More Silly Coating Questions...

[galaxy]

OK, sorry for all the questions, but I've decided to make the plunge.

 

-appllicators...how many do you go through? How long, or how many sections/passes willl a side of the applicator pad last? Assume you guys rotate and use all four sides on a pad? Can you tell when it's running out of usefulness? Like does it start to get hard or crystallize on the pad?

 

-prep...after you've polished and have the surface ready, is there anything you should between polish and coating prep spray? Or will the prep spray remove all the oils and such leaving the surface completely clean and ready?

 

-boost...the boost is the same for wheel and paint coating? To same some money, I bought the paint kit and then only the single bottle of wheel coating!

 

-how many pads would you have at the ready for a small car and two sets of wheels?

 

Thanks a million guys. This has been a challenging hurdle to bring myself to this point emotionally, and I would not have made it this far without you guys as a support group!!! Hahhahahha.

[galaxy]

Two more...

 

-what are the indications the coating has lived its useful life; same as a wax or any other product?

 

-what about repairs? For some reason you get scratches or something you need to polish out or work on; do you just recoat that one area? Overlap it any?

 

-coats...do you guys ever do multiple coats just because? Does it add any depth or anything to do two?

[Hupp2it]

I just did the ceramic paint coating not long ago. While I can't answer all the questions I'll take a stab at a couple

 

- applicators:  I used two sides of one applicator.  My car is small though (corvette).  If you do the whole care in one go you'll be fine with just one side likely.  I took a break and when I returned I used a second side as the first had hardened.

 

-prep: the prep spray removes all the oils and such so it is ready to go.  Don't wait a long time between prep and coating.  If you need to pause between your prep and the application of the coating do it before the prep spray.  I used waterless wash to knock of the dust after washing and polishing the car the night before and then prep spray before the coating.  Waterless doesn't leave any wax on the car so the prep I used after it had less to deal with.

 

- pads: The two the kit comes with are plenty.  I assume the wheel kit comes with enough as well.

 

- useful life: Don't know yet, but the boost can be reapplied if the hydrophobic properties start to diminish.  

 

- coats: just one, I saw an adams post somewhere stating that multiple coats don't help.  The coating bonds to paint so that makes sense.  Also, for maximum hydrophobic performance don't do anything else on top of it.  The coating completely rejects water and will keep the paint looking good even after short drives in the rain.  Anything you put on the coating may increase the 'depth' of the finish though.

 

Have fun!

Edited March 2, 2017 by Hupp2it

[FrozenWS6]

The paint coating kit comes with pretty good instructions. It is very simple to use. Just note some lighter colors you may not beable to see the coating flash and turn rainbow color so I kept watching my watch and timed it.

I was able to use one side of the applicator block because I did the whole car in one day. Also you just need one coat. Then once dried top it with the Boost and your good to go. You should not have to do much more then wash it for 2 years.

I attached a link to the discussion post for it, and a post in made of my own experience.

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/32028-ceramic-paint-coating/

 

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/31807-paint-coating-faqs-discussion/

Edited March 4, 2017 by FrozenWS6

[falcaineer]

Thanks a million guys. This has been a challenging hurdle to bring myself to this point emotionally, and I would not have made it this far without you guys as a support group!!! Hahhahahha.

 

If that's you "making it," what were you like before?! LOL

 

Two more...

-what are the indications the coating has lived its useful life; same as a wax or any other product?

-what about repairs? For some reason you get scratches or something you need to polish out or work on; do you just recoat that one area? Overlap it any?

-coats...do you guys ever do multiple coats just because? Does it add any depth or anything to do two?

That was 3...

 

Seriously, though, good luck. I haven't brought myself to this point yet. But if/when I do, I'll probably have just as many, if not more questions.

Edited March 4, 2017 by falcaineer

[shane@detailedreflections]

OK, sorry for all the questions, but I've decided to make the plunge.

-appllicators...how many do you go through? How long, or how many sections/passes willl a side of the applicator pad last? Assume you guys rotate and use all four sides on a pad? Can you tell when it's running out of usefulness? Like does it start to get hard or crystallize on the pad?

-prep...after you've polished and have the surface ready, is there anything you should between polish and coating prep spray? Or will the prep spray remove all the oils and such leaving the surface completely clean and ready?

-boost...the boost is the same for wheel and paint coating? To same some money, I bought the paint kit and then only the single bottle of wheel coating!

-how many pads would you have at the ready for a small car and two sets of wheels?

Thanks a million guys. This has been a challenging hurdle to bring myself to this point emotionally, and I would not have made it this far without you guys as a support group!!! Hahhahahha.

 

 

- You can get away with a single applicator for each type of coating (trim, paint, wheel). The constant application of product seems to keep the product from curing too much as you use them. For reference, I coated a Ford Raptor with a single applicator. If you stop thoughnfor some reason and come back later, you'll need a new applicator. If you happen to notice any hardening, I'd suggest you switch sides. And as a reminder, be sure to toss any microfiber towels used in buffing the applied ceramic. The coating residue will cure in the towel and make it potentially harmful if used again on painted surfaces.

