rrmccabe

Being from Iowa where they use salt and other calcium products there is no substitute for pressure washing. Unfortunately you pretty much need the vehicle on jack stands (at minimum) to do this and you are going to be totally soaked

I like the idea of the mitt but it's obvious from Adams video that the potential for damage is much higher with the mitt. It would probably be a great choice before a full paint correction. I placed my order a couple days ago and Wolf I totally forgot those bargain Colad's. I might have to do another order just for that!

Thanks for the response. I don't have any issues with it but just not as slick as I would have expected. That said it washes easy so must be working Last night I parked it under a tree that has pollen or something coming off it and the paint was sticky this morning. Mixed up some waterless and it was spotless in about 5 minutes. You are quite the bowtie collector. What a signature

Its a mobile app that makes forum browsing easier. Instead of using a browser you use the phone app to browse your favorite forums. One place access to all your hangouts It requires you to install the software on the server and of course sign up for an account.

I had to use Google to see what that says. #Driven Hearts. The stanchion is in a bad spot and leaves it to some bad interpretations . ?

On my recent ceramic coat application I have noticed the surface not to be "crazy slick" as Adam mentions in the video. Nothing like the Adams waxes I have applied. I did a coat of boost as instructed and about 4 days later spritzed the hood with ceramic boost again to see if that would improve it and it did not. Its not bad but not what I would have expected. I don't really want to top coat it with anything that would harm the water shedding properties. So for those of you that have used the Adams CC, do you find it as slick as a good wax job? Rich

I used to use liquid glass years ago. Not sure if I would compare it to ceramic coating even thought its a non wax carbon based product. I think a regular strip wash should remove it. It was decent wax but did wear off like any other wax for me. That said JR's recommendation of ceramic coating is a good one and was my choice on my Silvy.

I am surprised this thread has not been updated or deleted. Good info but APC is not longer the chemical of choice.

I have used both and really could not tell the difference except the IR does not stink. In all fairness, the vehicle I used the IR on was pretty clean and did not appear to have much for contamination although I did see some iron being dissolved between the box and back of cab. If you are not using it for wheels I personally would order IR for paint decontamination.

Very nice. I would use Adams metal polish. You can try it by hand but one of those power balls looks like it would be helpful.

What brand of wheels? I am guessing they are not OEM as I remember those to be painted centers with some sort of bright metal ring. And also wondering if they are vintage if they are actually aluminum and not magnesium. Starting to drive in the 70s I have been through a ton of aftermarket wheels and have had good success with about every polish out there. Adams metal polishes works well and I have used it to polish a few aluminum pieces with good results. If the wheel allows it I would try one of those mothers powerballs and powercones to save some elbo grease. I have not used them but would think having a faster tool than a cordless drill would help. I don't know about Adams wheel cleaner but I would avoid most aluminum wheel cleaners (acid) if you plan to polish them later. Dont be afraid to wet sand the dish if needed.

How do these compare to the old Colad sprayers that Adams used to sell? I have a couple of those and they seem to work fine with a fine mist that goes a long way. I will probably add another one soon and might just source out another Colad.

Yes Revive from Adams. Its great stuff.

Tried the HGG today. Seemed to work OK and hydrate the cover. See how it does when it dries down in the sun. Definitely looks better than without.

Well it got its first wash after ceramic coat today. Used the master blaster to dry it and then touched up with a towel. Barely got the towel wet. Stood on a step stool and totally dried roof in about 60 seconds without moving the stool. That was pretty impressive. If this level of protection last for a year, I will be very happy.

Yea I have tried the 1:1 method and that is often my go to for VRT anyway. Maybe VRT 1:1 and then buffing it all back off with a towel will help.

I usually try revive first as its easy and is OK on the paint.

I am trying to find a solution for bed cover protectant on my truck. I know VRT does a good job at protecting but cant deal with the streaking after rain. I really don't use HGG on my vehicles but have a few bottles of it. Is there any benefit to using it on vinyl covers?

Gave the hotrod a little love. Tire and rubber cleaner on all the plastic and rubber trim, strip wash, clay bar, VRT all the trim and finish with patriot.

You cant get rid of that smell. LOL I doubt it would do damage to anything however I would not risk the chance of having even a hint of that nasty smell inside my vehicle.

Yes

Except ceramic

I do it because its cheap. I just did ceramic and cleaned it with my homebrew IPA (in liberal amounts) first and then did the final using the coating prep. Just gives me a little extra insurance that the panel is oil free. When applying ceramic it seems making sure the panel is clean is more important that using something with lubricating properties. So that is my reasoning

Can not use it on glass.

Thanks! Still concerned about wiping it off too fast. Dan did mention he was going to get them to update the instructions. We have rain forecasted tonight and tomorrow. Have dinner plans with the wife so maybe I will get to test out the paint protection and glass sealant in a storm!