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Posts posted by Kingsford
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It's meant more for tires, plastics that have wax on them, or oxidized trim.
Use APC as mentioned above. It will degrease more and be more cost effective.
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I would still put VRT on them.
Flat would be the best way to avoid flat spots on the tires from sitting.
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I've never been a fan of the polishing over the top of other polish for a few reasons.... You can't see your progress and know if what you are doing is working but moving onto the next step. The dry polish on the paint seemed to clog pads faster. It also seemed to cause a lot more dusting than normal. Everyone has their own process.
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Too much or you're working it too long and it's drying.
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Tide. Wash it in the washer.
Worse case it gives it character.
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Counter productive. Dry with Detail Spray or Rinseless Diluted.
Also claying may lead to small scratches and swirls in the paint because of the contaminants that it picks up. This is why I only clay if I plan on polishing afterwards.
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Buy a new cover.
Not knowing what Trim or the VIN of the Explorer is I couldn't find the exact part but it didn't look like it would cost more than $60
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Our Wash & Wax is more of a "wash & seal" but most average customers identify with the word "wax" more easily than "seal".
Adam's Wash & Wax has protection derived from silica, found in ceramic coatings. The Wash & Wax has nowhere near the durability of some of the professional ceramic coatings on the market that can last upwards of 3-5 years, but it does add some awesome water beading protection. On my personal truck, I brought it down to bare paint with multiple passes of our Strip Wash, and then washed a few days later with our Wash & Wax.
And now we know!
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Strip wash soap prior to H2O GG might be even better then? I don't plan to liquid paint seal this vehicle, just guard and gloss with wash and wax maintenance washes.
Would this be the better option?
No the best option is Liquid Paint Sealant and using H2O GG to maintain that from a protection point of view. Wax doesn't tend to last very long and doesn't protect as well. IMO Wax is used to enhance and slightly protect paint as a topper. Heat will dissolve wax very fast. If you are looking for protection and just protection, Seal and Seal. If you want that little extra pop, Seal Seal, Wax.
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You can probably still use the Guard and Gloss. However it may not last quite as long as it would if it were bonded directly to paint.
If you plan on using Guard and Gloss, if it were me, I would wash with regular soap that has no wax additive and then do your H2O GG routine whether it be dry or wet method.
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May want to try claying again. Even though it rarely leaves the garage, it still leaves the garage and you could have driven through something.
Usually when it gets grabby like that it usually gets to be clayed.
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I wouldn't trash it. I just wouldn't use it on a vehicle.
I turn all of my ruined/worn out towels into house cleaning towels.
No sense in throwing away something that will still work. Reuse Repurpose Recycle.
- avimore and Ricky Bobby
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Dan, I have a suggestion. I got one of these somehow and I have never used it because I would have to unscrew my license plate and put it back on. Kind of inconvenient if you only have one and take pictures of your car from front and back. What about putting a magnet on the back for future runs?
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Guys, again... Adam's does not make the Wheel Woolies, they are just a reseller. Google Wheel Woolies and you'll find about 100 different places you can purchase the 3 pack. The company that makes Wheel Woolies make the 45* brush exclusively for Adam's, the 3 pack is available other places.
Edit: I believe I can post this link without breaking a forum rule. They may be cheaper else where but they are available on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/ABN-WBMF-CKIT-Wheel-Woolies-3-piece/dp/B005NRRNVO
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If the red grip spins, get some shrink wrap and wrap some of the red grip and the stick together.
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I believe Adam's only carries the 1 Wheel Woolie that is a 45* Angle.
However, if you are referring to the one that has a handle thinner than a pencil then I'd have to agree. But seeing as Wheel Woolies are made by another company, this probably won't go anywhere.
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Just remember it's not easy (or sometimes possible) to remove swirls and scratches by hand, especially if its as bad as you make it sound.
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What's G&G W&W and lpg
These used to AutoCorrect once posted to the full product name... What happened to that?
Also LPG is Liquid Propane Gas (not sold by Adam's)
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Looks fine. It's just a deep scratch. Just because you can't feel it with your nail doesn't mean it's not deep.
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I would try the microfiber with Correcting Polish but keep to the normal speed. Higher speeds can ruin pads. The heat and force can separate the hook and loop from the foam.
It's easy with the right tools, right pads, right polishes and right conditions.
A Flex will correct faster than any other DA because of the forced rotation but it's hard to finish with. Rupes are good for just about anything which makes them the best overall devices IMO. A PC will take a long time to do anything because it's weak but eventually it will get the job done. Obviously Rotary's are fast correctors but are a bit more dangerous and will require a DA to clean up the holograms.
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Ok, I still stand by everything I said before but I'll add the following; Deeper scratches require quite a bit more work. Use 4" pads with a drill to get them out. It will leave holograms because it's a rotary tool but it'll come out with a Dual Action machine. Scratches like that will require much more time and patients. Be sure to keep the rotary moving or you will burn through your clear.
Protecting new tires to be placed in storage
in Wheels, Tires, Trim, & Undercarriage
Posted · Edited by Kingsford
If you put them in a bag, don't apply VRT because it will generate moisture. If you leave them out in the open, apply VRT.
I'd leave them in the open. If you seal them in a bag moisture can accumulate from many different ways. Even though they are new, VRT will prevent any dry rot and keep them looking nice.