avimore

I've seen this, some washing machines cause this kind of damage. I cut them off with a razor and keep them short, towels don't last forever and snags ruin the look lol, I just snagged a new one I almost cried but then I realized it's a towel and moved on lol.

Take your time.. it took me 30 hours after i bought my 2002 ws6. The outcome is stunning!
 

Looks great, Dan! Nice work. But you may want to try a less aggressive method next time...or not!...you seem to have buffed it too long and turned it into a Vette.

Thanks, guys.  Great information here.

Thanks, guys.  Great information here.

I understand your frustration, and I appreciate you trying to trouble-shoot the issue with us.
 
At this point, I think there is either an issue with the application procedure, or the product is defective, or maybe it was stored exposed to higher temperatures.
 
This current version has been out for awhile, and people have found that the residue is easier to remove than the previous version.
 
The PS should be applied with a clean, dry applicator or pad.  The applicator or pad should not be primed with DS.  Doing so just adds water, wax and other polymers into the applied layer, which is not what should be done with PS since it is a solvent-based product.
 
This is seen when washing out the applicators or pads, the leftover sealant does not dilute with water, it takes a strong cleaner like MRB to clean the sealant out.
 
I would try a new application, with a clean, dry applicator and no priming, applying it very thin at 3-4 small drops for an entire hood, and let it cure out for 20 minutes or so.  As you progress with the application, you would apply less product for each additional panel, since the sealant gets built-up in the applicator.
 
 
Sorry for the confusion.  The PS starts to cure as soon as it is applied, as the solvents start to evaporate away.  This curing then continues, whether the residue is removed after it hazes, or left for a while and removed later.
 
In theory, the curing of the very thin layer of sealant that actually links and bonds with the paint (the rest gets removed as residue) would be slower with the residue left in place for an hour of more, since the excess product on the surface would slow down the curing, since it still contains solvent, and the extra layer of haze would slow down the process of polymer linking and bonding.
 
In reality, there are so many variables (application thickness, temp, humidity, air flow) that it is not really possible to say exactly when it has cured enough to be layered, so the general rule of a hour is recommended, whether you remove the haze after a few minutes, or let it sit for longer.  To be safe, I would recommend that the "hour of cure time" begins when the residue is removed, unless you happen to leave the residue on overnight.
 
Many people have reported that leaving the residue on longer actually makes removal easier.  But with this new version that should remove very easily, there may not be much difference between 20-30 minutes and letting it sit overnight.

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 
 
Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.
 
sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

More like what did i do this past weekend...lol.
Knowing it was going to rain today, I still washed and applied h20 G&G to the car on saturday just to get some pics of the new wheels and tires I got friday. Loving my new setup. Here a few pics.

I have immediately put the Swirl Killer I received to good use. My parents have always said that I do the best detail work (they may be a little partial I know). I decided to help me Father yesterday and polish the side of his truck he wasn't happy with. I brought my Flex and my Swirl Killer with me to his place. I showed him the difference between the two machines and how one is for HEAVY cutting and the other machine is for super smooth and easy polishing (SK). He decided to break out some 2000 grit sandpaper and use it on some really bad paint touch-ups that the previous owner slapped on the front of the hood. Keep in mind that he has NEVER color sanded. I handed him the SK and let him cut/polish.
 
I am very proud of my Father for attempting to fix on his own. He actually did a great job. His technique is improving greatly. He has done a little body work in the past, so he understands keeping the pad flat to the paint. His biggest problem is SLOWING DOWN. He wants to buff too quickly and I am trying to teach him to slow down and let the machine do the work.
 
My Mother came down to our second garage where the buffing/teaching was taking place. I thought it was a great opportunity to show her the difference between the 2 machines. She thought the SK was much smoother and definitely easier to handle than my POWERHOUSE (Flex) machine. Her form is also getting better. Her biggest issue is keeping the pad flat. She's working on improving.
 
