Kingsford

1. I think you're problem probably lies hidden under the carpet or up in a panel. Probably a dead little something in there.

2. Yes it will help with smoke smell... Like Dustin (Mariner) said, spray it in the footwell and run the AC with the air on recirc. 

The new one appears to look a lot like the original foam gun Adam's had quite a few years ago. If it is, I still use that foam gun and it's probably 5-6 years old now and never had an issue with it.

Give it a good snap by holding both ends of the towel and pulling tight really fast. It'll suck the thread back in.

Happened to a few of mine... Still dries though. Mine got caught on plastic molding around the windshield on my old truck.

Thats why you debadge! 

45* Wheel Woolie

http://adamspolishes.com/adam-s-wheel-woolie.html

Currently, Paint Sealant or Rinseless Wash.

Don't use sticky traps and don't use poison.

Use snap traps with bait. 

Poison can cause harm to other animals. Sticky traps are just cruel.

Clay, Polish, Seal, just like you would any other imperfection.

It's not overkill to add wax after all of that. It's actually pretty typical. You don't always have to polish and seal to add wax. Since Sealant lasts much longer than wax, you could wax more often than you seal, if that makes sense.

I really love Patriot Wax. It gives a great shine but thats not all of the pluses... It also is super easy to apply and remove compared to other waxes out there and because you can/need to apply it in thin layers a jar lasts a super long time. 

Really miss it. Was great for wheels.

This works well...ONLY IF the correct abbreviation is typed in. 

 

I wish it would give suggested abbreviations so that if something close is entered they desired abbreviation good then be selected.

Thats digging into the way the software is designed to work. Adam's buys the Software from IP.Board and that is not something they have implemented in their software as far as I know. It seems like it would be hard to do because it would have to be heavy in HTML5, Java or Flash. Java and Flash are on their way out for many reasons, mainly because they are system resource hogs and have huge vulnerability holes, which just leaves HTML5.

If that is a feature you are dead set on, the right place to go would be IP.Board.

https://invisionpower.com/

Update: Found it.

http://www.adamsforums.com/topic/31826-acronym-expansion/

And the acronym for the Merino would probably be MWM (Merino Wool Mit)

There used to be one on here. Having trouble getting the search feature to work for me right now. I think a Moderator made it at one point.

That has always been a feature of Adam's Shampoo/Soap. Because it's pH Neutral, it won't leave marks on the paint if it dries. However, if you have hard water, it could spot a little but should come off unless it's really hard water and etches the paint.

Clay and Polish.

Its harder water that accumulates in the gap between the trim and panel and eventually runs down to the bottom and down the paint. By the time is starts to run down the paint at the bottom, it dries up and the minerals leave behind the residue you see in the picture.

I had rubber door trim like this on my 2011 Chevy Colorado, it did the exact same thing. I removed the rubber trim and it gave the doors a much cleaner and smooth look.

Picture without the molding:

Ok, I may have missed it, but what exactly does "priming" a pad mean? Shot of DS? Something else?

Priming a pad is applying polish to the pad evenly before you begin polishing. This way the polish you apply when first starting out doesn't just soak into the pad and cause the pad to be dry quicker. 

I use a tongue depressor to spread the polish onto the face of the pad, that way it doesn't get all over your hands and what not. I choose a tongue depressor over popsicle sticks because they have to meet a higher level of standard (meaning there isn't a chance of a splinter of wood coming off into the pad).

Detail Spray is really only used to liven up polish on a pad if it is drying out, I actually see people doing this less and less. I know I stopped doing it because it didn't seem to do much.

I think the priming has more to do with which pad you are using vs. old/new pads.  Always prime MF pads, your choice on foam pads.

I went many years without priming Foam Pads by spreading the polish onto the pad, I regret not doing it sooner. 

I found if you don't prime the pad with polish the pad will just absorb the polish the first pass or two. It also seems like you end up using more polish when you don't prime.

Doesn't matter if it's a new pad or old pad, I'd prime every time you put a clean pad on.

I always turn mine to the X when I'm not using it as well. Prevents leaks from pressure changes in the atmosphere.

When I do diamond plate on rigs I use a MF Pad and Metal Polish. To remove the polish I wrap an old towel (doesn't matter if it's MF or not) around the pad, which takes some practice and patience to get it from coming off.

Hard to reach areas, Mothers Powerball, Powerball Mini and Power Cone. Be careful because rough diamond plate will just shred them to pieces.

Generally when you are polishing something that old that has never been polished its going to be a lot harder if not impossible to get it looking like new again. We do the diamond plate on all of our trucks once a year. The older ones that were in service before we started doing it once a year don't compare to the newer trucks who have always had it done.

Sometimes on softer paint you will need to use a pad that has no cutting to finish polishing and let the polish do all of the work.

I don't use Adam's Polishing system but I will use their products as an example of what I do. Correcting Polish with the Orange Pad (only if needed), followed by Finishing Polish with a White pad and then I do 1 or 2 passes with Finishing Polish on a Black Pad. All paint is different and requires different approaches sometimes.

Also the best advise that was given to me ever about polishing... You'll never get a Daily Driver 100% so don't stress over it, you'll just drive yourself nuts. 

Jason......with that mix, my friends have had issues with streaking while claying. Even with 4oz. of Waterless Wash, it still streaked.  I'm sticking with a dedicated Clay Lube.....Thanks anyways.

If you are claying then streaking is a non-issue, the paint is going to be polished afterwards anyway, if the detail is done properly.

Wash (and/or Strip), decontaminate (clay), polish, seal, add toppers if desired in that order. Shouldn't really be claying if you aren't going to polish because you're just introducing scratches into the paint.

For $15 you could get a 16oz bottle of Rinseless Wash and put 2 ounces in a gallon jug and have a gallon of Clay Lube. Its so easy. There is no need for to make a dedicated lube. Sorry I'm just failing to see the upside of a dedicated lube.

For $15 you can get 8 gallons of clay lube.

Interesting... Just don't see the point in a dedicated clay lube. It's just watered down product that serves no other purpose.

I use diluted Rinseless. Serves multiple purposes per gallon. No need to buy yet another product when an existing product is already capable of serving the purpose.