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*Adams Painting Coating Woes - SOLVED*


F32_Four35
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I recently applied the adams paint coating to vehicle. I stripped the previous wax and machine corrected the entire car with a 2 step method. Heavy cut and fine polish for jeweling. I then applied the coating tonthe car and let it cure for well over 24 hours. I then boosted the car after 35 hours.

The first week with the coating was unbelievable. The beading was superb and i could wipe all the water off with one swift pass. No sheeting or anything. After about 2 weeks the hydrophoibic properties were gone. Now its been about 1.5 months and i have swirls all over the paint. Its like the coating is completely gone now. I have attempted to reboost the car many time with no luck.

I didnt change anything in my process and have never had swirls to this extent. Im convinced the coating is gone.

So, has anyone else had this issue? I cant believe it would fail so quick. Adams products are usually the best. The only thing that could have ruined is the Ultima waterless wash. If thats the case ill correct the paint and reapply.

I hope the coating is holding up better for others. Please share how you maintain your car and how long it has lasted.

Edited by F32_Four35
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I've never used Eraser or Ultima WW with our ceramic coating, but I don't feel that would be the issue, unless Eraser left some type of residue on the surface (which it shouldn't have). The only other thing I can think of is that maybe you didn't let the ceramic coating sit on the paint long enough before wiping off the residue? Usually 30 seconds to a minute is enough, depending on humidity levels.

 

I'm going on 10 months with my ceramic coated SS now and it's still performing excellent with zero swirl marks in the finish (there are a few light scratches in the coating now here and there on the hood and trunk, but still no swirls, no joke!). All I have used to maintain it is Adam's Car Shampoo, Adam's Wash & Wax about 3 washes so far (it contains some SiO2 in it so it works great with coatings), Adam's Ceramic Boost 3 times, and Adam's Waterless Wash at least once a week.

 

Typically I will dry with the Master Blaster Revolution whenever possible. Do you use Detail Spray or H2O Guard as drying aids, and did you put any other wax or sealant on top of the coating? All of these could affect how the coating behaves.

 

My car is due for a light clay bar or maybe just Finishing Polish by hand behind the wheels on each side from road grime from the winter, but water beading and repelling is still fantastic.

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I would agree with Mariner on this one.

I've coated 5 cars with no issues and these are daily drivers. I've 2 step and one step buffed.

The last one I did, I waterless washed, 1 step buffed, coating prep, coated and boosted with no issues at all.

I've had a couple cars coated for 4 months that live outside.

Edited by FrozenWS6
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I have a non Adams coating so maybe that's why. But, I used the Ceramic Boost on a fender to see how the product acted. That Fender has never been the same. The water beading and sheating effects immediately went down hill and have continued to get worse. Maybe the Boost and other brand of coating didn't play well together?

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Its very possible that the car pro eraser was the issue. I do find it very odd that the car was doing so well for th first week then decided to take a poor turn. I'm getting serious water spots and swirls now. I'm pretty frustrated. I'm going to use the coating prep this time. I did let the car cure for well over 24 hours. I did the coating with a buddy and his didnt cure as long as mine. He is having good luck. The coating prep may have been the issue. 

 

I hope to find some time soon to correct the paint and reapply the coating. 

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Maybe do one panel only and see how that does. Then if you feel like it's going good. Do the rest.

I wish I could do a few panels a night and knock it out over the course of 5 days. However, The ceramic would likely get wet on areas previously done and that could ruin. I'll likely just redo the whole car the next free Saturday I get. 

 

The correcting process has always been the hassle for me. I think I'm going to drop down from a 6" to a 5" cutting disc and see if that helps speed up the process. 

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I did not have your problems, it really blows that you didn't get a positive result. I'm six months into my coating and it still works. There are a couple scuffs in it due to HPDE shenanigans (rubber from other cars). But it still rejects water and shines.

 

I hope you find a good solution in the suggestions here.

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Am I the only one that thinks if you're getting bad swirls in the finish, there's another problem here and it's not related to the coating?  Coating or not, I can go for-ever and not induce swirls in my cars' finishes.  I'm not saying you're not having a problem with the coating, but if you're getting bad swirls, there's a problem with your technique or products/towels/procedure you're using. 

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I had a black Mercedes that I believe had very soft paint.

I stored the car for a customer and over the winter I fully buffed it out. Then when spring came we took it out in the sun and I could still see swirl marks. That looked like they were from my buffing.

So I buffed it again. Another 8 hours of buffing. Then as I was applying the coating the seam of the little blue block scratched the clear coat again. So I had to rebuff that spot and recoat the whole hood (which is where it scratched).

I still never got the paint as good as I know it could have been because it had soft clearcoat.

 

You may be in a similar situation. After I buffed it the first time it looked good in the shop. I left it bare naked paint because he was going to decide if he wanted me to use a sealer or coating. Then when spring came it looked like it needed more buffing. Nothing touched the car while it sat. I was the only one in my shop, so I know no one caused anything.

 

The issue was not the coating but the clearcoat on the car.

Edited by FrozenWS6
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It's not the coating. It's the person washing and drying.

Like i said, I havent changed my washing and drying technique. I never obtained swirls like this before. What I am suggesting is that his is the first time my car's paint has been this exposed, hence the swirls . 

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Coatings are finicky. I've had a coating on two fenders of two different cars. I'm experimenting. On one fender the coating looks like it's just been applied. The other fender looks like the coating has died already. Only difference is one fender I topped with ceramic Boost. The other fender has had nothing applied as a topper. The fender that has the coating only still beads like it did the first wash, the fender with Boost looks like the coating is almost gone. It's been about 2 months since the application. Makes no sense to me. I did the same steps for each fender. Only variable was I used Adam's Correcting polish on one fender and another company's polish on the other. The one I used Adam's polish on is the one that the coating looks to be gone. So who knows. All part of the learning curve

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That won't hurt anything at all.

I would just recommend you have a few blue applicator blocks. Make sure you use a new side of the block each day on each panel.

Because the side you used already will have dried coating on it and may scratch the paint.

Edited by FrozenWS6
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FYI. I did the entire correction process again and used the supplied coating prep and.... the results are MUCH better. After over a month of washes I am still getting beading and the water droplets fly off the car like day 1. I am very happy so far. I also am not using the waterless wash I used last time to just avoid any mishaps. 

Edited by F32_Four35
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The paint coating is awesome. I've applied it to 6 vehicles and everyone loves it.

I did our Pontiac Solstice this winter while in storage. It lives outside and is daily driven in the summer. It's so easy to wash, nothing really sticks to the paint. I bucket wash with wash and wax every time. I have not reboosted it yet and it still beads water like a champ. When we put it back in storage shortly I'll do it's first Reboost.

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