Fierce5

I rinse the engine bay first with the water on fan setting to avoid any aggressive contact between the water stream and sensors etc.
I then spray a heavy duty degreaser all over the engine bay and let it sit for few minutes then agitate.
Next, I use my Mytee steamer to steam the engine bay and make sure to get the dirt out of all the tight areas
Finally I apply SVRT and In and Out spray

Also, the made in the USA is a huge difference. Personally, I'm big on not just buying US made products but US made products manufactured by US companies. In other words, I don't consider a Toyota Camry to be American just because it's made in Tennessee! In short, American products cost more and that's one of the reason there is a slight difference in price between Adams and elsewhere.

That picture I'm 99% sure it is a vehicle that is taken through the drive thru car wash often - I see that type of oxidation all the time its just from poor maintenance, similar to the fading and stains seen on BMW piano black trim as well.
 
Paint Correcting Polish will clean it up, same as the Piano Black trim.

Amazing results. It sure does look like bare metal in the way that it oxidizes.

Wow, that is a stellar outcome- Thank you for sharing that- I'm definitely going to do exactly that!
 
Thanks again!

You will need to use the Paint Correcting Polish and a 4 inch orange pad. If it doesn't become significantly better you can use the 4 inch pad on a drill but make sure any paint surfaces are taped off. The picture below shows before (left) and after (right)
 

Sorry guys, we were working on an updated Detailing Handbook that was roughly about 70 pages in length and covers a lot of material, but unfortunately the screen captures that we pulled from the video footage just aren't up to the quality that we want to release, so Joe and Adam will be shooting new pictures, we'll revamp the layout, and hopefully have it ready for print and release this fall.

Corvette's for sure Gabriel!

Just curious if there is any update on the new detailing guide.

I rinse the engine bay first with the water on fan setting to avoid any aggressive contact between the water stream and sensors etc.
I then spray a heavy duty degreaser all over the engine bay and let it sit for few minutes then agitate.
Next, I use my Mytee steamer to steam the engine bay and make sure to get the dirt out of all the tight areas
Finally I apply SVRT and In and Out spray

I rinse the engine bay first with the water on fan setting to avoid any aggressive contact between the water stream and sensors etc.
I then spray a heavy duty degreaser all over the engine bay and let it sit for few minutes then agitate.
Next, I use my Mytee steamer to steam the engine bay and make sure to get the dirt out of all the tight areas
Finally I apply SVRT and In and Out spray

Try some Metal Polish 1 on a small area. If your applicator pulls up black residue, you're dealing with bare metal and can use Metal Polish 1 to remove oxidation/discoloration, followed by Metal Polish 2 to make it super shiny. If you get no black residue, then it's coated and should be treated like paint, in which case you'd use either Finishing Polish or Revive Polish. Either a foam or microfiber applicator will do just fine if you're working by hand.

Blowing the interior may work if you're working on your own car and you're simply doing maintenance but for a dirty car you will definitely need a decent vacuum. What I do is steam the interior first to get all the dirt out of the nooks and crannies and tight places such as power windows switches then I vacuum. I'm hoping to add a Mytee 8070 carpet extractor to my arsenal by Christmas to complete my interior equipments

These are some before and after for some engine bays I detailed in the last couple of years. I thought I would share with you guys and everyone can post their engine bays transformations here
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
Enjoy!

Thank you! And I agree with the gas door and cap
 

Nice work Gabriel! 
 
I always say if you detail a car you must clean under the hood, around the gas cap & behind the gas door. 

She's so cute, God bless her!

Looking great

Awesome looks great

You can also use Shout stain remover or similar product. It will bring back the white letters to life.

Coming from a background in professional detailing and now working for a company that is engaged entirely in surface restoration theres just a couple of things to consider:

The more aggressive the operation the more stress is placed on the pad - heavy correction work beats up pads, so your compounding phases will eat up pads rather quickly, so if you have some pretty serious defects to work on have lots of spare pads.
 
The more aggressive the operation the more residue management you have to contend with - as you are doing heavy correction work your pad is being loaded up not only with compound, but the byproduct of abrasive actions (clear coat and paint). To remove deep defects you need to remove more material, the more material you remove the more your pad loads up, the more your pad is loaded the less effective it is. Its considered best practices to replace those pads more frequently during the heavy cutting phases.
 
Keep those 2 things in mind as you decide how many pads to have on hand. At a MINIMUM no one should have fewer than 2 of every pad just out of common sense. If you drop a pad or a pad comes apart you need to have a backup at a minimum to keep going. If you are planning heavy correction work (i.e. - our first full paint correction) I recommend at least 4 pads for your cutting phases so you can at least divide the car into 1/4 chunks and work it that way.

For your finishing work you are doing much less aggressive work, and removing far less material, so 2 pads for your finishing is generally enough. Also consider though - you will do fine polishing work more often as a touchup exercise (at least you should) so if thats the case then having a couple of spares on hand isn't a bad idea either.

The one place I think you can generally get away with 1 or 2 pads is your LSP steps (glazes, waxes, sealants) - its not cutting any material so you have no residue management to deal with, the action is low stress on the pad so no issues there, and in the worst case you can jump to hand application if you lose a pad in the process (not an option in the cutting and finishing phases).
 
My 2 pennies worth - that and $6 will get you a latte at Starbucks. Cheers!
 
 
-DvK
 

So I attacked the remaining 3 tips today and got great results overall. One tip tho had small specs that would not come off, I decided to stop once I noticed what looks to be a black coating on the inner lip started to wear away...
 

 

Thanks man, good work on yours too.

One of my favorites. This is my gf's Nissan Versa which I'm sure had never been detailed.

Nice work.
 
I wish mine stayed like that for more then one day after I clean it.