Well, I had posted this a few months ago on the Team Shelby forums, but I thought you all would appreciate it so I decided to throw it up on here too! By the way, after 4 months the paint still looks freshly waxed, is slick as hell, and has zero water spots on it even though the car is parked on the driveway outside. Tree sap doesn't bond to the paint, and brake dust doesn't stick on the wheels. Unless Adam says that this stuff is bad for your paint, I HIGHLY recommend it.... Toughguard.
Well, my girlfriend's father owns a 2002 Chevy Tahoe that was in need of some serious TLC. Swirl marks, parking lot scratches and scuffs, pitting, haze, and serious, serious oxidation on his poor American Racing five spoke chrome wheels that actually are pretty nice. I felt bad for the guy, so I told him to order up some Toughguard sealant, and a few things from Adams, and I would take car of the car for him for Father's Day. Well, he did considerably better, and not only ordered the stuff from Adams, but also bought a kick *** water dionizer from Costco that works amazingly well, actually, its more like perfection. Depending on the hardness of your water, it lasts up to 1500 gallons of water, and used with a pressure washer can last a long time (ours operates at 2.5 gallons per minute). I would HIGHLY recommend that anyone that has the cash ($299) pick one of these up. It is very simple, and very effective.
As for the Toughguard, if you don't know what it is, this stuff works great. It is a sealant for your paint and chrome that consists of an acrylic compound that bonds with the paint and fills the pores. The kit includes a wash solution that positively charges your paint, which the negatively charged sealant bonds with, and after curing for 48 hours it lasts about 3 - 5 years. There is no problem I have seen from this stuff such as drifting or wearing off before the 3 year mark, and it helps a LOT with preventing water spotting and bird crap damage. They use this stuff on the Aegis radar systems in the military, and they apply it to the fuselage of Airforce One.
Keep in mind that because the sealant takes 48 hours to cure, there is NO wax on this paint when all is said and done, yet the depth, clarity, and fresh look of the paint is due not only to the polishing and cleaning, but the sealant REALLY made the paint pop.
So, I fired up the spotfree rinse and the pressure washer, a cigar, and went to work. I started by blasting off as much crud, bird poop, bug splatter, and road tar as I could from the paint, windows, roof rack, wheels, tires, and undercarriage/wheel wells. I then soaped up the beast, making sure to scrub off as much of the stuff that was still stuck on as possible. I then rinsed the entire vehicle off, and then did some spot checks for anything I missed. I then left the Tahoe in the sun for about an hour to dry, and in the process test out the supposed spot free rinse system.
Needless to say, I came back, and the thing was bone dry (it was about 90 degrees out, ugh), spot free, and clean! Chalk one up for the spotless rinse system! Next, I blew out all the cracks to release any water trapped in them, and wiped down a few stray droplets of water with a microfiber towel. I then clayed the entire car, including the windows, headlights, mirrors, chrome, and wheels, removing any old, burned in water spots and as much oxidation as possible without using the buffer.
After wiping the car down to make sure there was no residue from the detail spray left, I grabbed the buffer, and went to work with the Adam's Swirl and Haze remover. What this does is evident by the title, but essentially it is a buffing compound no more abrasive than toothpaste, so its gentle enough on the paint that it doesn't dull it like a cutting compound, yet removes swirls and scratches exceptionally well, and very easily. I used the Adam's detail spray to moisten the Orange buffing pad, and started using the Swirl and Haze remover. I hit the entire car with it, and then, using the detail spray, I removed the residue by misting down the paint, then wiping it with a microfiber towel. Easy come, easy go.
I checked the paint, and saw that pretty much all but the worst scratches were gone, and the swirls had been reduced to about 5% of what they had been previously. It was time to switch to the Fine Machine Polish to get whatever the Swirl and Haze remover had missed. I switched to the white pad, again moistening it with the Adam's Detail Spray, and applied it over the entire car. I removed it the same way using a microfiber towel and detail spray, which really brought out the glossy new finish of the paint. I took a step back, and was amazed and how easily the paint was back to looking new, and was swirl free. Aside from the scratches that were through the clear coat, the paint looked brand new.
Next, I went to work on the wheels, buffing them all, letting the polish dry to a haze, and then wiping the wheels down with a microfiber towel. Beautiful, those wheels looked amazing! Poor things looked pretty ratty under all that oxidation, but after removing it, were shining brilliantly. Ok, time to apply the Toughguard! The kit comes with two bottles, one a wash that strips off anything that is on the paint such as wax and polish residue while charging the paint so the sealant can adhere to it, and the actual sealant compound. The instructions called for the water to be hot for the wash, so I filled a pot with a gallon of water from the spotless rinse system, threw it on the stove, and brought it up to about 120 degrees. I poured this into a wash bucket, and poured in the wash. I scrubbed the entire car, and let it dry to a haze per the instructions. I then buffed off the car with a microfiber towel, and let it sit for 20 minutes to make sure the paint was charged.
