ArablueRS3

LMAO! The decks are still the same! 

Thanks for the additional info.  I plan on having the floor coated in my new shop and that is something that I'll also need to pay attention to.   It reminds me of when we had some passageways repainted, if you had a little moisture on your boondockers, you'd up end up your backside.  

Bare concrete floor in my garage. The rubber feet on the step stool keep it from sliding.  
Try putting a pad of silicone underneath.  Like a silicone pot holder from a kitchen store.  They're made like little suction cups, and you can cut one or two to fit all four feet of the stool.  Probably any kind of silicone pad would work. 

I covered my sides with a pool noodle the very first thing to be on the safe side.
Thinking of putting duck tape on the feet too so it won't slide.

The pro of using Rinseless in the wash solution, it neutralizes the water. The con, it also kills the suds, but the lubricity of Rinseless is high.

I'll have that writeup up later this week possibly - also in talks with the fine folks at MTM about producing this specific configuration for us in a 'assemble yourself' kit available thru Adam's. Stay tuned.

You're using too little product. 2oz is enough to generate good lather with a foam CANNON b/c the PSI and flow rate, plus the manner in which it creates the suds requires far less. When using a foam GUN on a hose you should be typically using about 4oz to get a decent foam, but keep in mind this is still not going to create a clinging lather like a cannon does.
 
For reference heres a little side by side screen cap from a vid I made with a different product.
 
On top - 2oz of soap in a cannon  vs. on bottom - 4oz of soap in a foam gun. Both shots are taken at the moment the vehicle had been completely sprayed.
The gun will produce foam, but it doesn't cling nearly as well. Still better than nothing, but set expectations reasonably.
 

I forgot to add, I use setting C on gilmour foam gun.

FWIW I also don't always fill up the container, I find about 3/4 is plenty to do a pre soak and then rinse and foam again and go right into 2 bucket wash.
 
The foam cannons need less soap (2 oz or so) than the foam guns do to make good suds.

I use 4oz of shampoo in Gilmour foam gun creates lots of foam and lubricity.

I'd go with about 3 oz of shampoo and 1 oz of Rinseless to neutralize the hard water.
 
Use warm water, and pour the soap in last. I'd also put it on D or E as well.
 
I have a Griots foaming gun for the hose and although it's not adjustable I get a damn respectable amount of suds for only using about 2 oz

I use the same foam gun I do t have a problem with the sids it leave:(i keep it in option C) because I still give it the good Ol 2 buck t wash system and then I spray it again before I rinse injust use it to make the pads wash a bit easier to hit t over again

Copy that Gold Leader!

I wish my cheap college student budget included detailing supplies!

When I first started researching and learning about the various products and proper methods for detailing, it was a bit overwhelming. Since it took five months from ordering the truck to taking delivery, I had lots of time to figure out what the different products are for and what the proper methods are, from washing to fixing paint issues to adding shine and protection.

Here are some tips and tricks that I think are useful for the beginning detailer. Some are basic and others are ones you may think are a bit extreme. Everyone has their own methods and ideas. I am not an expert so please provide constructive comments or opinions. If, for example, you have always detailed with rings on all ten fingers like Mr. T and have never had an issue, then keep at it. These are not do-or-die, my-way-or-the-highway items and I am not looking to start any arguments.

I realize there is an entire section on this forum for Tips & Tricks, my intent is to have a condensed list of some basic ones for the beginner who may not have the time to go through all the topics and replies.

I plan to edit this post in the future by adding or revising items as needed. If you have any tips or tricks that you think would be helpful to the beginner, post them and I will update this list.

