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New Daily Driver Detailer from the Frozen North (Maine)


ChevyGuy
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Hello All,

 

I just took delivery of a brand new black truck on 4/1 (I hope the joke isnt on me haha). Its a 2016 Chevy Colorado LT Midnight Edition which for me is a pretty big deal being my first new vehicle. This will be my daily driver and sadly I do not have a garage. Also with a wife and 3 kids I cant spend endless hours on my truck like I want to. So after scouring the internet I landed on this website and started watching adams videos. Now I come to the forums to verify / validate my research before I place an order. :-)

 

What I want to accomplish: Keeping my car as nice as possible and avoiding the evil swirl marks on my new black truck. I will likely be able to wash once a week (twice at most) outside and be able to invest 1:15 to 1:30 at most. The vehicle is brand new inside and out as what I hope is a good starting point.

 

Exterior:

 

Adams Daily Driver Kit (as followed by videos) with the following additions:

+1 Bucket w/ Grit Guard so I can do the two bucket wash method

+Wheel Woolie (as per video but not in kit)

+Adams New Wheel Cleaner (noted in video to work better)

 

Are there any other additions that would really help me out? I should be good to just start in on this as the exterior is brand new? No other prep?

 

I also have a leather tonneau cover? What should I use on that to protect it from the sun/elements?

 

Interior: 

 

Adams Basic Total Interior Detailer Kit: As the car is brand new its clean inside so I am hoping if I start using this immediately I should need no other products? Note, I only have the cloth interior so no leather to worry about.

 

What about the inside windshield? Anything special?

 

Thank you for your time and I truly appreciate your help. 

 

-Justin

 

 

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LT I assume has no leather? If so it sounds like your on the right track.

 

You're going to want some VRT and a block sponge for all your exterior trim.

 

Also going to want some Tire Shine and a block sponge for your tires.

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Sounds like you're on the right track. I have a 2016 Silverado Double Cab, before that it was a 2014 Sierra Double Cab. These big trucks take some time to detail so start early on a saturday and give your self plenty of time, nothing good comes from rushing through a detail.

 

The DD kit looks like a good deal, don't skip the clay bar. I would consider adding some liquid paint sealant twice a year and applying  and honestly if you can spare about 4 hours twice a year it would really be worth it at some point to give the truck a good polish with something like a porter cable da polisher and  adams paint correcting polish and paint finishing polish. If you do the washing right you shouldn't need the paint correcting polish every time.

Edited by imcrazy
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The daily driver kit is what I initially bought. Excellent choice there ball your basic tools cleaners etc needed for a daily driver. The addition of a second bucket and hurled is nice for the 2 bucket wash.

Only addition I made to the daily driver kit is the liquid paint sealer and the glass sealer. These 3 kits do wonders for daily drivers.

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LT I assume has no leather? If so it sounds like your on the right track.

 

You're going to want some VRT and a block sponge for all your exterior trim.

 

Also going to want some Tire Shine and a block sponge for your tires.

You are correct that its cloth interior. 

 

Thank you for the advice I just added the following to the order:

VRT

Tire Shine

2x VRT Super Block 

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Sounds like you're on the right track. I have a 2016 Silverado Double Cab, before that it was a 2014 Sierra Double Cab. These big trucks take some time to detail so start early on a saturday and give your self plenty of time, nothing good comes from rushing through a detail.

 

The DD kit looks like a good deal, don't skip the clay bar. I would consider adding some liquid paint sealant twice a year and applying  and honestly if you can spare about 4 hours twice a year it would really be worth it at some point to give the truck a good polish with something like a porter cable da polisher and  adams paint correcting polish and paint finishing polish. If you do the washing right you shouldn't need the paint correcting polish every time.

Thanks for the advice. My plan is to get the basics down and after a few months revisit to expand my care regimen. I am starting at level zero here so its going to be a climb. To be honest half the terms used here are over my head! 

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The daily driver kit is what I initially bought. Excellent choice there ball your basic tools cleaners etc needed for a daily driver. The addition of a second bucket and hurled is nice for the 2 bucket wash.

Only addition I made to the daily driver kit is the liquid paint sealer and the glass sealer. These 3 kits do wonders for daily drivers.

 

 

If you're going to do the Paint Sealer, skip the microfiber pad and go straight for the Red Hex applicator.

 

 

I thought the H20 Guard was a paint sealer? Whats the difference between that and the liquid paint sealer?  :blink:

 

How and when would I work this into my routine?

Edited by ChevyGuy
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Welcome Justin,

As mentioned you are off to a good start, and I also recommend the VRT and Tire Shine with the foam block applicators. VRT will also work on your cover.

Already in the shopping cart! This isnt going to be cheap haha.

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H2O G&G is technically a sealant. Paint Sealant (formerly known as Liquid Paint Sealant) is a longer lasting item. H2O, depending on it's exposure to the elements will only last you a month or two. Paint Sealant is  about 6 months. 

You're fine with H2O G&G if you're going to wash at least once a month. It'll provide plenty of protection. 

 

As far as the block vs. hex grip. I've tried the hex grip on my tires once, and I just wasn't a fan. I like the block much better for my tires. Your mileage may vary. 

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Once you have your 2 bucket wash technique down, you may want to look at trying Rinseless wash.  It can cut your wash time in half - you wash & dry a panel at a time.  I can easily do a Rinseless wash on our Accord in 25 minutes.

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H2O G&G is technically a sealant. Paint Sealant (formerly known as Liquid Paint Sealant) is a longer lasting item. H2O, depending on it's exposure to the elements will only last you a month or two. Paint Sealant is about 6 months.

