RayS

Zipper peas

The spray wax works fine and I have used it many times myself. If you using a one of the higher end waxes, such as Americana, then I would recommend using detail spray instead of spray wax.

Time warp

Welcome to the Forum.

Tour bus

Ship parts

I finally have the workbench fully installed, including the metal pegboard, TV and various other accessories. The mild winter helped me keep progressing with staying warm enough in the garage to do the straining the coating on the cabinets and top only needing 2 or 3 days between coats. The ceilings fans also helped by circulating the air and pushing the warmer air down from the ceiling. They have timers built in so I could turn them on to run for multiple hours, so the temp pretty much always stayed above 50, even on the coldest nights. Now it is matter of getting the pegboard arranged the way I want it and then slowly move the tools out of Mary's garage. I'm still working on the little things and some are getting closer to being ready to be worked on. I'll put in a cable management system for the wires around the workbench, getting the fire extinguishers mounted and getting many more old license plates so I can finish the upper part of the side wall. I have all the wood for the sound enclosure for the air compressor, I just need to get the sound tiles to build that. I'm ready for detailing season to get started and ten the rest of the Adam's items will move in, excluding the gallons which I'll leave the climate controlled room in Mary's garage.

Hi Gian, Brilliant Glaze is generally not recommended for use on the film applied to some windows to tint them. However, when you get a vehicle that has a smoker or usage make normal washing problematic, then BG tends to cut through it pretty good. As for the green glass towels along with Adam's Glass Cleaner, I had not had any problem with either on the outsides of the windows. For the inside of the windshield, I only use Brilliant Glaze. For the inside of the doors and back window, I use Glass Cleaner and a borderless gray and it works very well.

Skills lacking

Identification badge

Hard to believe that it has been over 6 months since anyone posted on this thread. While the majority of my time is spent shining vehicles, this is a different twist since I finished the workbench top. Disclaimer: The information is not documented or endorsed by Adam's and following the items is strictly at your own risk. Never use a Pad on alternative objects that you intend to use again on a vehicle. The ones I previously used for headlights make great donors since they are usually abused, yet have plenty of life left in them for alternate uses. To get the shine I ended up with 10 coats of Spar Urethane, with #0000 steel wood and/or 600 grit sandpaper and a final sanding with 1000 grit. Anyone unfamiliar with Spar Urethane it has good resistance to UV light, can handle big temperature differences and generally does not crack or yellow. The top itself is Birch Butcher Block, 26 inches wide with two 8 foot sections. This was a slow process with a minimum of two days between coats, all actions were by hand. The polishing was accomplishing with a retired Adams' Headlight Kit using the Blue Pad with Compound, followed by a White pad and One-Stop-Polish and a final once-over with Polish. The last step was to go over it with Adam's Glass Cleaner and an old microfiber to remove all the residue. One of the things when doing wood and Spar Urethane is to limit the number of passes and don't dwell on any single spot - i.e. keep moving. I still worked 2 foot sections, actually 2 foot by 26 inches, kept it cool in the garage and worked quickly. I do believe the end result qualifies as shiny and an alternative use for Adam's products.

No, you do not need to discard them, just don't use them on the body of a vehicle. Use them for engine bay cleaning, the insides of wheels, exhaust pipes or anyplace that is not polished like the body is. To mark mine for non-body usage, I cut the corners off the towels along with storing them separately to ensure no cross contamination. Furthermore, since they are non-body towels, I hand wash them since they can get nasty with the areas I use them on.

Door Slam

Welcome to the Forum Dan.

Closed loop

Bar stool

Waves goodbye

Welcome to the Forum John.

Hi Jack, There are a few colors that are nearly impossible to see the rainbow and I've found that using different lights and angles helps, but I have not found anything that works every time. LED lights work fine on dark colored vehicles and my old Halogen shop light tends to work better on and the lighter colored cars. On a few of the vehicles I used and old flashlight with a regular bulb that I could easily change the angles on. When using the Halogen or old flashlight, I had to turn off the overhead LED's to be able to see the difference clearly and that is the only thing that was consistent. The best I can suggest is to experiment with the different lights that you have available and if one of them works stick with it and please post what worked.

Hi John, You have proven that you have a knack for writing and I enjoyed your article. My first concern is about the storage of your chemicals and ensuring that they do not freeze or overheat. If it is possible for you to keep your chemicals in a climate controlled environment, it would be best for their longevity. While I cannot tell you about the curing time for extreme cold, I do know that when it is below 50, there is a noticeable difference in using the chemicals. That has little to with the point that I live in South Carolina and anything below 50 is generally unacceptable. The next concern would be if you do take it out is what is used on the roads in Colorado. Some of the road deicing products can be harsh and can be gritty which could easily mar the paint surface when you do a waterless or rinseless wash. Other than waiting for a warm period to when you know you can do a proper wash or moving to a warmer climate, I'm not sure what else to suggest. However, we have many members from the colder areas, including one of our moderates. @falcaineer who lives in Colorado and may be able to provide some additional insight, including directions on how to get to the Adam's headquarters in Colorado. The car looks great and I'm not saying that because it is Red, but it most certainly does help.

Payment rendered

Hi @mpride63 Don't forget to add a proper introduction as a new member of the forum. No matter which method you use, the hood is going to require a full polish and protection added in the end and if you plan on keeping your Camaro looking great, invest in a polisher, and I'll recommend the Swirl Killer from Adam's they are sweet. I do not let any sit on the paint for long, it way too easy to have it cause etching or spotting, so anything you apply should be removed quickly and then cleaned with an appropriate product, such as Waterless Wash or even Detail Spray. I have deal with decal and wrap glue previously and found Goo Gone to work well. Using a throw away rag or towel, put the Goo Gone on the rag and hold it on the glue for a moment and then wipe it off, each pass will take a little more glue or adhesive off. If that does not get the results because it is too think or stuck too much, you can go to method two, which is using WD-40 and a Plastic Razor Blade - do not use a metal razor blade since it will cut the paint. If you do not have any plastic razor blades, you can them at almost any craft store or chair pharmacy or you can other them online. one hundred plastic razor blades are under $10 and can be used for many things, removing glue is just one of them. The WD-40 works to both loosen the glue and as a lubricant which is important to keep from scratching the paint too much. Light stead stead pressure works well for the glue and if you get get tree sap, it works very well for that. Make sure you was the area immediately after user Goo Gone or WD-40 on the area to prevent any paint damage.

Please reply

Naturally blonde

Jar lid