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What LSP does the clay remove?


Mooser

Question

For the wife's DD. The only thing I've ever put on the car was a coat of HGG about a month or so ago. There might be some wax or sealant from some previous time in the car's life but I don't know and it's been some time since it's had anything other than just touchless car washes (and it doesn't get those anymore)

 

Prior to the HGG the water just sat there all blotched and whatever, after the HGG, beaded like crazy but the paint needed work, (really I just wanted to try the HGG as soon as I got it)

 

Anyway, after finally managing to get my wife's DD clay-barred, then rewashed and dried (no detail spray or anything) and had to quit for the night. There was another delay before I can get to some correction work.

Here I am 5 days later, looking out at it in the rain, I see that there is still beading action going on, pretty good beading actually with trails where it's running off.

 

I was really expecting the clay to pretty much wipe out the HGG but it didn't seem to.

 

 

If you did a clay treatment and for whatever reason, were not going to do a correction, how far back into the process would you go?

Re-Seal?

Re-Glaze?

Re-Wax? (buttery or paste)

 

Just curios 

M

 

 

 

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Clean paint will bead with no LSP on it. It won't sheet off as well as it would with sealant or wax though. Here is a pic right after decon. and clay.

5F542A4A-B2C2-4E64-9B88-000FBE825134.jpg

 

If you aren't going to polish, you should at least glaze then seal/wax IMO.

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For the wife's DD. The only thing I've ever put on the car was a coat of HGG about a month or so ago. There might be some wax or sealant from some previous time in the car's life but I don't know and it's been some time since it's had anything other than just touchless car washes (and it doesn't get those anymore)

 

Prior to the HGG the water just sat there all blotched and whatever, after the HGG, beaded like crazy but the paint needed work, (really I just wanted to try the HGG as soon as I got it)

 

Anyway, after finally managing to get my wife's DD clay-barred, then rewashed and dried (no detail spray or anything) and had to quit for the night. There was another delay before I can get to some correction work.

Here I am 5 days later, looking out at it in the rain, I see that there is still beading action going on, pretty good beading actually with trails where it's running off.

 

I was really expecting the clay to pretty much wipe out the HGG but it didn't seem to.

 

 

If you did a clay treatment and for whatever reason, were not going to do a correction, how far back into the process would you go?

Re-Seal?

Re-Glaze?

Re-Wax? (buttery or paste)

 

Just curios

 

M

I would apply a coat of LPS and after 3 or 4 weeks apply a coat of HGG.
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Clean paint will bead with no LSP on it. It won't sheet off as well as it would with sealant or wax though. Here is a pic right after decon. and clay.

 

If you aren't going to polish, you should at least glaze then seal/wax IMO.

 

That's pretty close to what I'm getting now, guess I've never left one "just clayed" before

 

A thorough claying should remove all of Adam's LSP's.

 

Which is more along the lines of what I would have thought, not sure about the machine sealant but wax and somehow the HGG I thought would go 

 

I would apply a coat of LPS and after 3 or 4 weeks apply a coat of HGG.

 

It's getting a mild/medium correction as soon as the planets align and give me a couple of days between rain and stupidly high humidity, then I'll hit it with sealant, maybe a buttery for therapeutic purposed 

 

Thanks

M

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The DS itself (used for clay lube) will also cause water to bead. You can wipe the panels down with a 1:1 mix of IPA if you want a fully stripped surface, but if you plan to polish or anything then it won't matter as the remaining stuff on the surface will be wiped out then.

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