ledger64

So I have discovered that keeping products isn't a good thing. I recently moved into a new home and the garage gets really hot! like70- 80ish. I can imagine it will also get cold in th ewinter. Can I still keep my products in the garage or is that too hot?

Those temp ranges are exceptable for storage of chemicals.  I used to keep all my products out in the garage during the summer and then bring them in the basement for the colder New England months.  I am lazy / too much stuff so I just keep it all in the basement now.

curing = dwell time for it to sit on the surface. 

Essentially the product should sit on the vehicle until it dries.  Depending on product, temp, humidity, and the amount used will greatly effect removal.  The longer you wait should make it easier to remove.

sounds like folks aren't waiting long enough. 

$20 for 8oz really isn't that bad I would put it in the middle of the range prize wise compared other polishes and compounds.  Really though options would be nice for larger capacities but realistically the typical buyer that polishes 1 - 3 cars a year if that will have the leftover product issue. plus those bottles are pretty nice.

always has been and always will be VRT for me

 But whatever floats your boat, as ultimately, it's your decision.

This is the key right here.  its whatever you feel like!

I am the type that uses

a sealant with sealant maintenance products

a wax with wax maintenance products

a coating with coating maintenance products.

Today's sealants are far more durable and have tons of gloss so unless this is a car I take on weekends or to the car show when its nice out I wouldn't waste time and money on putting any wax down on anything.

But hey if you want to use Patriot by all means or Americana. Some people enjoy the process and thats cool. 

Those look like paint gouges down to the bare plastic underneath. I'm assuming that is a front bumper from the picture? 

 

Unfortunately those will need to be filled in with touch-up paint. I would try to fill them with multiple thin layers, allow to cure, then if you're comfortable with it, wet-sand them down, and then polish back out. Wet-sanding can be tricky and damaging if you sand down too far. 

 

Having the area sanded, re-primed, re-painted/blended by a body-shop would be the best solution to making it look new again.

Dr ColorChip and do what Dan said if you aren't going to go the repaint way.

agreed 100%. or learn to live with them.

hmm...I would just put down the sealant and then follow up with H20 GG a week or so later. That should make things POP just fine

Keep wax for a show car. 

Glaze is a filler application that I would only use if I needed to make something look great for a temporary application like going to a car show or meet.

Additionally,  I do tend to find better control and usability with the smaller dia. plate and pads on the flex.  Its amazing how just an inch smaller really makes the unit that much more versatile.

Not sure if there will be enough room running the 5.5" pads on the flex.  The OEM backing plate is 5.5" and its made to run 6" maybe someone can chime in that has bought these but I run a different setup on my flex so can't say for sure.

For the PC you can get a 5" backing plate and run those 5.5 pads. Adams does sell this. just search in the store for backing plate

You can get a smaller backing plate for the flex that would probably work better.  I do feel though that flat face pads tend to be better on the flex then a waffle type.  Neither the after market backing plate or flat face pads are sold here so pm for more info if you like

I don't think anyone that is using a wax should be overly concerned with longevity.  Chances are if you are using a wax you are either going to be the type of person that regularly maintains and won't have to worry about it or you are putting it on a non daily driver so it will last a considerable amount of time.  If you are looking for something that is going to have good longevity then why not use a sealant or coating?

Hard paint - takes a lot to correct

RIDS - show up more when you remove the lighter ones

Micro-marring  - you don't want to work backwards.  don't put scratches in while your taking them out. 

All seem like they could be happening here.

work a test section dial in the right combinations and use that as your guide. also you want to be consistent it what pads/product your using.  If you can't remember what you used with what and where take some pictures or journal it.

Speaking of pictures they would probably help out to better determine the issue you are having.

how old are the products?  possible contamination in those areas.

Yes the layer debate....  I don't layer usually and if i do never that quickly and would only use glaze if i was wanting to add some quick gloss and hide imperfections before a show, cruise, night out, etc.

I would have stuck with the LPS and then on my next maintenance wash topped it with a wax if needed.  Considering this is most likely your daily driver i would top with a sealant like HGG.  Keep that wax for a show car...

85 degrees... was it humid???  sounds like that hour between sealant and wax wasn't long enough.  I would have just stuck with the LPS and forgone the glaze or wax. 

Michael, have you seen any "funky" results spraying H2O over wet Rinseless? 

There should be no concern here.  I have been doing it for years

So you apply water before using WW...and rinse after using RW?!

 

It's awesome you found something that works, but its seems like two too many steps! 

yes.  doesn't take any time at all.  the first rinse before WW ensures that any larger debris gets a chance to be first rinsed off without touching the paint with any media that could induce swirls.

The very quick after rinse puts some extra water on there to help activate the HGG. 

Really these two steps should add 5 or 10 mins to the entire process.

nice job very thorough review....

I think this marketing campaign shows that the traditional gear head is slowing dying.  Changing of the times.  American muscle is dying.  Exotic, and flashy are in.  It shows that you can put a paint job costing thousands on anything, camber the wheels so they wear uneven and make the exhaust sound raspy and be the coolest thing since the other side of the pillow.  Not that there is anything wrong with it but I guess its just not for me.

There is a new generation out there,  marketing is geared towards them.

Bring me back,

Gas powered lifted trucks with 15" - 16"  wheels on big 35" tires 

old school lowered vehicles that performed as good as they looked

Rear wheel drive cars with v8 motors that have a manual transmission. 

A lumpy cam and a throaty exhaust.

Paint sealant should be the base layer. I would then top it with a wax like Americana. The next wash is when I would do a wet application of the H20GG

If you don't have Americana or another paste wax, HGG on top of Paint Sealant is great for a DD. I apply HGG once every 6 weeks over the top of my Paint Sealant, and Paint Sealant gets applied twice a year.

Pretty much same here. Works wonders.

When i use a paint sealant whether it be Adams or a different brand i always use HGG when I follow up with a 2b wash or a RW.  No need for any wax at any point.

My fav maint. regimen on a vehicle that has had a sealant applied is:

1. clean the wheels and tires.  rinse entire vehicle with hose

2. presoak with a WW

3. Rinseless Wash followed by a quick hose rinse off

4. Apply HGG while car is still wet to all exterior surfaces (except tires)

5. Dry

6. Enjoy

I can complete this process is roughly 30 - 45 mis depending on the soil level

waxing anything other than a show car = waste of time with the level of gloss in todays sealants.

It was a very hot/humid day yesterday, but this was after sundown and after the car was off for a couple of hours.

id bet heat and humidity is your issue as well as too much product.

Quick Sealant or Coating is the way to go and prep is crucial. 

I have a full unopened set of the 3 plus the green, orange, white pads i think Gen 3 maybe.  plus the machine super sealant and the coordinating gray pad, as well as the spray version of brillant glaze and associated red pad.

go for it!!!

this has been debated so many times on some many sites.  they are really apples and oranges.  each has it use and place.  I have both and use both.  The rupes takes more finesse and technique something you will get only from experience.  The flex will just power though anything

claying would in my mind be a last ditch effort.  What else have you tried

yes