falcaineer

You bet, Kurt. Whatever you decide, looking forward to pics of the results!

Welcome, Rosendo! Be sure to post an intro on the New Member Check In thread. Yes, you can use it. It's great stuff! Just understand it will remove whatever protection there is on the car, including sealant, wax and glaze. It won't, however, remove coating. So if you use it on future vehicles, be prepared to reapply protection to that area.

I know some have switched to the boost as a standalone sealant, but have you considered HGG? Super easy to apply, it can go on anything, unlike the ceramic boost that's not to be used on glass. It's an acrylic/polymer based sealant and will also offer months of protection. I'd recommend the sealant go on first (most durable). Then if you go with glaze and wax, for the order, I'd apply the wax then BG. But the order is always a topic of debate! Try it both ways and see what you prefer. Good article here: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/

I agree with John. Since it's a garage queen, after correction, go straight to Americana or Patriot, then hit it with some BG just before you take it for a spin. No real need for the ceramic boost at all, in my opnion. Are we missing something, though?

Congrats on the new car! Your wife is gonna be spoiled! Ultimately, as you'll come to learn, there is no "best" way...what's "best" really comes down to what you're after, as waxes, sealants and coatings all have something to offer. You can even layer products. Suggest you start with this article, if you haven't read it already: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/. Here's what I'd suggest as a very high-level order of steps: Strip Wash Clay Polish (if necessary) Seal/Wax/Coat Plenty of good threads on here, so keep reading and asking questions. Great people on here, too, all willing to lend their experiences, so don't be shy!

, Martin! HGG is my favorite product from Adam's.

I understand this is said with some humor, but it's important to note there is a point of diminishing returns with multiple coats of waxes, as well as glazes and sealants. At some point...about 2 coats...the benefit both in protection and shine will zero out. You may even lose some shine since you'll eventually simply be smearing around the coats underneath vs. enhancing the paint.

Nope. Waxes and especially glazes will deplete faster than the sealant. While mileage will vary some, PS will last ~6 months, with the new fomula advertised to last "at least" 6 months. If you plan to apply sealant about twice a year (I do it early summer and again just before winter), that should keep you on track. Read this for a little more background: http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/27631-faq-should-i-use-wax-or-sealant-on-my-car/.

1 Year!!! Thanks to all of you for imparting some wisdom, some correction, some understanding, and some laughs. This forum is AWESOME! I wonder if Adam's will send me some stickers in honor of the "paper" anniversary?

I'm in!

Wowza!!!

Happy (belated) birthday, Adam! Was it a Pumpkin Spice cake???

And likely never stop! You think the car shines now? Just wait.

Hey, Jeff...that last one, or one like it, would be a great submission for this month's forum photo contest. http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/33735-october-2017-photo-contest-submissions/. Just sayin'.

Thought of another newbie tip (and reminder for those of us that have been around the block a couple times) - remember to start and stop the polisher when it's ON the paint. Otherwise, well, let's just say it could double as a pitching machine if you can imagine the polish is the ball...

Adam's and chocolate. Your grandson is definitely on to something!

Welcome, Shane!

LC smells awesome. WC smells like skunk.

First pointer: put a cold (adult, if applicable) beverage in the fridge...and open another. On to the detail! Since you're going to wash anyway, make it a strip wash to remove any old products from the paint. After that, one step I'd add is to VRT all trim and plastic (assuming you aren't coating it) to make removing any clay/polish residue super easy later. That way you aren't worried about bumping the pad against it. Following that up with clay and DS is next, but to take Wyatt's input a step further, you won't be able to tell with your hand if it's really needed...that's where the baggie test comes in. Place a plastic bag over your hand, and lightly rub the paint. If you feel bumps, and you probably will if it's never been done or been a while, clay it. And you don't even have to wash again before you polish...save a step, and go right to polishing. The polisher will only take a few pounds of pressure, and you will get the hang of it, so take your time. To make it easier, make a small line on the back of the pad as a visual reference so you can see the pad rotate slowly. Polish will leave a residue, and while I like to use a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol mix wipe down with blue WW towels, the Coating Prep will remove the residue and anything else left on the paint (it smells awesome, too!). Some other pointers: Watch out for sharp edges and corners on emblems, etc. They'll tear up your pads. For tape, do NOT use the kind with "locking" edges. Instead, simple blue painters tape or green automotive works well. Suggest you watch all the videos on coating...twice...and read the posts on here/ask any more questions before you begin. Finally...open that other frosty beverage, sit back, and admire the shine.

No, but I can guess it may be become a somewhat pricey endeavor. For blocky, off road tires, here's a great video from the Shine Doc on a process using TS. I'm pretty sure you could do much the same with VRT... [yt] [/yt]

^^^

Rob! Nice lookin' truck!

Nicely done, Dave! Who says white can't shine?!

Welcome to the addiction, Jason! LOVE the color!!! What products are you using to get that shine?