camaro2ssblack

You guys are crazy if you think it's going to be a rotary....
 
It would be totally against Adam's MO which is to provide an idiot proof way to make your car shine with literally no chance of harming your paint.
 
Keep in mind they are not marketing towards pro detailers. I often have to remind myself of this before posting, yet sometimes I dont catch myself in time (sorry). No rotaries, no concentrated products, no aggressive decon products, etc. It's their business model and I can respect that. I graduated from OTC products to Adams and I'll be here waiting when they decide to graduate to a pro-line and fully support them again.
 
Plus rotaries are old news and just an unnecessary risk with today's pad and product combos IMO.

I've seen plenty of guys who love them and several who don't (on other forums). It kinda just depends on what your comparing it to and how your personal experiences go. For some reason I could never get my Adams microfiber to sustain its durability, absorbancy and therefore effectiveness. At first I thought it may be my high efficiency washing machine not getting them completely clean but it's not happening with other towels so I'm not sure. Again, just my personal experience with 2 different great whites bought at different times.

Gerry I agree the term is used loosely. The terminology I use defines a "pass" as simply moving the polisher from one side of the buffing area to the other. It defines a "section pass" like I did in my post above. And it defines the amount of time it takes for the polish to flash as the "buffing cycle". I really think it works well and allows the detailer to fully communicate his process with as much detail as possible rather than just saying I did one "pass". That leads to several follow up questions like how long, how many times over the area etc. might as well just describe it fully from the get go. My 2 cents...

See above but also realize that with a black daily driven car that's parked outside, you are fighting every possible battle in regards to the duration of the protection you can expect from these products. For ultimate protection using Adams, you need to go with 2 coats of MSS 12 hours apart and Americana as a topper. If you want the ultimate protection for a daily driver, you need to look into a coating.
 
Also. Don't let beading be the ultimate test of your LSP. I am far more concerned with sheeting than beading. The last thing I want is water droplets baking in the sun on my black car after a quick rain. I want to be able to take a quick spin and have all the droplets slide off until I can take proper care of the paint.
 
By the way, we have the same birthday and practically the same car...you must be pretty special too?! Lol j/k

No way there is a coating on that he didn't pay heavily for at the dealership. Even if there was it would be polished off by now.
I say follow Mooks list of steps to the T using less product, and the same technique but with slightly less pressure. Something has to give. Take a good before and after shot this time.

Cool. The polishes and pads are what really matter!

Just FYI, you can get as close to perfect with a PC as you can with any machine. Given the right products and technique, it is more than capable just not the fastest option. You do not have to sacrifice on your percentage of correction with the PC. And the Flex guys who are switching to Rupes are simply the ones who are a- buying into the hype and/or b- never truly liked the Flex and its tendency to walk. I haven't heard anyone say its much faster than the Flex, only more comfortable and versitile.

Cool. The polishes and pads are what really matter!

Just FYI, you can get as close to perfect with a PC as you can with any machine. Given the right products and technique, it is more than capable just not the fastest option. You do not have to sacrifice on your percentage of correction with the PC. And the Flex guys who are switching to Rupes are simply the ones who are a- buying into the hype and/or b- never truly liked the Flex and its tendency to walk. I haven't heard anyone say its much faster than the Flex, only more comfortable and versitile.

Just FYI, you can get as close to perfect with a PC as you can with any machine. Given the right products and technique, it is more than capable just not the fastest option. You do not have to sacrifice on your percentage of correction with the PC. And the Flex guys who are switching to Rupes are simply the ones who are a- buying into the hype and/or b- never truly liked the Flex and its tendency to walk. I haven't heard anyone say its much faster than the Flex, only more comfortable and versitile.

Just FYI, you can get as close to perfect with a PC as you can with any machine. Given the right products and technique, it is more than capable just not the fastest option. You do not have to sacrifice on your percentage of correction with the PC. And the Flex guys who are switching to Rupes are simply the ones who are a- buying into the hype and/or b- never truly liked the Flex and its tendency to walk. I haven't heard anyone say its much faster than the Flex, only more comfortable and versitile.

Just FYI, you can get as close to perfect with a PC as you can with any machine. Given the right products and technique, it is more than capable just not the fastest option. You do not have to sacrifice on your percentage of correction with the PC. And the Flex guys who are switching to Rupes are simply the ones who are a- buying into the hype and/or b- never truly liked the Flex and its tendency to walk. I haven't heard anyone say its much faster than the Flex, only more comfortable and versitile.

Rupes 21 with 7" microfiber pads and new polishes. This system should destroy the old system on all levels. Those of you who upgrade to this will finally see what a real paint correction system is capable of...
Kudos to Adams for taking this step!

Rupes 21 with 7" microfiber pads and new polishes. This system should destroy the old system on all levels. Those of you who upgrade to this will finally see what a real paint correction system is capable of...
Kudos to Adams for taking this step!

Gerry I agree the term is used loosely. The terminology I use defines a "pass" as simply moving the polisher from one side of the buffing area to the other. It defines a "section pass" like I did in my post above. And it defines the amount of time it takes for the polish to flash as the "buffing cycle". I really think it works well and allows the detailer to fully communicate his process with as much detail as possible rather than just saying I did one "pass". That leads to several follow up questions like how long, how many times over the area etc. might as well just describe it fully from the get go. My 2 cents...

Good we are on the same page. Still 7 is too much. Especially with FMP because it has a very short working time. You will get 3-5 section passes before it flashes...
Good luck and keep us posted. Be sure to clean your pad every time you add more product.

Gerry I agree the term is used loosely. The terminology I use defines a "pass" as simply moving the polisher from one side of the buffing area to the other. It defines a "section pass" like I did in my post above. And it defines the amount of time it takes for the polish to flash as the "buffing cycle". I really think it works well and allows the detailer to fully communicate his process with as much detail as possible rather than just saying I did one "pass". That leads to several follow up questions like how long, how many times over the area etc. might as well just describe it fully from the get go. My 2 cents...

"Pass" is a term used rather loosely I've found...maybe we can get a sticky going soon with what the Adam's team refers to as a "pass" so everyone has a consistent point of reference. I always thought of a "pass" of one product to be: work that product until it flashes so you can wipe off the residue.
 
Brian, where are you from? Maybe someone nearby is willing to lend you some in-person help?

And yes you need the IPA wipe down afterwords. What you are seeing is the FMP filling in the swirls and them the IPA is removing the oils to reveal the swirls are not gone.

That is an interesting statement. It seems like you tried the other products with a mindset that they were going to be bad. Almost like a self-fulfilling prophecy.
 
I've used what you're talking about and Adam's Glass Cleaner and the performance is near identical, in my opinion. 

First impression = Yuck. Not a fan but I will get used to it I suppose.