brihvac

10 hours ago, falcaineer said:

 

Didn't know there was a Door #3! I don't even have a place for another washer 😵. Good to hear you found something you're comfortable with. 👍

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ICBLBL0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I solved the washing machine thing....I just bought a new one to dedicate to microfibers. They sell those small compact ones and a guy on the FB detailing page had a big right up on one. I guess I will soak immediately after every use and wash at the end of the week. I am going to wash in All free and clear. Can I spray Simple Green directly on the tough stains on the towel to remove them? should I do that in the soak or before I wash?

3 hours ago, Norton said:

 

I've washed my microfiber in our household washer for nearly a decade with ZERO ill-effects on anything (i.e., the microfiber, the washer, the dryer, or other clothing/fabrics washed/dried separately in the machines).  I soak my towels in water with MRB amd white vinegar immediately following use, until I wash them. I pre-treat heavily-soiled areas with APC and wash in hot water with dye-free/perfume-free liquid HE detergent and extra rinse cycle. I dry them on low heat and no softner, usually pulling them before completely dry and allowing them to air-dry for that last little bit.

 

Since microfiber can be "rejuvenated" with a dip in boiling (200+ degrees) water and white vinegar solution, I don't see how hot tap water (~115 degrees) is going to hurt the towels.

 

LOL! I never asked. I've just always washed/dried my microfiber in the household washer/dryer we both helped buy and pay to operate. There's no way I'm trundling to a laundromat and using machines that have had God only knows what in them, when we have perfectly good, clean machines a few steps from my garage.

MRB? Do you soak them immediately after use then let them dry or are you using that many towels that you are washing that often? I might be washing every 2 months or so except my drying towels.

I just watched a Adams "water cooler" video on YouTube and even the guy there said you might not want to wash them in your household washer. Also he said the rejuvenation spray is just an additive. You still have to use soap. Also everything I have read has said to always wash your good microfibers in cold water and very low heat dry.

5 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

I do it all the time, as do most others. The MRB breaks it all down, and I haven't seen any ill effects on clothes. I wash mine after every use, but it may be a while between washes.

 

P.S. Moving this to the Towel and Accessory thread...

 

And here's a thread on cleaning them, if you haven't seen it already.

 

 

I have seen that and all the other info I find on the net contradicts what it says.

Isn't it bad to wash microfibers in your house washer? I would think all the wax, compound, etc would get into the washer and ruin your clothes after that. From all I have read they want you to wash your microfibers after every use. Even your drying towels.

I really wish Adam's would tell you what is in their products. Seems like most paint sealants have polymers in them. Does Adam's? They say you can use SiO2 toppers so who knows. I do not like how vague they are with what is in their products

Can a SiO2 spray be used over top of a polymer paint sealant to maintain it?

14 minutes ago, SgtLip said:

 

And that would be?

I found some old post here that said there is no difference between the trim and paint coating. As a matter of fact the paint coating is a little better being 9H. The only difference in coating  is the wheel coating  because It can handle heat better

Think I found my answer

What is the best towel for drying? I have heard waffle weave but which Adams towel?

Is there a difference between the paint and trim ceramic coating? Since I have left over paint ceramic I was going to use it on my trim. I see the trim is 5H and the paint is 9H so I would think I would be OK. Anyone know?

I am still waiting on a order from last week that still says "unfulfilled". Of course I only got 15% off that one.

Tonight I just ordered the new ceramic spray, one step polish, 64oz of ceramic boost, and 2 interior cockpit brushes for the leather and alcatrenza.

On my 2 newer small SUV's I am going to use the one step polish with a orange pad. I think I am going to get the 9H paint coating and do the 2 SUV's with that as I am still on the fence with the longevity of the spray coating. I will just use the spray ceramic on the plastic. I am just thinking if I am going to machine correct I might as well do the regular coating as that is the easy part.

Here's a question thinking 18-24 months down the road. I posted before about reading that you are not supposed to keep buffing on clear coat as to wearing it down. So towards the end of the ceramics life I was thinking of doing the fine clay bar and a really fine polish to take out any small imperfections then re-coat with more 9H. My question is what should I use? With a white pad; I was thinking of either the white finishing polish, Revive hand polish (with a machine), or Brilliant Glaze. My goal is to remove any imperfections with little to no wear off the clear coat.

Question 2- Can I use a 50/50 mix of rubbing alcohol and water in place of Surface Prep?

Are they any decent professional detailing forums that have frequent post? I have seen some but they have not been active in months. I have questions about non-Adams stuff.

2 hours ago, falcaineer said:

I would recommend if/when you clay, just use the fine grade clay bar. It's less aggressive and perfect for use on a coating.

