mtnbiker326

Also to note, Waterless Wash spray down/prep the car in advance, with the new Kwazars, is also quick and AWESOME!!!

I have to comment... Today, I had time to complete my very first "Gary Dean" rinse-less wash on my BMW.  I am posting a write up about it in another section but just wanted to say that it is AWESOME.  Not just for the lessening of risk of scratching of the paint, but the speed and efficiency of the whole thing, is just spectacular.  
 
With my technique being honed, I figure I can wash the entire car this way with 5 towels (6 if you include wheels) and all in less than 25 min (including a detail spray wipe down afterwards.
 
SO MUCH FASTER THAN TWO BUCKET METHOD.  Now, it is more expensive as buying 6 border-less blues costs more than a couple double soft towels.  BUT with less contamination and actual wear from the rubbing on a grit guard, the border-less blues will last WAY longer.  You are getting your money's worth out of them.
 
If you haven't already, buy or trade for border-less blues and set yourself up for a GREAT SUCCESSFUL rinse-less car wash.
 
Also, I did have the second bucket full of water and MR and it also was easy to just let the towels (ALL towels) soak for like 30 min - 1 hr and then wring them out and throw them directly into the washer (with another 2 oz of MR) and that was it.
 
All in, I could spend less than 1 hr doing an entire maintenance wash on the car (depending on level of grime) and detail spray wipe down and clean up afterwards.    That is just AWESOME!!!!

I have to comment... Today, I had time to complete my very first "Gary Dean" rinse-less wash on my BMW.  I am posting a write up about it in another section but just wanted to say that it is AWESOME.  Not just for the lessening of risk of scratching of the paint, but the speed and efficiency of the whole thing, is just spectacular.  
 
With my technique being honed, I figure I can wash the entire car this way with 5 towels (6 if you include wheels) and all in less than 25 min (including a detail spray wipe down afterwards.
 
SO MUCH FASTER THAN TWO BUCKET METHOD.  Now, it is more expensive as buying 6 border-less blues costs more than a couple double soft towels.  BUT with less contamination and actual wear from the rubbing on a grit guard, the border-less blues will last WAY longer.  You are getting your money's worth out of them.
 
If you haven't already, buy or trade for border-less blues and set yourself up for a GREAT SUCCESSFUL rinse-less car wash.
 
Also, I did have the second bucket full of water and MR and it also was easy to just let the towels (ALL towels) soak for like 30 min - 1 hr and then wring them out and throw them directly into the washer (with another 2 oz of MR) and that was it.
 
All in, I could spend less than 1 hr doing an entire maintenance wash on the car (depending on level of grime) and detail spray wipe down and clean up afterwards.    That is just AWESOME!!!!

I have to comment... Today, I had time to complete my very first "Gary Dean" rinse-less wash on my BMW.  I am posting a write up about it in another section but just wanted to say that it is AWESOME.  Not just for the lessening of risk of scratching of the paint, but the speed and efficiency of the whole thing, is just spectacular.  
 
With my technique being honed, I figure I can wash the entire car this way with 5 towels (6 if you include wheels) and all in less than 25 min (including a detail spray wipe down afterwards.
 
SO MUCH FASTER THAN TWO BUCKET METHOD.  Now, it is more expensive as buying 6 border-less blues costs more than a couple double soft towels.  BUT with less contamination and actual wear from the rubbing on a grit guard, the border-less blues will last WAY longer.  You are getting your money's worth out of them.
 
If you haven't already, buy or trade for border-less blues and set yourself up for a GREAT SUCCESSFUL rinse-less car wash.
 
Also, I did have the second bucket full of water and MR and it also was easy to just let the towels (ALL towels) soak for like 30 min - 1 hr and then wring them out and throw them directly into the washer (with another 2 oz of MR) and that was it.
 
All in, I could spend less than 1 hr doing an entire maintenance wash on the car (depending on level of grime) and detail spray wipe down and clean up afterwards.    That is just AWESOME!!!!

Just received shipping details for my order! Gotta get the car sealed and protected before love bug season hits!

Riot in the streets!!!

As I stated in my forum post about my collection, I am "paying it forward" with my dad.  This last weekend and through the week he has been hard at work cleaning up 2 main monitors and a head amplifier for a local church.  I insisted that since it is textured vinyl covered and rubber trimmed, he should clean it with some 50/50 (and full strength) APC and a carpet brush (hard vinyl) and protect it with some VRT and blue microfiber applicator.  Well, he took my suggestion and ran with it.
 
