Nathan

I was a little off on the length of it but very close on the width!

Obviously you don’t hold the drill in the same spot long and you order an extremely soft one.

It’s not near me but I am guessing about half inch wide by 4 about inch long

Not sure I if this would work but worth a shot, use a drillbrush attachment (you can get them on amazon), and try using that with the leather and interior cleaner, it really cuts the time down and gets out deep stains.

That’s an awesome light for how small it is, better than most out there I’d say.

Bahahahaha

You’ve got to be kidding me...70-80! Lol that’s fine. I’d love that here

Claying is not necessary and should be avoided. Only clay if you need too, so if they area passes the bag test then it doesn’t need claying. Polishing is also not necessary, but since this is a mustang, I would probably polish it anyways to make the paint pop more! Once you are done polishing, you could do a 50/50 isopropyl wipedown or wash with strip wash or Adam’s shampoo with apc added. I would NOT use dawn. Put the dish soap back in the kitchen. Add 1-2 oz APC to Adams Car Shampoo or use the strip wash.

Lol. Just spray H20 guard once you are done, it takes like 5 minutes and then you can sleep!

Yeah I do it almost all the time. The reason some people use it is because after the heavy correcting compound they still have very light correction to do so they use the correcting polish.

Just do the car sections at a time. Add some quick protection like h20 guard. You could go without protection like most cars on the road today. But, well, look at those cars lol. Not very good condition.

Yes, you can skip it. I would unless you find that you need to do more correction. But normally I skip from the correcting compound (blue) to the finishing polish (white). Also yes, that wipe down is used to remove polish residue before applying a sealant, however, Adams finishing polish kind of preps the surface so you don’t need to do that with Adams, only if you want or are applying a ceramic coating.

Doing it by machine saves me product, and makes a more even coat making it easier to remove. It usually saves time, but I can hand wax so fast that I can do a car very fast by hand. Up to you lol

Get the microfiber revitalizer. A little goes a long way and it is specially formulated to remove waxes, compounds, etc. For spot treatment or leaving the towels to soak in a bucket, I use whichever one is closer lol. For washing I always use Microfiber Revitalizer.

I usually fill the bucket a quarter or half way and then add just a couple ounces APC or Mocrofiver Revitalizer and then I try to wash them as soon as I can

H20 guard will ruin towels, I soak them right when I am done using them. I soak them in a bucket with APC or MR

If you spray toward the line on the outside of the tire with a full trigger spray it works without making product go all over the wheels!

Awesome!

Leather and interior cleaner is a heavy duty cleaner, it will strip any leather conditioner in your interior. What I do every once in a while is clean with the LIC and then condition with LC, I maintain with only interior detailer. I would use only interior detailer if your car is clean, and then once the old leather conditioner is gone, clean it with interior detailer, and protect with LC! You could even use only interior detailer because it has light protection.

We have a club for making bigger sizes. We are even making t-shirts!

I avoid that by first wiping with the hex tire applicator around the tire, and then up and down the tire along the groves. Seems to work good.

Yes it was reformulated sometime around winter. I notice more cut and less dust!

Like others said, probaby deep scratch, use a touch up paint pen from the dealer, apply with paint touch up sticks, 2 coats clear coat. Next, wet sand with 3000, polish out wetsanding marks, finally protect it again. Let it dry between coats and before wet sanding.

Welcome back!

Do they catch your fingernail when you run it across?