They both need to learn to KEEP THAT CORD OVER THEIR SHOULDER! It's a learning curve to cut/polish. I don't have any pictures of the before/after, but I did capture my Father and my Mother polishing. Enjoy these (swirl)"killer" action shots.
 
I stumbled upon Adam's polishes last year. I used to use CG products before coming over to the Adam's Family. I now have my Father going to work and instead of talking about CG products,(because that's all I knew)is now telling everyone he works with about Adam's Polishes. He has even referred a few people to the website to shop. One guy in particular asked him about a good wheel cleaner to use on his wheels. My father told him "Adam's Polishes"!
 
THANK YOU ADAM'S FAMILY
 
P.S. I don't know why the pictures keep turning sideways.

I've never really done a rinseless wash, apart from some spot-cleaning.  Just curious.... are you saying that it takes around 1 gallon of RW (diluted) to wash your whole car?  It seems like a lot, but maybe it's not as I've never attempted it.  What dilution ratio do you use?
 
Thanks.

It was overcast and rainy - the car is white - but I had to take a pic. First rain after PS.
 

 
P.S. Top left is the reflection of a light post, not a scratch!

I too approach spot treatment this way and end with the same wipe results, so eventually I just end up doing that whole panel, and then I will usually notice a difference between that panel and the other ones and decide I might as well give the whole car a wipe down lol. I am not crazy I promise. 
 
If you are concerned with scratching or swirling the paint up by spraying directly on there and wiping you shouldn't be, especially if the car isn't dirty, just wipe with light pressure and you will be fine. Better to wipe 5 times with light pressure and remove the contaminant than wipe once with excessive pressure and scratch the paint as you remove the contaminant. 

I clean my foam pads with a towel and the polisher running. Tough to describe in text, but there are videos posted on the internet that shows the technique.  

Sounds like to me you have a great plan and yes for real light scratches FP is all you will need.
Do a 2x2 test spot first so you will know exactly what it will take to get your paint perfect.

I personally dont wash the car between polish and sealant. I usually just run a clean microfiber and maybe some detail spray to get rid of any polish remains left, and any dust that might have settled while working on other parts of the car. 
 
Yes you can use the conditioning brush with foam pads, but just be careful with the waffle weaved foam pads. (the ones with uneven texture). I personally feel the brush is too stiff for the foam pads especially the more abrasive blue pad, so I scrub them out by hand. If you scrub them by turning on the polisher upside down, just barely let the brush touch the surface. 

1.  There's multiple schools of thought.  Some people do IPA wipe down, some wash, some don't do either.  It comes down to your taste, attention to detail and time you want to spend.  The polishes usually finish down well though and you can get the residue off without too much effort.
 
2.  If you're using finish polish, I'd skip the Revive.  Revive has it's place.  I use it more like a cleaner/polish personally or to handle delicate areas I don't want to go after with a machine.
 
3.  You'll want to clean your pads every two to three panels.  You'll be able to tell when they're getting saturated as there's a significant difference in cutting power.  You can use the brush to help knock some of the polish out of the pads.  The best solution is to have a few sets of pads to rotate between.  If you're a casual detailer, this may not be the best solution.  In that case, keep the pads as clean as you can and enjoy!
 
Good luck and let us know if you have any other questions.

and yes...i wash that as well....
 
hahahhah.  

Aaaand we're done.
 

 
1. The casters may be too small for the irregularities of my haggard driveway, we'll have to see.
2. I couldn't get the bedliner to turn out evenly, and after going through $30 worth I decided to live with it.
3. My idea was to leave the bottle divider just sitting in place, that way I can just cut a larger one out if this gets filled up. Unfortunately when I roll the cart around the whole thing slides towards the towels, so I'll have to throw a screw or 2 in to keep if in place.
 
All in all it was a fun project and a good excuse to buy a few new power-tools, I just wish I had enough time each day to get it done in less than a week.

Had my buddy shoot some rollers for me after Cars & Coffee!
 

 

 

 

Welcome!  That's a nice Forester you've got there.