dconsmack

Just used this new formula for the first time on my 2007 4Runner - 136,000 miles. It was the first time I’ve ever detailed it; I always had it washed by the local hand wash place. Strip Wash, clay mitt, One Step Polish, rewash with regular Car Shampoo, then H2O Guard And Gloss to dry. It was very, very easy to apply and remove with no streaking. This to me is much much easier than applying a traditional wax or sealant. I tried the first generation Adam’s Ceramic Paint/Trim/Wheel Coatings on my Challenger and while the initial results were excellent, it wasn’t worth the amount of work it took to prep, and the water beading stopped on the doors before the one year mark. I’d much rather apply the H2O Guard And Gloss as a drying agent every several washes. It also makes the black trim look amazing and now I don’t have to apply VRT to it anymore.

I have the first version of the Ceramic trim coating and it says it needs 24-48 hours to cure. The current version in the white bottle says it needs 1-2 hours. Has this been revised or is it because of a new formula? The reason why I ask is that I just finished correcting the paint and there’s polishing dust I’d like to rinse off. The trim coating has been on over 12 hours, stored inside, 7% humidity, 75 degrees. Would it still be too soon to wash?? Thanks. 

This is where I am wondering if the uneven look is resulting from dirty stripes with build up on them? Seeing the pads turned black means the stripes were contaminated in this specific example. And the glaze Cyclo combo was knocking that out well. So that's where I wonder if some cleaning prep needs to be done on the stripes prior to applying any of the three methods mentioned in this post. I'm with you Rich, not having much experience with Stripes myself, I think it would be best to await more feedback. Curious to see what the consensus is here.

No. The car was brand new. I even had to have the stripes on one of the panels replaced when it needed a repaint from a small scrape. I had to apply Brilliant Glaze with the Cyclo to make the new stripe piece match the original remaining pieces. The Brilliant Glaze actually removes or levels down some of the "texture" that gives the vinyl its matte finish; that's what's on the pads. When I first applied Brilliant Glaze by hand it made it blotchy. The Cyclo made it even, but it physically altered the finish. They are no longer truly matte with a subtle rough texture, they're smooth and have a satin sheen. I would recommend never using anything other than soap and water on matte vinyl stripes, and never let a polisher near it, or even rub too hard by hand. But, I can see someone liking the look it created. It looks like it's got VRT on it all the time. I've since sealed it with both Liqud Paint Sealant and Americana. Those products didn't make it any glossier after I used the Brilliant Glaze/Cyclo application.

Normally when I wash I just take some waterless wash to my stripes at the end to even them out a bit. After seeing several posts on the forums as well as reading the thread dedicated to the subject, I decided to try some suggestions. So far I have tried:

 

1. Brilliant Glaze

2. VRT

3. Brilliant Glaze followed by VRT

 

These products have left my stripes an uneven, blotchy mess. I'm beyond frustrated and aggravated. I have applied and buffed, and buffed, and buffed as is mentioned in the video and it just doesn't work. It looks awful. 

 

I have a ceramic coating curing on the paint, wheels and trim. Pulling it out and giving it another wash is not an option right now. What is recommended?

 

I applied Brilliant Glaze by hand on my matte black vinyl stripes on my black Dodge Challenger R/T Classic and got the same blotchy and uneven results. The Brilliant Glaze will permanently make matte vinyl stripes darker and more of a "satin" finish. The only way I was able to even it out was to use Brilliant Glaze on the red foam pads on my Cyclo polisher. It actually made the pads black (I got the pads clean again) so the glaze is permanently changing the finish on the stripes. Now the sheen is evened out and essentially looks like there's VRT on it all the time. It looks great for what it is but now it's very difficult to see the black stripes over the black paint unless the light hits it just right. I wouldn't have done it if I knew it would permanently darken them and add a sheen, but as it is, it does look very good.  

I'm assuming that's for cleaning. I'm specifically looking for protection… maybe Liquid Paint Sealant or Glass Sealant? Will those work on clear vinyl?

My friend has replaced his old BMW convertible top that had a hazed vinyl window with a new one. What is the best product to protect the clear vinyl window from the elements and hazing over? The car is a daily driver in Las Vegas, NV.

I live in Las Vegas and as much as I love Adam's products, I won't use Rinseless or Waterless Wash anymore. Nothing wrong with those products (I've used them both plenty of times) but the dust in the desert is SAND. So no matter what you do and how careful you are you'll get fine scratching without hosing off your paint first. I recommend the Foam Gun and 2 bucket wash. Rinse the car off with a hose first, then the Foam Gun, then the wash. If possible, pull the car into a garage to dry it because the smallest amount of wind will blow dust (sand) onto the paint and remaining water if you dry it outside. Finally, it's best to wash the day after it rains because the rain will dampen the dust for a couple of days.

