gencoupe3dot8

Folks, I am looking to sell my ride, to upgrade to an as yet purchased true sports car. I am nervous about private selling, and yet am thus far unhappy about dealer trade-in offers. Even worse deals seem to come from the "cash for cars" folks, which seem about 2-3k less that the lowest dealer trade-in. Carmax seems to offer below dealer trade-in as well. (I am thinking about offering it on forums, but again nervous on the private sell side). Those having done private sell, other than making sure the money clears before handing over title... tips/suggestions on how to make this painless? My question is, when looking to get the best deal for your outgoing ride, what have you done? What has netted you the best price (if you have done more than one method). A related question. Is having pure cash (versus cash and trade) a stronger negotiation point? My last deal was kinda even, I got the dealer to come down in sales price, and he gave me below what research showed was fair market price (about 2k less for each, so it sorta even out). My current thought is to sell my ride, than go with cash in hand as my (stronger) negotiation tactic. Thoughts? Experiences appreciated in advance if you have done the cash in hand option... [m]

Just had two bottle fail, one revitalizer, one interior cleaner... contacting support now... not dropped, sitting inside, ambient temperature ~65 F Weird... I may have had some bottles that shipped before Adams got the issue sorted? (Mid 2012 for the revitalizer)

Chris, Those look like pretty standard light swirls (not RIDS), again my guess is you noticed them after claying... but were likely dealer installed.... Claying would have caused more of a scratch-like damage (if a big particle was caught) or something that would look more "cloudly" than the light swirls pictured... I would guess FMP or SHR at most would take care of those (jump right to the flex.. ) [m]

Len, Great idea. This car doesn't have two sets of tires, nor does it get driven as often.... but I will definitely keep that in mind when I rotate other wheels... The coupe has staggered wheels and they may be directional too... I'll have to check. [m]

I guess what I am talking about is being a perfectionist I am pretty sure there are places near impossible to reach from the outside (like where the spokes meet the barrel, the lips of the barrel, etc) I have the turbo stick, other manufacturers wheel brushes (bendable), etc etc, none of which will be the same as taking the wheel off. It's not so much cleaner as the ability to reach... If I do decide to take them off I'll take some pics of what I am talking about. High end detailers that I monitor take the wheels off, sometimes to refurb, but often to clean...

How many of you take the wheels off the car to clean the barrels? I know you can use wheel woolies and move the car to get at the areas blocked by the calipers, but with my Coupe wheels I am considering taking them off to get them "perfect" (even if I can see it). If you do take them off, how often? Happy detailing, [m]

If I ever go pro I'm gonna need to hook up with a wheel refurb place... I vomited a little in my mouth on the befores and lamented the state of the rims....

My analysis: 1) Dirty cars make it hard to see swirls, as do contaminates that you would clay out, so after a wash and clay, you most likely have swirls, period... yes even in a brand new car, the dealer installs them for free, then usually cover them with a glaze/filler, so they appear after you do a few washes or a strip wash (IPA/dawn/smidge of APC). 2) Revive is more of a paint cleaner than a polish. As other have mentioned, you likely need to step up to machine polishing and either FMP or SHR, starting with FMP first (least aggressive solution first). I don' think you will have much success with your current process. 3) Like you mentioned, I would hold off on the wrap until you get the paint to where you are happy with it (whatever % perfect you can live with) Pics might help us help you....

PC scrub brushes (Carpet and upholstery), for those that want to use their PC for scrubbing. (They are out there).

I wish all those that celebrate it, a meaningful Easter, when we reflect on the love of our Heavenly Father, wrapping Himself in human flesh to bring us back into the Great Dance of the Three-that-are-One, that we might enjoy life, abundantly, beyond anything we can think or imagine! That, my friends, is Good News indeed! May you all experience an intimate relationship with the One who came to bring us peace, and model how we should love one another. And may this be reflected in EVERY facet of our lives - if anything matters, EVERYTHING matters. Peace, [m]

1 hour in, about 1.5 hours home (on a good day). [m]

Congrats on the ride. I seriously want to get a copy of the CTS-V... boosted to either 700 or 1000 HP.... Right now that remains a dream, as I need to put at least two kids through college/training..

can't see it on mobile.

I suspect you have some DIS (Dealer installed swirls). I would highly suggest an IPA wipe-down after a wash.. and a baggie test for sure... even brand new cars need clayed (rail dust, etc during shipment). [m]

I concur with the above but have a question for you: Is the paint really flawless? Do an IPA wipe-down after your wash. Did any swirls appear? The reason I ask is often dealers will use glazes or other fillers to hide swirls, rather than doing a high quality detail (using polishes to make the paint "perfect") Curious to hear your results. [m]

Just got a Troybilt gas PW after giving up on my two electric units that failed. I have the foam lance and the dwell time on the car is a big difference... the foam guns just won't produce the same kind of foam, and I want as much foam as possible to get those dirt particles suspended and off the paint. Of course I still use the two bucket wash (thinking about a third bucket). For those of you that doubt (I would think very few), the below is why at least two buckets are needed.... the clear(er) one is where the suds were (grit guards were removed for clarity). I higly recommend the MTM Hydro Foam lance! And with the guards in place:

The place I bought it from does it for a business (the refurb) and has a guarantee. So far, so good. Balancing was no problem, I did get new valves when I swapped over to the EX rims.

New would-likes: 1) DA kit for drill (more portable than PC, maybe larger throw) 2) LSP with longevity (measured in years, or at least quarters) 3) SMAT Polishes, for rotary/Forced rotation 4) Dressing that will stick (and last) on harder plastics (SVRT doesn't quite work for this application) 5) Wool pad, MF pad

Got the refurbed wheels... so far.. so good... OEM and looking brand new... less than half what the dealer wanted... pics when I get the thing detailed... or at least a wash and wax...

I'm so not into manipulation of any type, whether no info (ala Apple) or teasers (like Adams). I simply want information I can make an informed decision on, so I know where I need where to allocate my hard earned cash. This style of marketing is more apt to turn me off... My 2 cents... [m]

While I don't have a black car I haven't experienced the same thing you are describing, but I air dry my car (Master blaster). I also use a pressure washer/foam lance and use my two buckets, dipping into the rinse as above, and flip my pad over often. I have the pads and the mitt, and I haven't seen pad caused swirls yet.... Your mileage may (and likely does) vary. -Mike

Pics would help. Are you claying? Two bucket, with steps as follows?: 1) Wash pad in soap bucket 2) Onto car, flipping as needed, not more than one panel at a time 3) Off car into rinse 4) wring out in rinse bucket 5) back into soap bucket 6) repeat... Drying technique? Towels used? If towels can you use leaf blower to see if ts washing or drying technique? Let us know... -Mike

Anyone buy refurbed rims.... I have been looking for OEM rims for less... but have seen bad reviews on some of the more popular refurb OEM places... Allfactorywheels.com (some negative feedback) finishlinewheels.com also some negative reviews Any ideas? The dealer price is off the charts. The car in question is a 2010 CRV LX, I want to move to EX rims. Thanks in advance!

Except for DIS (Dealer installed swirls).

I would seriously look at moving to this if Adam's carries it. Regards, Mike