 

- The prep spray is exactly what it sounds like. It's to help remove residues and oils. One step some people do is a quick application of revive hand polish first. The revive acts as a cleaner and polish and gives you another look st your paint. It's not required and does. It take away the need for prep solution. It's an optional step. I would also encourage good lighting when you polish so you can really see the defects that are or are not there.

 

- The ceramic boost is the same. You'll mess than you realize when you're applying it. I usually encourage clients to get a 16 ounce bottle of boost as well to help them maintain their coating. I also keep a bigger bottle of prep solution. Those are products I don't want to run out of or have to be conservative with. That being said, I've never needed or wanted more than what came in a kit. I just like the safety net of knowing I have enough product. It's a strange mindset. But it is what it is.

 

- I would encourage you to have a couple of sets of pads. Some cars load pads quickly. Others not so much. Having a fresh pad is much easier than trying to get a loaded pad to work for you. It's also a good safety net if something happens to a pad since they are wear items. Having pad failure and not having one to replace it can ruin your day. Or in this case your coating plans.

 

Two more...

-what are the indications the coating has lived its useful life; same as a wax or any other product?

-what about repairs? For some reason you get scratches or something you need to polish out or work on; do you just recoat that one area? Overlap it any?

-coats...do you guys ever do multiple coats just because? Does it add any depth or anything to do two?

- The coating has reached the end of its useful life when it's no longer hydrophobic. You'll notice s large difference in how water reacts to it.

 

- As for repairs, you may get away with some light polishing to smooth it back out. But if you're aggressive you'll need to reapply. The coating is harder than the clear coat so it should reduce (but not eliminate) some scratches.

 

- There is no need to apply more than one layer. Some coatings recommend it, but this one does not.

 

All in all, the coating is easy enough to work with. The results lie in the prep of the surface. Good prep will yield a good result. Skimp on some prep and be prepared to live with the results.

[galaxy]

If that's you "making it," what were you like before?! LOL

 

That was 3...

 

Seriously, though, good luck. I haven't brought myself to this point yet. But if/when I do, I'll probably have just as many, if not more questions.

 

Hey man, going to a coating breaks tradition for what guys like us have been doing for years.  It's truly is a total culture shift!  I love rubbing on my cars...this will be tough, LOL.

 

HAHAH...yea, you got me on that one!

 

Anyways...goodness in here with the info...thanks guys.  It's ordered and on the way now, so I'm committed.  

[galaxy]

Another one...

 

Since you have to apply in small sections, there's going to be overlap. How careful are you guys with overlapping where it can't be avoided like on the hood and roof and other large panels? Does that dual layer in those areas cause a visual difference? Or is the key just getting the excess buffed off good?

[stirthepot]

Another one...

 

Since you have to apply in small sections, there's going to be overlap. How careful are you guys with overlapping where it can't be avoided like on the hood and roof and other large panels? Does that dual layer in those areas cause a visual difference? Or is the key just getting the excess buffed off good?

 

dont worry about the overlap. just make sure to cover the whole panel and to buff off the coating when it flashes.  its actually really easy to work with, don't overthink it.  

[galaxy]

Thanks Eric...I am (overthinking it, LOL), but trying to work on that as I'm not the type to get all nervous about detailing and tackling a project.

[shane@detailedreflections]

Thanks Eric...I am (overthinking it, LOL), but trying to work on that as I'm not the type to get all nervous about detailing and tackling a project.

I think some of the nervousness with the coatings comes down to the "semi permanent" nature of them. Once applied it's not a simple fix to remove them and reapply if something goes wrong.

 

If you're confident in your detailing, that's the majority of the prep for a coating. So take confidence in that. The rest is simple cleaning and making sure you have a clean surface to apply to.

 

Like was mentioned above, don't overthink the process. The results are worth it.

[FrozenWS6]

I just did this SS trailblazer this weekend for a customer. I did a couple inches of overlap and buffed off with the supplied microfiber. You won't beable to see anything when you buff it in.

[galaxy]

Just thought of this one after doing my wheels and got to wondering if I buffed too hard and removed all the product, LOL...

 

When we talk about "buffing off the excess", the only thing I could really go by when I did my wheels was buffing until the rainbow effect was gone. Is this what you guys go by?

 

And in the future if you ever had a need to polish to remove a defect or something (or just in the mood to polish and start over a year or so down the road), how the hell would you ever tell if you removed the coating or not?? I guess you just polish until the surface is to your satisfaction, correct? If there's still coating remaining on the surface, it's probably irrelevant and recoating will cover it anyways?

Edited March 23, 2017 by galaxy

[FrozenWS6]

Yes. I have been going by buffing the excess until the rainbow is gone also. No problems with that.