We even polished some of the aluminum trim.  Thought at first it was a bare metal but when I used metal polish #1 on it, it didn't turn black, so it is coated.  After cleaning, we covered it with brilliant glaze and buttery wax.  (the aluminum only)
 
(collection updated posting)
 
http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/26224-my-adams-collection-updated
 
 
 

In this case, I would highly recommend the gallon and kwazar sprayer (since there is that special going on (as of now)).  I ended up doing that.  I got tired of the 16 oz bottle and the 36 oz bottle sprayers vs the kwazar (33 oz) and its sprayer.  Holds more product than the new 16 oz (obviously) and puts more down with less pulls ... WIN!!!
 
Plus the kwazar (with a gallon purchase) is going to be as cheap or cheaper than buying a 36 oz bottle used from someone and paying the shipping to get it.  The full bottle will weight close to 2 pounds.  Shipping on that will be as much or more than the product is worth.
 
(as I found out shipping you 3 oz of leather conditioner)

I am just glad to see the community coming together and creating some helpful tips and tricks for the novices as well as the pros
 
Nothing like good, old-fashioned teamwork

I use a towel similar to the Borderless blue, extra plush, long nap, 660 gsm towels.
 
Either towel would work but like Nick said you want that long pile, so if you have both I'd use Borderless Blue, since it's more important in my opinion to have a deeper nap to pull the dirt away once its encapsulated and keep it in the towel.
 
Use the Garry Dean method with about 5-6 borderless blues and you should have a perfect rinseless wash.
 
I also recommend using two damp All purpose towels for drying, damp because as you know Microfiber absorbs better than when its dry.  One damp towel spritzed with Waterless wash to give the initial wipe off of the surface.  Then take the other towel which is basically dry to give the surface the final buff, and you should have a spotless finish when done.

Hey Guys,
I put together a PDF file of what you have so far. You can check it out and I will update it if needed.
It is both in picture format and you can download the PDF file that is attached.
 
Ron
 
 
In what ways can the following Adams applicators be used.pdf

...what would you like it to say?
 
We are kicking around the idea of doing small runs of stickers or decals, and we want your input.
 
Our logo is great and it's plastered everywhere, but we are looking for something different this time around.  Something detailing-related, a short phrase, or saying, or something along those lines. 
 
And please, keep it PG.  Your mother may want to read it. 
 
GO!

That's an expensive pillow case!
 
Double Softs DO NOT make good bath towels. GWT do though....
 
Also, I would love an Adam's Robe made of Double Soft.

I watched my wife take my G8 this morning. She took it in for brakes, synthetic oil & filter change. She sure is beautiful going away with the sun on her back end..so is the wife for that matter.   

Thanks, Bruce and Nick.  Since the product is on hold for right now, I guess I will find another water filter for the time being.  I will gladly buy an Adam;s filter as soon as its available.  Thank you for your reply, and sorry for not getting back sooner!  
 
And just for good measure, here is my Mustang after I gave her a complete wash and detail with Adam's this weekend!

This weekend 4 of my car buddies met at the garage to work on correcting my 2013 Dodge Challengers paint.  I haven't been happy with its finish since I purchased it, always had minor swirls and scratches, which seems pretty typical reading here.  The dealership has one of those touch car washes they ruin their cars through before delivery,,,, booooooooooooooooo.

I had never done paint correction before and didn't have the product or tools, but my buddy Jeff did so we met at his house and the 5 of us knocked my car out in just over 7 hours, we had two polishers going and a lot of premium microfiber towels flying.
 
Very pleased with the Adams product as always, Sunday I got up and decided that the used Envy wheels I had purchased needed some TLC.  When you cleaned them you could feel the brake dust stuck to them, nothing was cleaning them.  
 
So I cleaned the wheels as normal, then got out the clay.  Started using my new "NEW FORMULA" Adam's clay and it was pretty effortless the clay was soft and pliable to the shape of the wheels, but the brown brake dust was quickly contaminating my clay.  So I thought, hey I have some old Meguiar's clay somewhere lets ruin that and save my good clay for the paint, good Idea in my head.
 
So I searched around and found the old clay I had and as soon as I picked it up I could tell a difference, it was like plastic, didn't shape well.  It was hard to use, it didn't conform to the surface of the wheels well at all which made it difficult to get in all the nooks and crannies of the wheel design.  I also noticed the contaminate was requiring more pressure, more detail spay and longer to get the same results as the Adam's "NEW" clay was.

Wished I had before and after shots of the wheels, but after claying, brilliant glaze and Americana wax my wheels shine just as good as the paint.  Very pleased with the results, two thumbs up to the Adam's NEW clay, it what I will use from this point forward, I threw the Mequiar's in the trash when I was done!

