ColoradoSHObro

Deals at HQ in Thornton we’re same today as they will be online tomorrow. %25 off chemicals %20 off everything else. Plus chances to win free mystery bucket for purchase over $100 and free canister vacuums for purchases over $250.

That’s great to hear shane! sounds like my compressor will be more than adequate. and i had the same thought after 1st use of my steamer although it’s not nearly as powerful as yours it sounds like. i’ve just got the mcculloch 1385. what do you find yourself using the tornador vs steamer on? i use my steamer on so much it’s hard to imagine needing another tool. so what niche does the tornador fit?

I use 10:1 apc on nearly every car i detail. Mostly on hard plastic pieces and leather usually. Just more economical and convenient to have one bottle you use around the whole car(i do use a different fabric cleaner on carpet). but that makes 3 bottles around the entire interior. 10:1 APC, fabric cleaner, and glass cleaner. Ive got loads of adams apc and leather and interior i need to put up for trade now that i think of it

Awesome thanks for the video. i recently got a steamer so tornador is the next tool on my list. few questions: is this a knock off tornador or THE tornador black? do you use the vacuum attachment ever? what cleaners do you use in the tool or just water? AND of course. . what are the specs of the compressor you run it on? ive got a 26gallon bostich. 4.1cfm@90psi so capacity is good but cfm a little lower than ideal so not sure if tornador would be my best choice.

Overall yes the products would play well together. H20 guard and gloss and wash and wax will be your best combo to protect your paint. They are both polymer based sealants that will support each other. My advice would be to wash your car as normal. (if you want to get optimal longevity from the sealants you can decon and claybar also) and then apply H20 via the wet method and then use wash and wax as your maintenance car soap from then on out as it will enhance the effects of the guard and gloss. As far as the detail spray and buttery wax goes . . . detail spray should just be used as any other detail spray as a last touch dust off for car shows.Buttery wax should be used on a clean car if you feel like going the extra mile and enhancing shine and gloss. However don't expect the buttery wax effects to last more than a week-ish. But it's so easy to apply so no biggie. Enjoy the products!

i went snowboarding a couple days ago and as my goggles were fogging up i wondered . . maybe i should put some brilliant glaze in my goggle lense to prevent fogging like i do my windshield!? haha anyone ever tried it?

i just meant switching the nozzle on the pressure washer lance so its not as strong of a pressure and doesn’t splatter everywhere. and i actually try to keep at least a foot away from the door jambs to avoid dislodging any rubber boots etc with the pressure. come to think of it i actually use the 25 degree green nozzle. no touching, no towels, saves a ton of time for me

open the door all the way, put the 40degree rinse nozzzle on and just shoot from the top down for the jambs then i sit in the seat and spray out for the bottom of the door panel. it sounds more messy than it is. if you’re careful you can do it with getting minimal moisture inside and just quickly wipe up any overspray. besides if i’m doing the interior it doesn’t matter. overall this method takes seconds and it’s touchless on most vehicles.

I do like steam to clean the door jambs but i've found it's even quicker to soak the door jambs in apc(or preferred cleaner) before i sit down to clean my wheels and then after i pressure wash the wheels off i hit the door jambs with the pressure washer and they're always squeaky clean after that. Even on a few customers cars that are pretty hammered i usually don't even have to touch the door jambs with this method. and +1 on treating the jambs with some sort of sealant to keep maintenance cleaning easy.

i was wondering this same thing recently when i did a rinseless wash. once i wiped the panel down with rinseless of course it’s wet and i really wanted to spritze some HGG and use it like a drying agent like a normal wash but wasn’t sure if i could mix the HGG with rinseless solution. my guess is it would be fine as the solution is very diluted anyhow

My daughter came home with her brand new pseudo leather boots all dirtyed up and asked “can we. clean them with your adams stuff you use to clean cars daddy?” haha. . . what a silly question. start them young

surely different opinions at play. he didn’t tell me you COULDNT or even SHOULDNT do it but more that he recommends not to and that he never would because there’s no benefit to applying LPS as your last step. and yes, as enthusiasts we do layer a lot of products on our cars without issue. however i think the game changes when you’re talking 2 powerful chemical sealants that compete over bonding to the paint. quite a bit different than layering wax over sealant. im sure as CPW gets used more widely a lot of these questions will be answered through experience.

ok i stopped by adams HQ this morning and talked to phillip who works in the shine stop. got the low down on this layering process and he pretty much told me don’t layer LPS and CPW in any way. they’re different chemical families and not meant to go together. furthermore he rated the CPW longevity at a year and said there’s no point in going over it with another form of protection. just use ceramic boost as a topper occasionally. he didn’t say there would be any ill effects if you did layer the 2 but warned that mixing so many different chemicals onto a finish can produce some unintended effects. so it boils down to this: if you want long term protection use LPS and top with HGG-this process is cheap,simple,and easy. if you want to step up in shine and longevity then use CPW and top with CB. but keep the polymers with polymers and SIO2 products with SIO2 products. i think that’s a simple school of thought to follow.

hmm that makes me really curious. i wonder if the CPW is the more durable of the 2 types of protection or it just needs to bond to the paint more than LPS to work properly. I would also think LPS would agree a little more with HGG and CPW with ceramic boost as each are in the same chemical family. in fact am adams rep once told me you shouldn’t layer HGG and ceramic boost.

In general do these 2 play well together? plan on doing a correction to my vehicle soon. I'll be using correcting polish with a microfiber cutting pad(metallic black paint is pretty hard) first then I'd really like to use the LPS after correction to give it extra protection and i think it would pretty much serve the purpose of a finishing polish also. but the end goal is to apply Ceramic paste wax and if the LPS don't layer well with CPW i'll have to re-think my process. Thanks for any help!

^when did the longevity of HGG jump up to 6-10 months!?

looks like you got good foam. mind sharing what you used and how many oz in the foam cannon? i have that exact same ryobi pressure washer

i’ve experienced the same issue somewhat. as mc2hill said you don’t need a lot of water in your wash bucket. 2-3 gallons is plenty and then 1-1.5oz of shampoo should be plenty. also you don’t need to fill your foam cannon completely. i usually fill mine up half way with 2oz of UF and it’s more than enough to foam my large sedan. i think it’s a little bit ridiculous that adams expects you to use 6-8 ounces of shampoo per wash(3-4 in bucket and foam cannon). assuming someone uses 8oz per wash a 16oz bottle of UF will only get you 2 washes which equates to $7.50/wash! i do everything i can to conserve that expensive shampoo and have even started using it just in the foam cannon and use cheap store bought car soap in the bucket so i don’t feel wasteful if i wanna dump 3oz or more in my small wash bucket.

^ beauty! my dad has the same color vette coated at adams shine shop. was that your 1st time costing?

cool those are the kinds of lights i’ve been looking into just wanted to make sure i was on the right track. thanks for the suggestions!

care to share a link to the lights you used in the new workspace?

Goals-enough light to paint correct. Space- large 1 car garage so really quite small in the grand scheme of things. Budget- well of course i'd like to get away with it as cheap as possible. I'd really prefer something i don't have to hold(other than for inspection) or a tripod that sits on the ground as it cramps space. I was thinking more in the way of LED bar lights that i could mount on the side walls and overhead.

My Grandfathers old truck left to my Uncle after he passed. The recent respray done on it was god awful but i was able to bring out the shine. Fun stuff

Is there affordable handheld or shop mount lights you recommend? Lighting upgrade is my next priority

It would be awesome if that scent was available as a car air freshener!