How about the clay mitt? I would rather use that

2 hours ago, RayS said:

Hi Brian,

I use various products on the vehicles that I take care of and they range from garage queens, garage kept daily drivers to being outside 100% of the time.  The Buttery wax will last 2 weeks to a month for an outside vehicle, the amount of sun makes a difference.  Ceramic Paste Wax will last 8+ months for an 100% outside vehicle, I'm not sure how much beyond 8 months, simply because that is longest that it has been on a vehicle that I deal with.   I expect the Ceramic Spray Coating to last equal or longer than the Ceramic Paste Wax.

 

No matter which product(s) you use, you still need to do regular two bucket washes and maintenance, such as monthly Ceramic Boost or Wash + Coat.   The products are new enough that we don't know the true length and and under what conditions.  However, I can say that I am completely satisfied with the application, maintenance and looks of the Adam's products that I've used so far and for the family vehicles they will all get Ceramic Paste Wax or Ceramic Spray Coating.

2-4 weeks? Well that kinda sucks. According to the Adams description of the ceramic paste wax it says it last twice as long as carnuba wax. So that would only be 2 months or so. For $90 I would just spend another $30 more and do a real ceramic coat that last 2 years. They say the spray last 6-8 months. Do you machine polish your car every time before you apply ceramic wax or spray? From what I have read it is not good for your clear coat to keep knocking it down with abrasives.  Especially if your doing it every 8 months.

Does detail spray make stuff glossy? I ask because can I spray it in my engine compartment to give it a low luster shine? I have tons of this stuff that I am never gonna use. I have been giving it away.

I just saw today they changed the formula and it is "new". My question is how long does it last on a daily driver that sits outside? Is it better than being coated with butter wax? I just Revieve Hand Polished, and Butter waxed mine, and my wifes, daily driver and was wondering if this would be a better option for better protection.

I have read tons of detailing forums about watching how much you buff on clear coat because you are wearing it down every time. How do you know when you are coming to the end of your ceramic coating life? If you are using ceramic boost once a month you are going to always be beading. Do you re-coat without buffing? Do you use a polish and not a abrasive? Otherwise you will be using a abrasive buffing every 2 years wearing down your clear coat. I am thinking if you use a polish while you still have a little coating on that you would be buffing the ceramic and not the clear coat. Am I making any sense?

3 hours ago, falcaineer said:

Use the BG and make some room for trophies on the ride home!!

Brilliant Glaze will not hurt , or shorten the life of the ceramic coating?

46 minutes ago, falcaineer said:

 

Most likely, yes. Percentage is TBD, i can almost bet 15% minimum, but if you search "Labor Day" you might find some historical posts... Keep in mind ceramics generally aren't included in sales, but it could happen.

Around Christmas is when I got my ceramic coating on sale

Is Adams gonna be having any Labor Day sale? I'm going broke buying all this stuff. Ceramic waterless wash is not cheap. LOL

9 hours ago, Yo-Yo Ma's Cousin said:

Yes! Waterless was is safe to use on ceramic coating. It will tackle light dirt/dust easily. Check out Rinseless wash you may be interested in that. It can save you some money because you can dilute 16:1 in water to make a bottle of waterless wash.

 

i do love ceramic waterless wash, it’s is good for cleaning and leaving a small amount of extra protection in your ceramic coat.

 

 

Problem I see with ceramic waterless wash is if you are using it once a week it will build up and have a negative effect like ceramic boost. I have read on here a guy was using Ceramic boost a lot and it actually dulled his finish. I do not want that to happen to me which is why I didn't want to use anything like ceramic boost which the Ceramic waterless wash is similar.

So I only drive my Dodge Challenger on weekends and take it to a car show now and then. It does not see rain unless I get caught in it. I need something to take surface dirt off and the occasional water spots. My car is ceramic coated. Can I use the waterless wash spray for this? I have Ceramic boost to use monthly or so but need something for in between to clean off road dirt. I saw Adams has Ceramic waterless wash but I do not feel I need that seeing I use the ceramic boost once a month or so. Plus its a lot more expensive than the regular spray. Seems like it would be overkill to get the ceramic waterless wash while I am also using ceramic boost. BUT I am not a professional. Is the regular waterless wash safe to use on ceramic coating?

On 8/18/2019 at 5:57 PM, falcaineer said:

 

If it has cured, you'll have to polish it off and reapply in that area. Try FP first and white pad, if you have it. Otherwise, step up to orange CP and orange pad. Not a big deal...once leveled out, reapply and remove residue as usual.

Question:

I did what you said and the marks came right off with correcting polish. So I polished and re- ceramic the entire hood. I still see shadows in the hood after applying the ceramic. They are not real bad but I still see them. If I use something like the correcting polish or Revive hand Polish lightly by hand (before ceramic boost) will that remove the shadows WITHOUT removing the ceramic?