Brand New Pad Priming

[joelilton23]

Hey Guys,

 

I did a quick search on here, but couldn't find a 'defined' answer for this. I have ordered my first polisher (12mm Shinemate DA, not Adam's as we don't have access to them here in Aus yet   - hint hint!) and it comes with a couple of pads. I have some Adam's 5" pads on order, and I was wondering if there is any special procedure for the very first time you use the pad. Do you have to prime them with anything before using them, or are they good to use straight out of the packaging? I know many people use a shot of detail spray or distilled water to help reactivate previous polish in the pad when they are in use, but no real instructions on the first time using the pads from brand new. 

 

I have read about some 'other' brand pads needing to be primed and used lubricated for the first few passes to reduce the chance of pad and foam dust, and failing to do so can lead to a fair amount of dust and foam particles being thrown everywhere until the pad wears in. I would like to avoid this and also avoid causing any damage to my paintwork in the process - as I have never used a polisher before 

 

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Edited April 3, 2017 by joelilton23

[TroyButler]

As far as I'm aware they're good out of the package. I too recently just got my polisher and pads and had no issues. I just do what they do in the video's (a few dots of polish, and a hit of detail spray) and didn't have much dust. A shot of detail spray goes a long way, and you don't need as much polish as you may think.

 

I think as long as your working on a smooth (clay bared) surface, and use a shot of detail spray you should be all good.

[mc2hill]

I think the priming has more to do with which pad you are using vs. old/new pads.  Always prime MF pads, your choice on foam pads.

[Kingsford]

I think the priming has more to do with which pad you are using vs. old/new pads.  Always prime MF pads, your choice on foam pads.

 

I went many years without priming Foam Pads by spreading the polish onto the pad, I regret not doing it sooner. 

 

I found if you don't prime the pad with polish the pad will just absorb the polish the first pass or two. It also seems like you end up using more polish when you don't prime.

 

Doesn't matter if it's a new pad or old pad, I'd prime every time you put a clean pad on.

Edited April 3, 2017 by Kingsford

[falcaineer]

Ok, I may have missed it, but what exactly does "priming" a pad mean? Shot of DS? Something else?

[SumBeach35]

I follow the Kevin Brown philosophy that I learned from Larry Kosilla via his YouTube channel. Completely cover the pad face with polish with finger and work it in a bit. Then add the normal amount to polish. The premise behind this is the utilize the pad to it's max potential by covering all areas of the pad surface with polish. This also helps to reduce micro marring caused by polishing on certain paints.

 

Just my process that I feel works. I did notice an increase in effectiveness compared to before doing this.

Edited April 4, 2017 by SumBeach35

[Kingsford]

Ok, I may have missed it, but what exactly does "priming" a pad mean? Shot of DS? Something else?

 

Priming a pad is applying polish to the pad evenly before you begin polishing. This way the polish you apply when first starting out doesn't just soak into the pad and cause the pad to be dry quicker. 

 

I use a tongue depressor to spread the polish onto the face of the pad, that way it doesn't get all over your hands and what not. I choose a tongue depressor over popsicle sticks because they have to meet a higher level of standard (meaning there isn't a chance of a splinter of wood coming off into the pad).

 

Detail Spray is really only used to liven up polish on a pad if it is drying out, I actually see people doing this less and less. I know I stopped doing it because it didn't seem to do much.

Edited April 4, 2017 by Kingsford

[mc2hill]

For some picture of the priming method Jason uses see 'Tip #6' in this thread - "Civic detail - kinda of a tutorial"

 

 

[AusTroy]

Hey Guys,

 

I did a quick search on here, but couldn't find a 'defined' answer for this. I have ordered my first polisher (12mm Shinemate DA, not Adam's as we don't have access to them here in Aus yet   - hint hint!) and it comes with a couple of pads. I have some Adam's 5" pads on order, and I was wondering if there is any special procedure for the very first time you use the pad. Do you have to prime them with anything before using them, or are they good to use straight out of the packaging? I know many people use a shot of detail spray or distilled water to help reactivate previous polish in the pad when they are in use, but no real instructions on the first time using the pads from brand new. 

 

I have read about some 'other' brand pads needing to be primed and used lubricated for the first few passes to reduce the chance of pad and foam dust, and failing to do so can lead to a fair amount of dust and foam particles being thrown everywhere until the pad wears in. I would like to avoid this and also avoid causing any damage to my paintwork in the process - as I have never used a polisher before 

 

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Joseph is about to put the Swirl Killers on the site in a matter of days. Take the shine mate back haha

[falcaineer]

I follow the Kevin Brown philosophy that I learned from Larry Kosilla via his YouTube channel. Completely cover the pad face with polish with finger and work it in a bit. Then add the normal amount to polish. The premise behind this is the utilize the pad to it's max potential by covering all areas of the pad surface with polish. This also helps to reduce micro marring caused by polishing on certain paints.

Just my process that I feel works. I did notice an increase in effectiveness compared to before doing this.

  

Priming a pad is applying polish to the pad evenly before you begin polishing. This way the polish you apply when first starting out doesn't just soak into the pad and cause the pad to be dry quicker. 

 

I use a tongue depressor to spread the polish onto the face of the pad, that way it doesn't get all over your hands and what not. I choose a tongue depressor over popsicle sticks because they have to meet a higher level of standard (meaning there isn't a chance of a splinter of wood coming off into the pad).

 

Detail Spray is really only used to liven up polish on a pad if it is drying out, I actually see people doing this less and less. I know I stopped doing it because it didn't seem to do much.

  

For some picture of the priming method Jason uses see 'Tip #6' in this thread - "Civic detail - kinda of a tutorial"

Thanks, guys!

[joelilton23]

Joseph is about to put the Swirl Killers on the site in a matter of days. Take the shine mate back haha

 

I only got the 12mm one in the hopes that the swirl killer 15mm would be come available, so having the smaller one will still be helpful with a smaller backing plate too. Are we getting the mini here as well?

[AusTroy]

I only got the 12mm one in the hopes that the swirl killer 15mm would be come available, so having the smaller one will still be helpful with a smaller backing plate too. Are we getting the mini here as well?

In due time mate. I think its a matter of getting our plug style and voltage done on them. I have the Cyclo Polisher but Im considering getting the SK 

[joelilton23]

In due time mate. I think its a matter of getting our plug style and voltage done on them. I have the Cyclo Polisher but Im considering getting the SK

Yeah I figured that would be the main reason why we didn't have them here - will be grabbing the 15mm once they become available here and I get my skills up!

[EB C5 Z06]

 

 

I found if you don't prime the pad with polish the pad will just absorb the polish the first pass or two. 

 

Truth.

Edited April 14, 2017 by EB C5 Z06