Kingsford

There is a sort of cure time, you're supposed to let it get a little hazy. 

If you've used it before with no issues then the problem is probably elsewhere. Use a utility towel and glass cleaner to clean the wiper blades. Spray the glass cleaner on the towel and then go back and forth over the wipers rubber.

Wipers chatter for mainly 2 reasons, old/dirty wipers or dry windshield.

Sorry I should of stated it better I meant to say the water drying not detail spray. I do one panel at a time with the detail spray but sometimes when I get to the other side of the truck the water is almost dry. Didn't know if I should hose the panel down with water and than apply the detail spray

Work faster by drying less. Use a pooling method to get the majority of the water off the paint before you start to dry. Some water will begin to dry but the DS will remove the any small spots that were just formed.

Work a panel at a time. 

I use a tongue depressor and spread whatever polish I'm using over the whole face of the dry pad.

They do die cuts every so often.

I have the one mentioned above and like it but sometimes find it difficult opening and closing and have since found a different one to try

Water overtime will cause build up of calcium, rust and other things. I had the same happen to both of mine. Loosened the nut on to and soaked in CLR mixed with water. I also opened and closed it a few times while it was submerged in CLR (wear gloves). I then let it soak in distilled water to get the CLR and then ran water through it for a while to flush it even more before using it on a vehicle.

Like I said... I've had mine for nearly 10 years (3 years with hard water), pretty good for $20 IMO. Dramm makes good products.

This is not the cheapest valve to be found...but I have a few of them and don't regret paying the price. Very nice quality and works really well.

I've had 2 of them for almost 10 years.

https://www.amazon.com/Dramm-22373-Aluminum-Shut-Off-Valve/dp/B002HJGUUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487885564&sr=8-1&keywords=dramm+valve+aluminum

Probably the same GSM. However, size affects how much water a towel can hold.

For example, if you used 3-4 Waterless Wash Towels (16x24), you may have been able to use just 1 Drying Towel (26x40)... Again just an example.

VRT looks nice on the vinyl bed covers but it will run down the bed sides when it rains. I have tried all sorts of different ways to apply it and not have it run down the side of the truck but it always does, even after numerous wipe downs to remove excess. It looks nice but just be aware.

The Backflip. Wash it like any other part of the vehicle, seal it with HGG, maintain with detail spray. If you apply VRT to the backflip it will have nothing to soak in to.

Thanks! Any advice on how long to wait to do a daily driver detail after adding a fresh layer of sealant and glaze? 

It depends what you mean by "Detail". If you just Sealed and Glazed it, it was just detailed in my mind.

I wash my Microfiber Applicators in the washer. Never had an issue.

Anything that is just foam I wash by hand with APC.

I understand the first step (stripping), for the 2nd step is there only 1 product for claying.. the visco clay bar?

Adam's only offers the Visco Clay. There are clay alternatives but they have mixed reviews. There are other types of clay out there as well.

I'm kind of looking for a correct answer so I'll avoid asking the dealer 

Correct answer then would be no. Better safe than sorry. Assume the worst and hope for the best. *Insert other quotes that apply*. 

Just clay, correct and seal and be done with it.

If they do it's not much. It would be worth it to clay, correct and seal. More than likely it has rail dust and overspray on it.

Try soaking them in APC or Strip Wash before tossing them out.

Why not both? Seal it with HGG and then top it with Americana.

I don't believe this is true. MANY people successfully use H2O over PS.

 

The surface should be clean, but not necessarily stripped.

I use Paint Sealant and then HGG to maintain it.

If they told you no paste wax, that would probably mean no sealant or coating ether.

I wouldn't apply HGG without washing well first with soap and water (unless you just washed and the Waterless is to maintain). Also I'd skip the Detail Spray as it has mild wax properties and you want HGG, because it's a sealant, to bond to the bare paint and not a wax.

UPS is by far the most expensive. 

I usually go USPS with flat rate boxes. I've never had an issue shipping anything USPS, nothing has ever been denied. Just make sure you tell them its a liquid and if it's an aerosol.

If these are the same Nozzles I have, I love them. Been using them for about a month or two now with Detail Spray and HGG. Nice pattern, comfortable on the hand, and they seem sturdy.

See this is what always happened in the past with this thread. People would just say look somewhere else and Adam's never branded one. I think the A logo would be cool on it. The one I have is just plain blue.

I'd buy an A logo one, I bring mine to High School football games and it always get stolen by my wife.

I used diluted Rinseless Wash. Gives good lubrication and isn't as expensive and Detail Spray.

I've always washed mine with towels. Never had any issues. 

Sometimes the foam would move inside and make a odd shape but it's easy to put back to normal.