 

You're fine with H2O G&G if you're going to wash at least once a month. It'll provide plenty of protection.

 

As far as the block vs. hex grip. I've tried the hex grip on my tires once, and I just wasn't a fan. I like the block much better for my tires. Your mileage may vary.

Yup. What he said. He beat me to it...and honestly he has a lot more experience than me. So I personally listen to what he says. I have learned a few things about detailing from him.

For me.. I have a very dark blue daily driver truck that is parked outside 100% of the time. And fellow Northeaster. I use the PS as a base. And HGG as a topper. I use VRT on exterior plastic trim and my tonnoue cover. Glass sealant. Tire shine for tires. I like to have the extra protection the sealant gives. HGG helps with protection as well but also protects the PS. So at least in my mind the PS will have the best "survivability" of its lifespan (Aprox 6 months).

No complaints from me on this regimen.

Edited by Firebuff17
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Well I just pulled the trigger on my order...ohh lord I hope I am home and not my wife when this comes. If she every found out how much I spent on detailing supplies I would be in for it! :D

 

Order placed for the following:

 

  • Adam's Daily Driver Detailing Kit
  • Adam's Wheel Woolie
  • Adam's VRT Super Block Tire Dressing Applicator x 2
  • Adam's Tire Shine 16oz
  • Adam's Gamma Seal & Grit Guard Car Wash Bucket
  • Adam's Basic Total Interior Detailer Kit
  • Adam's Winter Prep Paint & Glass Kit (Basically Paint Sealant & Glass Sealant)
  • Adam's NEW Wheel Cleaner 16oz
  • Adam's Super VRT Tire & Trim Dressing 16oz
  • Adam's Red Waxing Hex Grip Applicator

I truly appreciate all the help so far and I hope I can repay the favor to some going forward as I learn more.

 

A little later today ill put together what I see are the steps for the 1st wash and then subsequent maintenance cleanings to make sure I am doing this right. :willy:

 

-Justin

Edited by ChevyGuy
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Once you have your 2 bucket wash technique down, you may want to look at trying Rinseless wash.  It can cut your wash time in half - you wash & dry a panel at a time.  I can easily do a Rinseless wash on our Accord in 25 minutes.

 

Justin looks like you have a good start with the products you ordered.  This post by mc2hill is spot on. Esp since you have a busy life with the wife and kids like many of us.  Once you get the vehicle cleaned with a regular wash and a good sealant (No point really to use a wax these days on a Daily Driver) it's fairly easy and quick to maintain with a rinseless wash and then using H20 GG as a drying aid.  Takes me about a half hour to do a rinseless/H20 combo and a bit longer if I clean my wheels.  You can swap H20 and detail spray when drying every other or every two rinseless washes depending on your frequency

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Welcome to the forums from a little south of ya. 

 

I think you have a solid plan laid out for yourself. I would def take a look at the videos that Adams has out, especially the winter washing ones as you will need those for a lot of your time up there. 

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Well...tis a sad and frustrating update. Long story short I spilled paint in the bed of my new truck and had to wash it all out. I was in a bit of a "panic" over the condition of my truck and decided to try to do a wash. It was sunny, cold, dry and windy... This is probably 99% of my problem.

 

Things when OK until the detail spray. After rinsing the soap off I applied detail spray to keep it from spotting but it did like a mofo. Even with the spray it dried out before I could clay everything (used almost a whole bottle fighting this while claying). This is especially true on the glass and hood. Also I had trouble with the guard and gloss. I now know after watching the videos I used way to much (like 70% of a bottle) and my towel was too wet. The side in the shade came out ok-ish but the the rest was ****. 

 

Now I have a million little white specs all over the tail gate and left rear panel?  They are on the surface and can be removed with a little effort. I assume this is something from my failure coming back to haunt me? How to I avoid these? I really hope its not a huge problem because that would just crush me at this point.

 

In Summary:

 

1) Don't detail while frustrated if you can avoid it

2) Detail in proper weather conditions 

 

My question: What are my new little while specs and how do I avoid them?

 

Thanks,

 

-Justin

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Justin,

First of all, take a deep breath for a second. This forum is full of smart people with good ideas.

 

Secondly, nothing Adam's sell is going to ruin your paint. None of its that strong except maybe APC, so just rest easy.

 

I'm going to see what other say but my initial thoughts are a good strip wash and clay are probably in order. 

A strip wash is 2oz of APC in your bucket of soap. This should break down everything that you've put on and between this and the clay should take you back to a good starting point of bare clear coat.

 

I would do a strip wash, clay, and then a regular wash. With these washes you want to make sure you're working in favorable conditions,and just take your time. I always like to have a plan in my head before I ever turn the hose on. I'm going to XYZ, then ABC, then 123. I keep my environment in mind with my sequence. I've forgone wheels and tires because i knew I only had enough shade to do a regular wash. I can fake the wheels and tires in the garage with some throw-down microfibers. 

 

After your regular wash, then I would apply H2O guard and gloss. 30% of the bottle should be plenty but order a second bottle if you want to be safe. 

 

If you want a more economical clay lube, pick up a 16oz bottle of rineseless wash. Diluted anywhere between 1:16 and 1:32 makes an excellent and economical clay lube. 

 

Lets see what some of the others have to say, but if it were me this is what I would do. 

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A picture of said white spots might allow for some more specific answers and possible solutions. 

 

I would #1 take a step back, other than the paint spill nothing permanent has happened here, so far as I could tell from your information. 

 

Again without seeing things, I would tend to think that using the clay on the paint would take most if not all of it off without an issue. You could also do a full correction to the area if you have the materials. 

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