If you are just getting started with detailing, you don’t really need all the equipment (pressure washer, DI filters, machine polisher) to get good results. Start with the proper washing equipment and methods for a two-bucket wash, use some Revive Hand Polish, and finish with Buttery Wax. Obviously any serious paint damage will require a machine but just removing most of the swirls and oxidation by hand and then adding some wax for shine and protection will make a big difference in how your vehicle looks. Wear clean clothes and change your shirt if it gets dirty or wet during washing. You don’t want any dirt from your clothing falling into the polish or wax as it could cause damage to the paint. Do not wear rings, watches or other jewelry. Work in a clean area if possible. If you have to work outside, avoid windy days so dirt or dust does not get blown onto the paint while you are working. Cleaning the vehicle is the most important step. Any dirt hiding out could get picked-up during polishing or waxing and create damage. Drying with just a towel can take a long time trying to get under all the trim and you often get sneaky drips during the Paint Sealant and the water around the lug nuts jumps out when you spray the Quick Sealant. A blower like the MetroVac Sidekick is very helpful. If you use a compressor make sure it is oil-less, you don’t want to be spraying a mist of oil onto the paint prior to sealing it. If you are going to Clay Bar, you don’t need to dry unless your water is hard and leaves spots, just spray the whole vehicle with Detail Spray when it is still wet. First apply SVRT to all the trim and plastic to keep the polishes, sealants and waxes from soaking in, which reduces the time spent cleaning product off these areas. A small foam painting brush works well for applying SVRT to narrow trim like around the windows. I would wash again after any large paint correcting job to remove any abrasives from the nooks and crannies. The abrasives could get picked-up by the applicator during the sealant, glaze or wax and cause damage. Reapply SVRT to trim as needed. Label any applicators for use on a specific product (such as sealant, glaze and wax) and then use that applicator for that product each time, i.e. don't wax with an applicator that you used for sealant on the last detail. [credit Ricky Bobby] Do the paint sealant on everything painted including flares and bumpers. I only did the Glaze on the shiny body paint. Do the headlights and taillights with the same steps as the paint. Have extra towels and applicators for each step. If you drop it, DO NOT USE IT AGAIN even if it looks clean. Same goes for the clay bars. Figure on using two Double Soft Towels for each step but have a few extra. The Paint Sealant and Glaze were easy to remove but the Americana Wax took some more work. Don’t get too far ahead applying the wax before going back to remove the haze. The Glaze was slow to dry, I applied to the whole truck before removing. The Paint Sealant is very hard to clean out of applicators. I used a lot of All Purpose Cleaner and Microfiber Revitalizer but next time I will just toss the applicators used on the Paint Sealant. If you are working in a garage with a smooth concrete floor, use a piece of cardboard that has been cut to fit around the front and sides of the tire to keep the floor from getting too slippery from spraying products on the wheels and tires. Follow the rule of "LEAST AGRESSIVE FIRST" for all processes.  Don't just use all the products for the sake of using them.  If washing weekly, you probably don't need to use DWC every time.  If your wheels and tires are just dusty, try just using Shampoo.  If that is not enough, try some GWC, then only use the most aggressive DWC when really needed.  Same goes for polishing.  Try the least aggressive product first on a test section and evaluate the results.  If Revive is not enough, try PFP.  If that is not enough then go to PCP.  And for the interior, if your seats are not visibly dirty, you don't need to use the cleaner first, just use some Leather Conditioner on a towel for a damp wipe-down.  The same goes for plastics, only use a cleaner if really needed, a wipe with TID is usually enough for routine maintenance.  
Edit on 9/27/14 to add #15, which was inspired by Scott (Sizzle Chest).

Excited to announce, our new distribution center is fully in place, team is trained, accurate, and by the way, AWESOME!   As of Thursday, July 17, 2014, all orders received by 3:30PM, PST, have been going out the SAME DAY!  
 
Many of you were frustrated with slow shipping times as we setup a new warehouse, and I again apologize.   Now that we have the West Coast DC dialed in, we will focus on getting the East Coast setup.
 
If you are indeed detailing in the east, and want your goods for the weekend, please order over the weekend or on Monday, so we can get your goods into your hands by Friday or Saturday.
 
We get many requests from customers for tracking information, and just an FYI:  If you opt out of getting emails from us, tracking info is not sent.  Also, SPAM and Junk folders LOVE automated emails, check yours if you didn't get tracking.   (As always, during sales, new product announcements, and other promotions, we may need a few extra days to get caught up.)   Thanks for your patience with our awesome, and not so HUGE company, currently 15 employees strong.....   Sincerely,   Adam

And more team kicking butt photos.......and forgot to mention Fred, our team leader in Nevada, last photo!  (drives a '68 Chevelle SS)

Greg, look out for the FedEx truck this Wednesday!  https://www.fedex.com/fedextrack/html/oldindex.html?tracknumbers=605374430057

598 orders went out today, nearly our entire team is here shipping, Ash, Matt, Bianca, Michael, and Brian..... Look out friends, we should have all orders out the door within 24hours from this minute!!
 
Our team rocks, and thanks to each of you for converging on Nevada over the weekend, and through Wednesday!

I emailed yesterday and got the usual... our sale was great and we're really behind spiel... you should see an email soon...

Haha I'm in the same boat (no pun intended)! I almost made a switch to a different brand because of weird things that were happening. I'm glad I read this post and now it makes sense. Just placed another order.

Wow! Even though I am in Canada and I don't think this effects me you guys ROCK. Too often company's leave you in the dark. I admire the truth in your post and appreciate letting us know what is going on. 
 
A+++++ WOULD BUY AGAIN

You need to put a center in TN. That way when I retire from the Navy next year I will have a place I can apply to work at after I move back home.