Help;Recommendations for 2003 Millennium Coupe

[tenorplayer23]

Hi: Have a very low mile 2003 Millennium Yellow Z51 Coupe (~6K miles....for a lot of reasons, a long story.....). It's garaged and only driven in good weather here in New York State. I am hoping to be able to use it a lot more soon.

 

Have read a great deal on many, many forums & mfgs. sites about various product lines, processes & techniques for hand and machine detailing work, etc.. However, I would also like to get some first hand information and recommendations for doing good detail work on my C5 (considering it's Millennium Yellow, in it's current condition).

 

Current condition is pretty good, I think.

 

> It's been washed and waxed (so far OTC products; I like Nu Finish Car Wash and Black Magic Liquid Wax). BM is a very bright and "bulletproof" finish, that's for sure.

 

> Swirls are minimal, but I suspect are better hidden by the fact that it's yellow and not a dark metallic. i.e. I suspect there is room for improvement (haven't micro-examined it under a high intensity pointed light source, nor do I have a local comparison for what a better detailing process/products might do for that color).

 

> I use the standard clean 2 bucket washing method, soft fiber washing mitts plus MF towels for drying and terry applicators/MF towels for polish removal. Have never used a DA polisher on any of my vehicles (but would like to A/R) or any of the great product lines discussed on this forum and in other places.

 

I see the trick to an excellent outcome is in the preparation. Therefore, I am generating the list of items to procure - DA polisher & pads, add'l MF towels, other hard goods, as well as, (now, this is the more personal choice & confusing part) the chemical products, to do an excellent job.

 

Hence, I'd like your product & process recommendations for my Millennium Yellow C5 cream puff, please.

 

The only other personal considerations might be:

 

a) Reasonable time expectations & ease of use to achieve a good outcome - perhaps improved preparation on the vette & all my cars, depending on condition, but then more AIO like processes for finishing???

 

I tend to like the idea of a single mfg. line of products; for compatibility, introduction of fewer variables, one source for excellent/personal support which I consider very important, etc..

 

c) Products that are reasonably priced and make some sense in their cost/benefit trade-offs. And, having USA-made products would be a bonus, too.

 

I know there are improvement in products & process steps that you can offer me. So far, I perceive the greatest need to be in which chemical products to use for all the car detailing steps, as well as, particular process suggestions for a Millennium Yellow C5 Coupe!!

 

Many thanks in advance for your recommednations and input. I look forward to your constructive product & process advice for my Corvette.

 

Hope to hear from you shortly. Have a good one! Regards, Bob :seeya

[11chevz71]

First of all i would say throw the nu-finish and black magic in the trash. THen buy yourself the pc and the pads and also the butter wax or the paste wax both will do just fine. Along with that some new towels because if i read correctly you said you used terry towels for polishing(Could add fine scratches to the paint.) TO wash i would get adams car wash and the bucket you have now are fine but you might want a grit gaurd them things are amazing. Last i would get a clay bar, and brilliant glaz and vrt.

 

To do your car wash it with the car wash. then clay the car. then what every works best to get the stracthes out with the pc. Then a coat of wax. then aplly the vrt to the tires and trim and the brilliant spray glaze to the crome and paint and the windows if you wish. Hop this helps and welcome to the club.

[jjwvette]

aboard Bob...I'd start with watching some of the videos and go from there:D

Post some pic's when you get time:thumbsup:

[GerryC]

a) Reasonable time expectations & ease of use to achieve a good outcome - perhaps improved preparation on the vette & all my cars, depending on condition, but then more AIO like processes for finishing???

 

I tend to like the idea of a single mfg. line of products; for compatibility, introduction of fewer variables, one source for excellent/personal support which I consider very important, etc..

 

c) Products that are reasonably priced and make some sense in their cost/benefit trade-offs. And, having USA-made products would be a bonus, too.

You made the right step in coming here

 

You mentioned the swirls are minimal but that there is room for improvement. You should first determine if they are minimal enough for you to live with, or if you want to proceed with getting rid of whatever is there (take some pictures to get some feedback from the other members on the forum). This is an important decision because the correction process typically takes the longest and you mentioned time expectations.