I then put the black pad on the buffer, and started applying the sealant. You only need a TINY amount of this stuff to do an entire body panel, so there is enough in a bottle to do a couple coats. I applied it over the paint, headlights, taillights, roof rack, and wheels, with a total of 3 coats, buffing in between each coat after the sealant dried to a haze. I am now letting it cure for the 48 hours required, then ill wash the car again, and wax it with Adam's Super Machine Wax (this stuff looks like the paint is dripping wet, but is SO thick you pretty much have to use a buffer). For now, all these pictures are the car without wax, yet it looks like it had been waxed.
Here is a nice before shot of the paint....look at those swirls!!! YIKES!
Another before shot. This is after washing it, and while it is pretty damn clean, the paint is dull and has no gloss or depth. The reflection from the sun is a perfect indicator of how dull the paint is.
My helper and girlfriend's dog. I call her the Gremlin, even though she has a girly name like Chanell (sheesh)
Buffing away with the Swirl and Haze remover....this stuff works amazing! The hood had HORRIBLE haze on it, and it came right out with this stuff. My girlfriend says this picture is very manly, but I am missing the beer hat. I agree with her on the beer hat part.
Ok, now THATS what I am talking about! This is after the Swirl remover and Machine Polish as well. Look at that paint, no swirls, oxidation, or haze! It really is starting to pop, and the color has been brought out a LOT.
Those American Racing wheels look so much better when they are clean...hehe.
The Spotless Rinse System from Costco. For $299, this thing better work, and damn, DOES it!
I applied the Toughguard, and the paint started to really get some depth and gloss to it. This stuff works great, it fills in the pores and makes the paint so slick my towels kept sliding down the paint, and it felt like it had just been waxed with a few coats....yet it hadn't had any wax even touch it yet!
After a couple days, when the Toughguard has cured, I will go over the entire car with Adam's Machine Superwax to finish off the paint and give it some serious dripping wet appeal. I was amazed at how well this car turned out considering it looked pretty damn bad when I started. I apologize that I don't have very many Before photos, but believe me when I say this thing needed a lot of work. All in all it took about 6 hours from start to finish. I plan on vacuuming out the interior, treating the leather and plastic, and doing the tires as well when I wax it. I'll post up some photos when all is said and done.
Two thumbs up to Adam's for making some kick *** product, and to Portercable as well, because I have done this by hand before, and let me tell you, it sucks. The Portercable cut my buffing and polishing time by 2/3's, and was a breeze to use.
The Costco Spotless Rinse system also worked as advertised, and nary a water spot was seen even after leaving the car covered in water for an hour in the burning hot sun to dry. All in all, I am beat, a little sunburned, and in dire need of a cold Guiness!
Question
CRQuarto
Well, I had posted this a few months ago on the Team Shelby forums, but I thought you all would appreciate it so I decided to throw it up on here too! By the way, after 4 months the paint still looks freshly waxed, is slick as hell, and has zero water spots on it even though the car is parked on the driveway outside. Tree sap doesn't bond to the paint, and brake dust doesn't stick on the wheels. Unless Adam says that this stuff is bad for your paint, I HIGHLY recommend it.... Toughguard.
Well, my girlfriend's father owns a 2002 Chevy Tahoe that was in need of some serious TLC. Swirl marks, parking lot scratches and scuffs, pitting, haze, and serious, serious oxidation on his poor American Racing five spoke chrome wheels that actually are pretty nice. I felt bad for the guy, so I told him to order up some Toughguard sealant, and a few things from Adams, and I would take car of the car for him for Father's Day. Well, he did considerably better, and not only ordered the stuff from Adams, but also bought a kick *** water dionizer from Costco that works amazingly well, actually, its more like perfection. Depending on the hardness of your water, it lasts up to 1500 gallons of water, and used with a pressure washer can last a long time (ours operates at 2.5 gallons per minute). I would HIGHLY recommend that anyone that has the cash ($299) pick one of these up. It is very simple, and very effective.
As for the Toughguard, if you don't know what it is, this stuff works great. It is a sealant for your paint and chrome that consists of an acrylic compound that bonds with the paint and fills the pores. The kit includes a wash solution that positively charges your paint, which the negatively charged sealant bonds with, and after curing for 48 hours it lasts about 3 - 5 years. There is no problem I have seen from this stuff such as drifting or wearing off before the 3 year mark, and it helps a LOT with preventing water spotting and bird crap damage. They use this stuff on the Aegis radar systems in the military, and they apply it to the fuselage of Airforce One.
Keep in mind that because the sealant takes 48 hours to cure, there is NO wax on this paint when all is said and done, yet the depth, clarity, and fresh look of the paint is due not only to the polishing and cleaning, but the sealant REALLY made the paint pop.
So, I fired up the spotfree rinse and the pressure washer, a cigar, and went to work. I started by blasting off as much crud, bird poop, bug splatter, and road tar as I could from the paint, windows, roof rack, wheels, tires, and undercarriage/wheel wells. I then soaped up the beast, making sure to scrub off as much of the stuff that was still stuck on as possible. I then rinsed the entire vehicle off, and then did some spot checks for anything I missed. I then left the Tahoe in the sun for about an hour to dry, and in the process test out the supposed spot free rinse system.
