RayS

Hi Gian, For me the choice is pretty simple when it comes to drying aides. Hands down, it is Detail Spray. If the vehicle I'm working on is not Graphene coated, then I use regular detail spray. If the vehicle is Graphene coated, then I use Graphene Detail Spray. For maintenance on the garage queen when it gets a little dusty, it is either Waterless Wash for non-coated vehicles and CS3 or Graphene CS3 for Coated or Graphene Coated vehicles respectively. Regular Waterless wash work greats for getting bugs off the vehicle, just give the bug a squirt and let it dwell for a minute or two and it should wipe right off, then follow up with doing the entire vehicle as needed.

Welcome to the Forum Dave. I have a Foam Cannon, Foam Gun and pump up sprayer. For the dirty vehicles or when I know that I'm going to be doing multiple vehicles in a day, I pull out the pressure washer and use the Foam Cannon. I have found that with the Foam Cannon on hot and sunny days, the Foam Cannon provides plenty of foam to prevent drying before you get to it with your hand. The Foam Gun is for used when I have one vehicle, it is cooler and overcast and the vehicle is just getting a maintenance wash. It is easy to get out and clean up afterwards. The pump up sprayer is used for Tire and Rubber cleaner for the tires and wheels or if I need to do parts of the engine bay or underside. The small wand lets you get into places that the Cannon and Gun are a bit of a challenge for. The product you are using also makes a difference, in my opinion. When doing a Strip Wash, I like to make sure the foam gets on the vehicle and can dwell for a bit, so I prefer the Foam Cannon. Regular and Ultra Shampoo work well with the Foam Gun, Mega Foam really coats a vehicle with the Foam Cannon and Graphene Shampoo works equally well with both. Wash and Wax is a different beast and I'm found the Gun works best by doing a couple panels at a time or in the case of Motorhome or Travel Trailer doing a section at a time.

Welcome to the Forum. Feel free to ask any questions that you have, we're all here to help each other.

Night moves

Down payment

Templates rendered

Hi Ralph, Location and atmospheric conditions play a large part in the actions that I take. Generally if the rains are coming from the Gulf, I get very few water rings or spots and they tend to come right off with a wash, waterless wash or detail spray within a few days. If the rains are coming from the west and there are swamp or large forest fires, then it becomes noticeable on the vehicle and they do not come off as easy. In those cases, I try to wash and dry the vehicle the same or next day.

According to the condition of the vehicle, I use between 2 and 6 pads. The condition of the paint means much more than the size of the vehicle.

I have used both versions of CS3 on a Graphene vehicle and they both worked fine, but I believe the Graphene vehicle looks a little better when done with the Graphene version. It may just be my perception, so hopefully others will chime in.

Score sheet

Pony express

Similar to @Rich I have used Polish and the white pad on the Mustang and it worked well. I have also found that if something a bit more aggressive is needed for an area one step on a different white pad will usually do the trick.

Solo stove

I have used the ceramic spray coating on plasti-dip multiple times and it works well and looks good if the plasti-dip looks good. As for using plasti-dip on a on tonneau cover, I have not done that, but I have coated many hard and soft tonneau covers with Cermaic spray coating and Graphene coating. I am confident that the Graphene coating will work with plasti-dip, but have not tried it yet. As always, do a test spot before doing the entire cover to make it will look as you expect.

Hi Ahmed, If you choose to do a ceramic or graphene coating it has to go on top of the film. One of the common things to do is put PPF in the areas where the vehicle will host the most abuse, the front, behind the wheel wells and the rocker panels. Then you can coat the entire vehicle. The PPF will help protect against rock chips and such, although some can still leave marks. The coating will keep the vehicle looking good for a longer time and make it easier to keep clean.

Welcome to the Forum Kevin.

Time bandit

Wolf tracks

Welcome to the Forum Rob.

Owl feather

Hi Johnny, I had a similar situation and decided not to mix them. My reasoning was that I didn't want the dilute the Graphene CS3 and I had enough vehicles with regular ceramic coatings that I knew I'd work through the original CS3. When I first started that routine, I was using the original CS3 about 3 times for one time of the Graphene CS3 and now it is about the opposite. I'm down to maybe 24 ounces of the original left and within another month so, that will be gone. Of note, the original CS3 works good for doing the bug removal even on Graphene coated vehicles. I'll grab the original CS3, do the front end to get the bugs off and then do the entire vehicle with the Graphene CS3 afterwards.

Welcome for the Forum.

Goes running

The South Carolina heat and humidity do keep things interesting from May to October. I've found that if I can do the final prep in the evening and them start early enough in the morning to allow a final wipe down and enough time to complete coating before the heating index will get 95, it comes out fine. I've found that the higher humidity it more challenging that than just the temperature, but the combination of high humidity and heat push me and the chemicals past a workable state.

After over 5 years my tonneau cover got a hole in it and need to be replaced. The new cover arrived and was put on today and received a Graphene Coating. For the smaller boxes, I do the coatings in 4 sections and the first picture shows the first section once it was done. The different the coating makes it pretty substantial. The second picture is once the entire cover is complete. Of note, with the Graphene Coating, I cannot see it flash so I have to go by feel or 3 minutes, whichever is shorter.