 

Swirls aside, there are a number of detail kits on Adam's website that offer a combined savings on products to fill out your arsenal and give you everything you need. My suggestion to start off would be the Basics Kit which includes the car wash shampoo, liquid wax, quick detailer, and trim/tire dressing, along with a tire sponge, wax applicator, and microfiber towel. If you want to expand on that, next I would go with the Perfect Interior Kit which includes carpet cleaner, glass cleaner (both of which are also great around the house) leather cleaner, and a leather conditioner, another microfiber towel and foam applicator, and the interior brush. The conditioner has SPF65 so it offers outstanding protection from UV rays and will prevent the dashboard, door panels, and seats from fading. Definitely get a Clay Bar to ensure your paint finish is as smooth as glass and free from any bonded contaminants before polishing. Adam's clay is a generous size and very easy to work with.

 

If you are concerned mainly with the exterior, you can forgo the two kits I mentioned above and consider the Essentials Kit

 

If you decide to tackle your swirl marks, you can take two directions. Depending on their severity you can apply the Swirl & Haze Remover by hand with a microfiber applicator pad to lessen the appearance of the swirls. Or, you can invest in a polisher and Adam's Foam Pads to completely remove them.

Edited June 22, 2009 by GerryC

[Bill-V8V]

Lots of good advice so far, I think you will see that these products are extremely easy to use and you will achieve outstanding results. Plus they are made in the USA and backed by the best customer support in the business :rockon::rockon:

 

And when I say customer support you get it not only from Adam's Polishes but right here from the customers themselves, I think that tells you everything you need to know about the company right there

[Team Adam's]

Bob,

 

First off welcome to the forums and thanks for giving us the opportunity to get you pointed in the right direction.

 

From the sounds of it you are already on the right path with your approach to paint care. The first and most important step in maintaining your ride is in minimizing the amount of new "damage" (swirls) you introduce in your wash process. This is often the most overlooked and neglected area of a detail routine, but you seem to have a firm gasp on the basic concept already so kudos to you.

 

That being said Adams is an excellent choice for your request for something that respects your time... there are a number of components to an Adams process that will save you time either by eliminating steps or just general ease of use.

 

My personal recommendation for you would to get yourself a kit that includes the PC... not only will the use of a DA polisher enable you to get much better results it will also allow you to get those results with far less abuse on your shoulders and less time as well.

 

The Complete Dual Action Polisher Kit would be ideal for getting you all you need to complete the process... kind of a "one stop shop" type of deal. I've detailed a fair amount of vettes, including a few millennium yellow C5's and it definitely is a color that will benefit greatly from some added love in the preperation.

 

For your situation (given I haven't seen the car in person, but using your description as a guide) I'd follow the following process:

 

Stripwash to remove old wax treatments (dawn dishsoap can be used or if you prefer a wipe down with a 50/50 alcohol water mixture and a MF cloth)

 

Follow that up with a complete claybar treatment to ensure your paint is completely free of contaminents or residual waxes from your previous products.

 

Next I'd spot treat any heavily swirled areas with Swirl & Haze Remover on the orange swirl killer pad. No sense in hitting the entire car if you only have a few rough spots... only you are gonna be able to define if/where this is justified or necessary.

 

Follow that up with a pass of Fine Machine Polish on the white pad. No need to remove the SHR residue from the spot treatments. I suggest you do the entire care with FMP as it will enhance the gloss of the finish.

 

Buff the car down with a little detail spray and a true blue microfiber to remove your polishing residue and do a final inspection for any areas needing additional buffing.

 

Lastly apply Machine Superwax on the gray pad to seal in your hard work. MSW is technically a sealant so it will setup very hard and give your freshly buffed paint a durable top coat, nice gloss, and shine. Usually cure times vary, but on average I can remove a coat of MSW in about 20 minutes from the time it was applied.

 

Going forward its just about maintenence... a fresh coat of MSW every 2-3 washings as needed... and if you really want to take things to the next level you can top MSW with a couple coats of the Americana Premium Paste wax. A lot of times people treat bright yellows the same way as white... thinking its too bright to justify a wax that adds a lot of depth. In my experience bright reds and yellows look amazing under a coat of a high quality carnuba... it gives them a warm/wet finish IMO... carnuba adds a lot of life to your paint... difficult to describe until you see it first hand, but you'll know it when you see it.

 

[Bill-V8V]

Great write up Dylan !!!!!

 

Just one note, if you do use the MSW wait 12 hours and give it another wipe down before applying APW or BW or it

 

 

And here is the abreviation list to help this all make sense :D:D

 

<!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message --> SHR = Swirl and Haze Remover

FMP= Fine Machine Polish

MSW= Machine Super Wax

APC= All Purpose Cleaner

BSG= Brilliant Spray Glaze

IOS= In & Out Spray

MP= Metal Polish

VRT= VRT

RP= Revive Polish

APW= Americana Paste Wax

[jjwvette]

Great write up Dylan !!!!!