Nice work - this will definitely be helpful info to keep on hand.
 
I'll add one - I have been using a blue/red hex grip for Buttery wax (as the yellow ones were out of stock when I bought the Buttery, and I wanted to try it out anyway). Seems to work quite nicely. Of course I have separate ones for my Americana and Buttery.

Good stuff Chris, nice work!
 

I actually added a little bit of RW to my WW for a little added lubricity.  

Good points.
 
I added those as notes at the end of this.  Thanks Jason.  

I have to say, even on REALLY HARD clear coat, like on my BMW... I started learning on a Cyclo.  Did the entire car in one day.  Was it the best job, no, I am still a novice (user not machine errors).  But I will say, that with the microfiber pads and that large ~8.5in diameter of correcting area, the cyclo was no slouch when it came to DEEP correction.  Was it faster than a flex (which I upgraded to), no.  But without forced rotation that will never happen.  BUT, can I get faster correcting times in, against say a PC, absolutely.  Bigger combined pad layout, wider area coverage and it can reach into smaller areas WITHOUT a separate BP.  These are all MASSIVE wins for the Cyclo.  I have to have a separate BP for the flex that will take 4" pads (can't use Adam's pads due to the backing plastic being smaller than 4")    ...Still working on modifying the BP to accept Adam's pads.
 
Plus, I have to say, I FULLY enjoy the balance of the Cyclo (and less vibration) over the Flex ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.  Also, having FULL support from not just the company that sold it (which is AWESOME) but the company that makes it (there in Denver) is AMAZING and should not be overlooked.
 
In the end, with my specific clear coat, I had no choice but to go up to the Flex.  But given a little more time, the cyclo would have finished the job the same as the flex.
 
I am in agreement with Chris (Chewy), that I went with the flex to have more time to do other things.  But my hands and arms would probably thank me more with the cyclo (even with more time being spent with it).

I was in the same boat last weekend with my Jeep.  Had EVERYTHING laid out in the driveway to get the whole thing knocked out (wash, clay, correct with flex, sealant (only as clearcoat failure doesn't really deserve Americana)), and the same thing happened to me.  After claying the jeep, I found the surface still too rough to really correct yet.  There was about 15-20 mph gusts with dirt and dust (micro particles) all the time that day (I am in a desert).  I had to resort to just settling for a complete wash, clay and wash again to get all the detail spray off (new kwazar sprayers really put the product down).

My recommendation for this situation would be to wash the entire vehicle, and then do the entire clay/polish/seal steps to one panel at a time. This is how I corrected my G8 last year. I clayed a whole door, two-step polished the door, and then sealed the door before moving on to the next door, etc. Do NOT strip wash the entire car to start. You don't want to expose the entire surface of the car all at once - only as you begin each panel. This way the only unprotected paint at any given time will be the paint you are currently working on. Another bonus to this method is you can take breaks between completing panels.
 
It is obviously going to take more time to do your car this way (I did 3 panels a day over the course of 4 days) especially with the frequent product/pad switching, but it is the most feasible I have come up with for correcting a car outdoors. 

I have to say, even on REALLY HARD clear coat, like on my BMW... I started learning on a Cyclo.  Did the entire car in one day.  Was it the best job, no, I am still a novice (user not machine errors).  But I will say, that with the microfiber pads and that large ~8.5in diameter of correcting area, the cyclo was no slouch when it came to DEEP correction.  Was it faster than a flex (which I upgraded to), no.  But without forced rotation that will never happen.  BUT, can I get faster correcting times in, against say a PC, absolutely.  Bigger combined pad layout, wider area coverage and it can reach into smaller areas WITHOUT a separate BP.  These are all MASSIVE wins for the Cyclo.  I have to have a separate BP for the flex that will take 4" pads (can't use Adam's pads due to the backing plastic being smaller than 4")    ...Still working on modifying the BP to accept Adam's pads.
 
Plus, I have to say, I FULLY enjoy the balance of the Cyclo (and less vibration) over the Flex ANY DAY OF THE WEEK.  Also, having FULL support from not just the company that sold it (which is AWESOME) but the company that makes it (there in Denver) is AMAZING and should not be overlooked.
 
In the end, with my specific clear coat, I had no choice but to go up to the Flex.  But given a little more time, the cyclo would have finished the job the same as the flex.
 
I am in agreement with Chris (Chewy), that I went with the flex to have more time to do other things.  But my hands and arms would probably thank me more with the cyclo (even with more time being spent with it).