The Guz

It will work.  Consider CS3.  

How did you apply it?  The coating is still there.  The hydrophobic layer has been diminished. 

Not within the Adams line up.  

There are plenty of other brands that offer sheeting type coatings.  They also have their pros and cons.  

1 hour ago, Mantis said:

Less prone then what? Ceramics? 

That is right

On 7/15/2022 at 7:13 PM, Mantis said:

 What's funny about the Graphene craze is that it's marketed to help prevent water spots. I have not seen this to be true as as have you. 

 

They were marketed to be less prone.  

5 hours ago, ArcticC5 said:

Or should graphene ceramic coatings be left as the top coat, occasionally wiped down with graphene detail spray or application of graphene booster?   

Stick with something like the graphene detail spray or CS3.  Both can be used as a drying aid and both work well.  I would recommend to stay away from a wax as the wax masks the beauty of the actual coating.  In some instances I have experienced that a ceramic wax interferes in some way with the hydrophobic behavior of the actual coating and they never come back.  Thus I would say stick with one of the spray products to get the best performance. 

46 minutes ago, ArcticC5 said:

Thanks for your advice; it makes sense.

 

What do you think of Adam's "Slick and Slide" product applied to a graphene ceramic coated surface?

Slick & Slide works well with coatings.  I have used it before without any issues.  

Which coating is it?  

As often as you like to.  Won't need to be applied monthly. 

CS3 in my experience is the better product.  GCS3 could use another tweak as it is prone to streaking.  

You can use regular CS3 just fine.  Actually it is better as the GCS3 is prone to streaking.  

Yes you can use it over the existing layer.  Of course a light polish will net you better results as the coating will bond to bare paint.  Completely up to you if you want to just try a strip wash to get the surface as clean as possible.  

If you decide on the actual graphene coating, you will be fine with either version.  The original one is slightly easier to use as some complain that the advanced one is bit grabby upon removal.  I would go with the graphene version over the ceramic.  Keep in mind that the graphene coating is still ceramic at its core.

I have always disliked that Adams is the only company to recommend claying.  I don't care what anyone says, but claying has the potential to marr and will marr the surface.  I have experienced this with many different coatings.  Even with the so called non-abrasive clay options.  

I would recommend you go the chemical decontamination route first.  I would recommend other products in an alkaline wash, acidic wash and an iron remover.  Adams does not carry everything in their line up for these.  

From that photo it looks like that area has been sanded and never finished out.  Was that area ever repainted?  

It is possible that it is burn through.  

Do a test spot on a small area and see how the temp and humidity affect the flash time.  

I use a product from 303 for seals on the door jambs, truck.  It would also work for the targa top on the C5's.  

Do a test spot with the panel wipe in an inconspicuous area to be sure it does not affect the wrap.  

The advanced version does not rainbow as much as the original.  The advanced one will do the sweating effect as well as its is flashing. 

Watch this live video showcasing the ceramic spray coating on matte.  It will enrichen the appearance making it appear darker.  

https://fb.watch/dpk2ItZaWS/

On 5/30/2022 at 7:16 PM, BoltonGoalie said:

Hello,

I'm looking to graphene coat two of my cars.  Both 2021 Tesla Model 3 and Mazda MX30.  Both are in like new condition.

 

I have a pressure washer, a foam cannon, will purchase an air dryer and will purchase a polisher...and anything else I need.

 

You will need lots of pads.

 

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Is there any part of either of these cars that I should not coat?  Tires, rims, any particular trim pieces?  Also please identify any steps that have special instructions...maybe there is something I shouldn't decon like trim.

 

Yes avoid getting any decon chemicals on the trim other than soap or APC.  

 

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The Tesla has 4500 miles and the Mazda 7000.  I want to prep it right.  What products do I need?  What process?

Hard to say without physically looking at the condition of the paint.  You will need to go through the decon process first and then get into the polishing step.  Best advice is to do a test spot and go from there to determine the finish you are happy with.  In some cases you may be happy with a just polishing.  

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Should I iron decon cars this new?

Yes

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Should I strip wash and foam wash?  If no, which one?

Either one is fine.  Strip wash will give the deeper clean.  

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Should I clay bar?

Depends on how rough the surface feels.  

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Should I polish?

If you want a good finish and have the coating perform at its maximum then yes.  If you clay you will be left with marring which is only removed by polishing.

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How should I prep my windows?

Clean, polish, panel wipe and coat or use the glass sealant.  

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How should I prep my trim?

Clean, panel wipe and if you decide to use the coating the be sure to wipe off the trim or you will be posting back how the coating turned the trim white. 

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How should I prep my tires (if they should be done)?

Clean and dress. Plenty of video on how to do it on the Adams youtube channel. 

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Should I was again after polishing?

Panel wipe and coat.

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With regard to caring for my coating.  Should I stick with the graphine infused products, normal products, or a combination of both?

Preferably staying in the same family for product synergy.  But graphene and ceramic are interchangeable.  

The above information is general.  The first question I should have asked is if you are using the spray coating or the actual coating.  

Facebook weekly video from last week.

https://fb.watch/dm2OJ_0vqH/

Some polish on a towel or applicator will remove it. 

This weeks facebook live video covered coating exhaust tips with the actual coating.  The spray coating does not have the high temperature resistance as the actual coating but it can be reapplied as often as desired.  

The potential to marr is there regardless of the grade level of clay.  I have seen it and experienced it regardless of the coating used.