 

Just one note, if you do use the MSW wait 12 hours and give it another wipe down before applying APW or BW or it

 

I didn't know that you had to wait 12 hrs...learn something new everyday

[Sundog Detailing]

I found out the hard way about waiting 12 hrs on MSW with a customers car, dust will stick to it like you wiped glue on it. It is a fantastic product but the 12 hrs is important.

[KodiakBlack]

Great write up Dylan !!!!!

 

Just one note, if you do use the MSW wait 12 hours and give it another wipe down before applying APW or BW or it

 

I didn't know that you had to wait 12 hrs...learn something new everyday

 

so apply a coat of MSW and wait 12 hours for it to "cure". and then finally wipe it off the next day probably?

[Sundog Detailing]

^^ correct. I'm doing that with a customers car now, applied MSW last eve and will do a final wipe down in a little bit then wax.

[GerryC]

so apply a coat of MSW and wait 12 hours for it to "cure". and then finally wipe it off the next day probably?

This part confuses some people I've seen. You let the wax cure on the paint for at least 20 minutes before wiping off the residue. Then 12 hours later come back and rebuff the paint with a clean towel. There are oils in the MSW that eventually make their way to the surface after the wax as set up which you'll want to wipe off, especially before putting another coat of wax on top of it.

[Sundog Detailing]

^^ thanks Gerry, a much better description.

[KodiakBlack]

This part confuses some people I've seen. You let the wax cure on the paint for at least 20 minutes before wiping off the residue. Then 12 hours later come back and rebuff the paint with a clean towel. There are oils in the MSW that eventually make their way to the surface after the wax as set up which you'll want to wipe off, especially before putting another coat of wax on top of it.

 

how the heck am i supposed to wait 12 hours and it not be dirty? dust or stuff from outside always falls on my truck.

[Bill-V8V]

That's ok, just mist it with DS and wipe it down like you normally would anyways, it is worth it for the long lasting protection

 

Then you can top it with either BW, BSG or APW or just leave it as is and enjoy the shine :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[GerryC]

You can do a Detail Spray/MF towel wipe down

[livingwater]

You can do a Detail Spray/MF towel wipe down

 

I just did that today with my vette which sits patiently in my garage waiting to take me out for a cruise

[Rich]

Do you have a PC? If not, I can help you to do it by hand. My preferred method.

[tenorplayer23]

Rich/Dylan/BillC/Gerry & ALL, thanks very much for all the Adams' speed tips relative to my C5. Lots of great stuff and detailed process. What I was looking for!!

 

Rich, haven't used a PC before. You offered the hand done version, feel free to post or PM me. I'd like to get some perspective on that.

 

Based on everything I've seen on this site and all the others I've explored, obtaining the PC for my vette & other cars I have (2008 Precision Red Impala LTZ DD, 2003 BMW 335ci, White, garaged except for top down weather & outside-all-the-time 2005 Subaru Outback, BLACK) seems like a good thing to do. The Impala needs the treatment way more than the Corvette does, as does the Subaru. I take it the processes are the same for all, depending on the extent of stuff I see with each one?

 

Question about "durability" of finish once finally completed. How is it for this system?? For the Corvette, I would suspect it would last a long time - even though the Black Magic I've been using is just OTC, it is really bullet-proof and has a pretty good shine. But, like I said, I'm looking for improvements, too.

 

I don't like the stuff in the air & rain around here and birds use Millennium Yellow as a target, so finish protection and durability are key for the vette, and maybe more importantly, the Impala.

 

Here's a few more questions for you guys:

 

> PC : If I decided to polish one of the cars with a PC (say the Impala to start with - good practice!!), isn't it important to "PC-process" the whole car for uniformity of final finish? If you need to, how do you treat corners, taillights, bumper areas, rockers, etc. with the PC & the large dia. pads?? Other pad sizes or hand prep?

 

> Claying: Sounds like a key (maybe the key) step in this whole process. Again, clay the whole car uniformly, right? Wash afterwards before the rest of the process?

 

> Purchase Quantities Up Front?: How much of these products do I need per car, per detailing job? Washing/interior/wheels & tires are pretty easy. But, in particular, what about clay & lubricant, the polishes and waxes? Also, how about how many/what type of MF towels do I need for a) drying, wax/polish removal, c) windows/interior & d) final buffing. I have at least the Impala and Vette to do to start. This whole MF towel thing is nuts.....almost as much spin as a ZR-1 can produce.

