex Rotary! :D

 

Finally some rotary love from Adam's........ so pumped now

 

981780_521206324602808_677756301_o.jpg

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Mark L

Mark L

Posted
Posted

You and me both, the Flex rotary maybe the best rotary out there right now.

2100 RPM's which is the perfect speed to polish, well 1500-1800 but all the same it can turn at 2100.

It weights only about 5 pounds but pricy, 450.00.

Kevin

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah pricey, but it'll come with a lifetime warranty if purchased through Adam's.

 

I've been using a Makita 9227C for years and while I love it, it can become very heavy under long polishing sessions. The Flex rotary only weighs 5 lbs and is easier to maneuver from what I hear.

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Mark L

Mark L

Posted
Posted (edited)

What about rotary noobs? Will we screw up some clears bad with the rotary? Best to stay with the forced rotation random orbital?

 

Well yes and no.

 

I self taught myself how to rotary polish. I used a PC at first, but got impatient with the time it took to correct defects. Mostly, I went to a rotary because I was color matching some interior pieces of my old Tahoe and had colorsanded them. I used a rotary to get the shine and gloss back and started that way. I then moved to other body panels and the rest was history. 

 

As long as you move the rotary continually and don't stay in 1 spot for an extended period of time, you're ok. I use the "Pinnacle" method while rotary polishing, it's where you start at speed 1 (usually 900 rpms), then work your way up to speed 2 (1200 rpms), then up to speed 3 (1500 rpms), then back down to 2, and down to 1. So you're going from low rpms up to higher and back down, thus the Pinnacle method.

 

It works extremely well. I was able to take out 12 years of scratches, RIDs, microhazing, etc on a 2001 Mercedes CLK 320 with 200K+ miles that my late Aunt left me. I got the silver paint looking like new. 

Edited by Mark L
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