I took my mats to the coin op after using the Cyclo and C&UC, and rinsed them with the power washer. Worked great. Took some paper towels to soak up a bit of the excess and there was zero discoloration of the paper towels. So... perfectly clean with no residue and only took a few minutes. They look brand new, and the charcoal gray DODGE embroidered logo is now back to the original light gray. I'll let them air-dry then seal them with carpet protectant. 

Nope, haven't tried that. I think I'll use the upholstery cleaner/Cyclo brushes then take them to the local self car wash and rinse them off there. They have clips to hold up the mats. I'll make sure not to get too close with the power sprayer. My floor mats are black so blotting them with towels will probably take forever and I'll never know if the dirt is completely out.

I've used the Carpet & Upholstery Cleaner with my Cyclo carpet brushes on my floor mats with pretty good results. It was particularly good at getting rid of odor. However, blotting the carpet with utility towels takes forever and never seems to completely soak up all of the product/dirt, even after multiple cleanings. I was wondering if after I use the C&UC/Cyclo if it's ok to hose off the product/dirt with a power washer at my local car wash then leave to air-dry. Any problems with this? Any suggestions to get absolutely all of the residue out?

I use Liquid Paint Sealant but then put on a layer of Americana once a month or so. The Americana has filling qualities that hide imperfections very well in between paint corrections and the depth of shine really is a bit different than the sealant alone. My car is back and this combination works great.

I gave it a try today for the first time.

 

The problem seemed to be two-fold:

 

1. The sprayer didn't provide a 'fine mist'. So I was getting large drops.

2. The car drys too quickly...

 

So I end up spraying more than a 'fine mist' (as the instructions state) and then if it gets on a dry surface, it makes it a REAL PITA to get off the smudges of product remnants.

 

I DO like the process and the concept...and the gloss is quite nice.

 

But, it ended up taking more time than it was worth.

 

Did I do something incorrectly?

I had this same problem. The second time I tried the dry method and made sure my towels had lots of water on them (just short of dripping). That fixed the problem and it was easy on, easy off. I bought another bottle after that. No one seems to mention this but the way it darkens the plastic trim is great and the beading on glass works as good if not better than the glass sealant.

How long to soak? An hour? Overnight?

I've been using my Fender Brush on my tires and wheel wells for a year now. I only use it with All Purpose Cleaner. Tires have Super VRT; wheel wells have Invisible Undercarriage Spray so those are the products I'm cleaning off. The bristles on the brush are filthy and can't get it clean using APC. I don't care if they're stained, but I wanna get the residue off. What works?

Glad it worked out! 

 

Do you have any tint/film on the inside of the windows? 

 

Nope. No tint.

I tried this for the first time the other day. I'm impressed with the results. It seems no matter how hard I try to get the glass clean with Glass Cleaner, there's always some residue visible in certain lighting conditions. And it takes two cleanings with two towels, with the second cleaning using just a few drops of Glass Cleaner to get the residue left behind from the first cleaning. Using Brilliant Glaze on the inside left zero residue in any lighting conditions. It can't get any cleaner. And it worked in one very easy application and removal. I used a Blue Microfiber Application Pad for putting the glaze on, and a Blue Microfiber towel for removal. Works great!!

I might as well show my Challenger too. 2014 R/T Classic. 2 weeks old. Plan to do a correction with the Cyclo in the fall; there were a few minor scratches from the factory. Is there a recommendation on weather to use the foam or microfiber pads for a new clear coat?

Here's some new photos taken with a better lens...

You are really going to love that combo which is known as the "face melter". Be sure to post up pics afterwards. Are you familiar with the bag test for clay?

Nope. What's the bag test?

1. LPS

2.QS

3.Americana

4.Buttery

If you are using Americana you won't need Buttery.

Thanks! It was already starting to get hot here in Vegas and I wanted to get wax on the car ASAP. After I did the Buttery layer, the Americana and Liquid Paint Sealant came in the mail. In a month or so, I plan to strip the current wax with Dawn, then, clay, spot Correcting and Finishing Polish with the Cyclo (there were a couple of minor scratches from the factory), Liquid Paint Sealant, Revive, Glaze, then Americana. Sealant on the clear coated wheels too. Any other advice is welcomed. Thanks!

The more Challengers I see, the more I want one. Yours looks amazing!

Thanks! This is my first Dodge, and I am more than happy. It drives great, I love the sound, and the fit and finish is flawless.

Looks amazing, and welcome!

 

Somone correct me if I'm wrong; buttery then americana? Seems a bit much

I bought the Essentials Kit, which included the Buttery. I ordered the Americana a couple of days later and applied it the day after I did my first detail. I'll likely skip the Buttery next time I wax.

Here's my new 2014 Dodge Challenger. I custom ordered it and made sure they didn't wash it when it came off the truck. Wash, Clay, Revive, Glaze, Buttery, Americana, VRT. I really like all the Adam's products I used; very happy!