 

> Black, Dark Metallic Cars: I don't have statistics here, so bear with me, but what is it with you guys who have black or dark metallic cars?? The responses from where I have asked these questions, are almost universally from black or other darker metallic car owners.....got one from a Millenium Yellow owner & he had a C5 AND C6 MY to show me.!! Corvette sales statistics likely bias the population to these colors, so maybe it's just numbers.....and I think, the fact that these colors show more & need these products to look best. I outta get some photo's up as a baseline, so you can see what I have to work with!

 

> Times: I didn't realize you had to wait after applying the machine super wax - 12hrs? Did I get that right before ou can really finish (no pun there) the job????

 

> MSW: Can MSW also be applied by hand? And, if not - do you know why, technically? And, if I don't use MSW, do the other choices , either spray or the paste give me the same quality/durability of finish??

 

Ok, super detail guys............anything esle I missed?

 

Thanks again. Look forward to hear back from you. See ya. Bob.

[Baron_Von_Awesome]

Rich/Dylan/BillC/Gerry & ALL, thanks very much for all the Adams' speed tips relative to my C5. Lots of great stuff and detailed process. What I was looking for!!

 

Rich, haven't used a PC before. You offered the hand done version, feel free to post or PM me. I'd like to get some perspective on that.

 

Based on everything I've seen on this site and all the others I've explored, obtaining the PC for my vette & other cars I have (2008 Precision Red Impala LTZ DD, 2003 BMW 335ci, White, garaged except for top down weather & outside-all-the-time 2005 Subaru Outback, BLACK) seems like a good thing to do. The Impala needs the treatment way more than the Corvette does, as does the Subaru. I take it the processes are the same for all, depending on the extent of stuff I see with each one?

Treat them all the same - Adam's has already figured out the process for you

 

Question about "durability" of finish once finally completed. How is it for this system?? For the Corvette, I would suspect it would last a long time - even though the Black Magic I've been using is just OTC, it is really bullet-proof and has a pretty good shine. But, like I said, I'm looking for improvements, too.

 

I have no personal experience with the Adam's LSP's, so somebody will have to chime in on this one.

 

I don't like the stuff in the air & rain around here and birds use Millennium Yellow as a target, so finish protection and durability are key for the vette, and maybe more importantly, the Impala.

 

Here's a few more questions for you guys:

 

> PC : If I decided to polish one of the cars with a PC (say the Impala to start with - good practice!!), isn't it important to "PC-process" the whole car for uniformity of final finish? If you need to, how do you treat corners, taillights, bumper areas, rockers, etc. with the PC & the large dia. pads?? Other pad sizes or hand prep?

 

Headlights/taillights can be polished just like any other part of the car: try it and you'll be really impressed with the results. Bumper areas (or any color-matched plastic/composite finish) can be treated just like the rest of the car since you're using a PC - the Porter Cable doesn't have as much oomph as a circular polisher, so it's significantly less likely to overheat the area and sear through your finish. Sharp corners & edges are easy - because you don't do them. The finish is extremely thin in those areas and even with a PC, as safe as it is, you're likely to shear off bits of your finish. Any gel-coated material (i.e. carbon fiber) can be treated similar to paint: no heavy compounds, though. For smaller areas, you can go by hand or with a smaller pad depending on the area: For example, the gap between my wing and trunk is too small for a polisher to fit, so I would have to go by hand. Door jambs I also do by hand too, in the interest of not filling the car with polishing dust.

 

> Claying: Sounds like a key (maybe the key) step in this whole process. Again, clay the whole car uniformly, right? Wash afterwards before the rest of the process?

 

Yep: And once again, treat the healights, taillights, and also your glass like everything else: clay the whole thing. If your rims are clear coated, those get clayed as well.

> Purchase Quantities Up Front?: How much of these products do I need per car, per detailing job? Washing/interior/wheels & tires are pretty easy. But, in particular, what about clay & lubricant, the polishes and waxes? Also, how about how many/what type of MF towels do I need for a) drying, wax/polish removal, c) windows/interior & d) final buffing. I have at least the Impala and Vette to do to start. This whole MF towel thing is nuts.....almost as much spin as a ZR-1 can produce.

