egott_91

The 7" pads on a Rupes 21 will give you more correcting power than a PC with any pads. If you need heavy correcting, go with the MF pads. The Rupes 21 and MF pads make for some quick correction work.

Sounds like an awesome opportunity. I would love to work in the accounting department for Adam's, if there is ever an opening.

If you know the size, try a local hardware store? Who knows. Or just pay the $8 and have OE parts

My mom tells me the borderless blue towels are perfect for baby blankets...

If you're polishing it anyway, just use a dry microfiber to wipe the dust away. Any minimal damage that is introduced will be easily corrected through the polishing process. I see no point in using waterless or rinseless as it would just be a waste of product, in my opinion. Now, the panels you HAVE corrected, I would use rinseless/waterless.

Yes, glaze will usually yield better results on darker paints. It also makes the metallic in paint pop more. Glaze+patriot really brought out the metallic on my Sebring silver metallic SS. A lot of the lighter colors won't show as much depth as darker colors, which makes the result seem unsatisfying. It's just the nature of different colors. Black will always yield better looking results, but just know that 2 minutes later you'll be able to tell its dirty already. Ha.

I voted Patriot. I love that stuff! However, it only gets used on the garage queens/non-daily drivers. I haven't gotten the chance to try the H2O G&G yet. Daily drivers usually get QS or LPS followed by Americana once or twice a year.

Wait a minute! I thought you said you wanted something faster?! Lol! Kidding! I'm sure you'll be glad to switch from black to red.

NICE! Only thing I would do is remove the obscenely large "Ram 3500" emblems. Not sure why Dodge decided that an emblem that took up 1/3 of the top of the door was appealing. Haha.

Use it as windshield washer fluid in your vehicles. Haha.

That'd be awesome, but seems a little pricey.

The 4" backing plate and pads will help your cause.

Looking good! Time to get her lower to the ground though!

Welcome from northern Indiana!

I've done it on the truck during the winter after spraying it off. I prefer the multiple towel method.

For the truck, Adams wash pads (11x11 for top, 9x9 for bottom). For the SS, Adams old merino wool mitt, or Microfiber Madness Incredimitt, for the top and Adams 9x9 for the bottom.

Just for future reference to anyone that uses QS and doesn't want the issue of overspray, I always spray QS on a foam pad then apply. I do not like the spray panel then spread with applicator method. Helps to avoid ANY issues of overspray.

Car looks good! Haven't tried the new juice yet, but I do have some waiting to be used. The blue were a limited run for April Autism Awareness, I believe.

Hahaha! That's awesome! And congratulations on the new addition to the family!

So, you're getting it restored completely? New paint job and all? If that's the case, where's the harm in trying a one step or two step with a PC or cyclo? Painters normally use rotary buffers with a wool pad, which is A LOT more aggressive than the polish and pad combo Adams offers. That might be the reason your painter didn't want to do it.

The PC is capable of achieving the same results, it just takes much longer and puts more stress on your hands and arms. Here are a couple before and afters of a CTS-V I polished using the PC with an orange foam pad and Meg's M105. This was after 4 passes with that combo:

If you can swing it, definitely go with the Cyclo over the PC. I started out with the PC, upgraded to a Rupes 21, then added a Cyclo. I grab the Rupes for large panels that need heavy correction, the Cyclo for smaller areas and not as heavy correction, and the PC for glaze/sealant. I NEVER touch the PC for correction anymore. The toll it takes on your hands and arms from vibration is terrible, plus it takes longer to correct than the Cyclo. However, I have not tried the PC with the MF pads and new polishes, but I have no need or desire to with the other machines. The Cyclo is amazingly balanced. I was able to polish the underside of my spoiler when I had it removed guiding the machine with one hand on speed 6 while holding the spoiler from moving with the other. There would have been no way I could've done that with the vibration of the PC.

For a daily driver, go with a sealant then wax. If you don't have a sealant, use just the wax.

Any reason why you're not doing another pass with PCP to replace some of the 5 passes of PFP? PCP will remove the imperfections much quicker than PFP. Just my suggestion on that. As far as the remaining swirls, step down to foam pads. MF for cut, foam for finishing.

Does anyone have an unlimited subscription to either CarFax or AutoCheck and would be willing to run a VIN for me?