Needless to say, I came back, and the thing was bone dry (it was about 90 degrees out, ugh), spot free, and clean! Chalk one up for the spotless rinse system! Next, I blew out all the cracks to release any water trapped in them, and wiped down a few stray droplets of water with a microfiber towel. I then clayed the entire car, including the windows, headlights, mirrors, chrome, and wheels, removing any old, burned in water spots and as much oxidation as possible without using the buffer.
After wiping the car down to make sure there was no residue from the detail spray left, I grabbed the buffer, and went to work with the Adam's Swirl and Haze remover. What this does is evident by the title, but essentially it is a buffing compound no more abrasive than toothpaste, so its gentle enough on the paint that it doesn't dull it like a cutting compound, yet removes swirls and scratches exceptionally well, and very easily. I used the Adam's detail spray to moisten the Orange buffing pad, and started using the Swirl and Haze remover. I hit the entire car with it, and then, using the detail spray, I removed the residue by misting down the paint, then wiping it with a microfiber towel. Easy come, easy go.
I checked the paint, and saw that pretty much all but the worst scratches were gone, and the swirls had been reduced to about 5% of what they had been previously. It was time to switch to the Fine Machine Polish to get whatever the Swirl and Haze remover had missed. I switched to the white pad, again moistening it with the Adam's Detail Spray, and applied it over the entire car. I removed it the same way using a microfiber towel and detail spray, which really brought out the glossy new finish of the paint. I took a step back, and was amazed and how easily the paint was back to looking new, and was swirl free. Aside from the scratches that were through the clear coat, the paint looked brand new.
Next, I went to work on the wheels, buffing them all, letting the polish dry to a haze, and then wiping the wheels down with a microfiber towel. Beautiful, those wheels looked amazing! Poor things looked pretty ratty under all that oxidation, but after removing it, were shining brilliantly. Ok, time to apply the Toughguard! The kit comes with two bottles, one a wash that strips off anything that is on the paint such as wax and polish residue while charging the paint so the sealant can adhere to it, and the actual sealant compound. The instructions called for the water to be hot for the wash, so I filled a pot with a gallon of water from the spotless rinse system, threw it on the stove, and brought it up to about 120 degrees. I poured this into a wash bucket, and poured in the wash. I scrubbed the entire car, and let it dry to a haze per the instructions. I then buffed off the car with a microfiber towel, and let it sit for 20 minutes to make sure the paint was charged.
I then put the black pad on the buffer, and started applying the sealant. You only need a TINY amount of this stuff to do an entire body panel, so there is enough in a bottle to do a couple coats. I applied it over the paint, headlights, taillights, roof rack, and wheels, with a total of 3 coats, buffing in between each coat after the sealant dried to a haze. I am now letting it cure for the 48 hours required, then ill wash the car again, and wax it with Adam's Super Machine Wax (this stuff looks like the paint is dripping wet, but is SO thick you pretty much have to use a buffer). For now, all these pictures are the car without wax, yet it looks like it had been waxed.
Here is a nice before shot of the paint....look at those swirls!!! YIKES!
Another before shot. This is after washing it, and while it is pretty damn clean, the paint is dull and has no gloss or depth. The reflection from the sun is a perfect indicator of how dull the paint is.
My helper and girlfriend's dog. I call her the Gremlin, even though she has a girly name like Chanell (sheesh)
Buffing away with the Swirl and Haze remover....this stuff works amazing! The hood had HORRIBLE haze on it, and it came right out with this stuff. My girlfriend says this picture is very manly, but I am missing the beer hat. I agree with her on the beer hat part.
Ok, now THATS what I am talking about! This is after the Swirl remover and Machine Polish as well. Look at that paint, no swirls, oxidation, or haze! It really is starting to pop, and the color has been brought out a LOT.
Those American Racing wheels look so much better when they are clean...hehe.
The Spotless Rinse System from Costco. For $299, this thing better work, and damn, DOES it!
I applied the Toughguard, and the paint started to really get some depth and gloss to it. This stuff works great, it fills in the pores and makes the paint so slick my towels kept sliding down the paint, and it felt like it had just been waxed with a few coats....yet it hadn't had any wax even touch it yet!
After a couple days, when the Toughguard has cured, I will go over the entire car with Adam's Machine Superwax to finish off the paint and give it some serious dripping wet appeal. I was amazed at how well this car turned out considering it looked pretty damn bad when I started. I apologize that I don't have very many Before photos, but believe me when I say this thing needed a lot of work. All in all it took about 6 hours from start to finish. I plan on vacuuming out the interior, treating the leather and plastic, and doing the tires as well when I wax it. I'll post up some photos when all is said and done.
Two thumbs up to Adam's for making some kick *** product, and to Portercable as well, because I have done this by hand before, and let me tell you, it sucks. The Portercable cut my buffing and polishing time by 2/3's, and was a breeze to use.
The Costco Spotless Rinse system also worked as advertised, and nary a water spot was seen even after leaving the car covered in water for an hour in the burning hot sun to dry. All in all, I am beat, a little sunburned, and in dire need of a cold Guiness!
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