 

The most economical thing to do: buy gallons of everything. It's extremely easy to go through a bottle of Detail Spray and/or APC in just a single detail. Bulk is your best bet because you'll never get worried over a spray bottle that feels a little light. 1 clay bar should last appx. 10 average sized cars - tear the bar into 4ths when getting it and use just 1 piece at a time...using the whole bar at one time is wasting money...especially if it gets dropped onto a dirty driveway: that's a $25 mistake since the bar is rendered useless. Wax will last a very long time since you're not applying that much: a paste wax like Americana should last appx. 30 -40 average sized cars. I've never used a liquid like Buttery Wax, so somebody else is going to have to chime in on how much mileage you can get from a bottle. Polishes should also last you a very long time - about 3oz. per 5 average sized cars. Microfibers - buy in bulk. Waffle weave for drying, glass towels for...well, glass. Plushes for wax buffing and touch-ups, and throw in a few all purpose towels for everything else. You could also go as far as me and have towels color-coded for their job duties.

 

 

> Black, Dark Metallic Cars: I don't have statistics here, so bear with me, but what is it with you guys who have black or dark metallic cars?? The responses from where I have asked these questions, are almost universally from black or other darker metallic car owners.....got one from a Millenium Yellow owner & he had a C5 AND C6 MY to show me.!! Corvette sales statistics likely bias the population to these colors, so maybe it's just numbers.....and I think, the fact that these colors show more & need these products to look best. I outta get some photo's up as a baseline, so you can see what I have to work with!

 

Black cars are tough. Across manufacturers, black cars are universally softer than any other finish because the pigment is derived from the same pigment that makes tires black: an ingredient aptly named...carbon black; which is a very soft, spongy material. At the opposite end of the spectrum (literally) is white, which uses a pigment derived from titanium dioxide, so is thus harder than carbon black. BMW is a prime example: the finish of a white BMW is hard as nails while the black is extremely soft and easy to mar. Black cars take a lot of work and upkeep, which makes them the most rewarding to see fully corrected.

 

> Times: I didn't realize you had to wait after applying the machine super wax - 12hrs? Did I get that right before ou can really finish (no pun there) the job????

12 hours. I've never experimented with MSW before, but if it's like a few other sealants I've used in the past - after applying it and wiping it down after the allotted cure time (20 minutes...?), throw the car in the sun for 15-20 minutes and that 12 hours may turn into 2-3 hours.

 

> MSW: Can MSW also be applied by hand? And, if not - do you know why, technically? And, if I don't use MSW, do the other choices , either spray or the paste give me the same quality/durability of finish??

 

It can't be applied by hand because it says "Machine" on the bottle...duh! lol...just kidding. You can apply it by hand, but it's a bit tacky, so there'd definately be some effort involved with that. Machine is just the faster/easier way to do it. The durability of wax can vary quite a bit - it comes down to application,the initial quality of the product, and how badly you beat on the car. Spray waxes may only last 1 week if you're lucky, whereas high-end paste waxes can last several months. On average, expect a carnuaba paste to give you 4 - 8 weeks of protection on a daily driven, garaged car.

 

Ok, super detail guys............anything esle I missed?

 

A lot. But we'll cross those bridges when we come to them

 

Thanks again. Look forward to hear back from you. See ya. Bob.

 

 

Answers in pink!

Edited June 25, 2009 by Baron_Von_Awesome

[b_pappy]

Bob,

Welcome to the forum! I have family on my wife's side up in that area, but I like it up there anyhow! LOL

Anyhow, lots of spot on advice already. I have a Millennium Yellow C5 also that just glows using the Adam's products, pretty much as Dylan and others outlined. You will be surprised how much that paint can come alive.

Bruce

[tenorplayer23]

Bruce, thanks for the advice. We are having great "CA" weather right now....it will go for quite a while.......then we come to November!! Ugh! The Corvette stays inside.

 

PS - Glad to hear from a Millennium Yellow owner who uses Adams. It's a little different color and I wanted some specifics about how to use Adams w/that color and/or the results obtained w/Adams. What I have heard is that the prep processes are much the same for all colors, depending on condition of the finish (I'll get around to posting some photos, as it is currently). It's petty good right now, best Corvette paint I ever had........might not need to swirl-remove. But, my DD 2008 Impala LTZ in Precision Red is another story..........it can use the whole process.

 

See ya, Bob

Edited June 26, 2009 by tenorplayer23

[b_pappy]

Bob,

Personally I would do the entire process anyhow, just so you know it's done right. Also, if you have not stepped up to paste wax yet the Buttery Wax looks & works fantastic. I also top coat with Brilliant Spray Glaze.

I agree with you, all colors really need respond to the same treatment, results are just more noticeable on certain colors.

Enjoy!

Bruce