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I like the full sun detail. ON A BLACK CAR! I cant help be get so many streaks after I wash. I have no idea why. It looks great until the sun hits it then you see tons of streaks.

 

How about just a tips and tricks video? "137 tips and tricks from the Adams team"

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I like the full sun detail. ON A BLACK CAR! I cant help be get so many streaks after I wash. I have no idea why. It looks great until the sun hits it then you see tons of streaks.

 

How about just a tips and tricks video? "137 tips and tricks from the Adams team"

Do you use DS when drying?

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Engine Compartment on mid 2000 vehicles with very little plastic covers.

Water spot removal with PC

 

Chrome cleaning (I.E. light swirl removal)

 

Dull plastic restoration with APC, VRT & I&O Spray

 

Microfiber product care & cleaning

 

 

 

I also really love tricks.... like PB to get wax off plastic.

 

Water spot removal it pretty much the exact same as swirl removal, you don't polish any different.

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yeah. I cant help but get streaks. Ive had the problem forever. Even if I wash inside our hanger at work. Thats even with reverse osmosis water.

 

I have three questions.

 

1. Who's wax is on your car?

2. Who's soap are you using to wash your car.

3. Are you allowing the soap to dry on your car BEFORE you do a complete rinse?

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I have three questions.

 

1. Who's wax is on your car?

2. Who's soap are you using to wash your car.

3. Are you allowing the soap to dry on your car BEFORE you do a complete rinse?

 

Is leaving Adam's soap suds on a car bad if they dry? In Adam's video on the Ferrari he washed the car in the hot sun and the soap all but completely dried with no problems. I do the same only never in the sun and never had streaks or spots.:confused:

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If your paint is protected with wax and the soap that you are using is not eating through the wax (like Dawn would), then you shouldn't see any streaking. However, I would never allow the soap to dry on my car in direct sunlight or shade. If I had to, I would wash one fender at a time and then rinse it off.

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Thanks Dr. Junk. I guess a foam gun isn't the way to go either as by the time you get to the last section of the car you are going to have some drying of the soap film. I not only am terrified of micro-scratches and swirls, but water spotting is no picnic in the park either. I thought Adam stated once that his soap was better to leave on a car than plain rinse water. Clarification? :help:Thanks again.

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Thanks Dr. Junk. I guess a foam gun isn't the way to go either as by the time you get to the last section of the car you are going to have some drying of the soap film. I not only am terrified of micro-scratches and swirls, but water spotting is no picnic in the park either. I thought Adam stated once that his soap was better to leave on a car than plain rinse water. Clarification? :help:Thanks again.

 

I would agree that soap IS better to leave on the car than plain water too. However, once the car is clean, the water doesn't have dirt to encapsulate so the water spots are safer to deal with and easier to remove. As for the foam gun, you need to be washing the car at the crack of dawn when the temperatures are at their coolest, not when it is blazing hot outside. This will assist in keeping the soap from drying. Also, you can foam sections of the car at a time. You don't have to do the entire car all at once. Shade is also your friend. I wouldn't wash my car without foam gun.

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Man, I don't do sprints or push-ups at the crack of dawn, so I sure don't wash my car then either. There's only one inside physical activity I can find energy to do at any time of the day or night and it don't involve a car.:lol:

 

I usually only wash my car at dusk or on cloudy days of which we have a lot of in Michigan and never in direct sunlight. I still occasionally get water spots. I wish we had some videos or lecture series even from Dylan on the cause and prevention of these nasty PIA things. I have a cheap foam gun that looks more like a tiny tot toy than a real foam gun which holds about three ounces of product. Actually works OK enough for me and still covers the car with suds. So, in theory the process would be:

 

1. Wash and rinse tires and wheels and wheel wells with seperate bucket and soft brush.

2. Pressure rinse the entire car of loose dirt and debris from top to bottom.

3. Foam the entire car with Adam's wash using a foam gun

4. Wash with Adam's wash and single or double bucket with grit guard from top to bottom, rinsing each section in this order....roof and windows, hood, trunk, top half of each fender and door then lower half and finally front and rear bumpers and a final pool rinse of the car, followed by the Blaster for the nooks and crannies and the Great White waffle towel.

 

:confused:If there is only a slight breeze you are going to get some drying of the rinsed areas. Do you re-wet those sections listed above that are starting to dry, as you finish the rest of the car or do you not worry about it?

 

Sorry to get so technical, but this Detailing stuff really is a science as well as an obsession.:D

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First off, there is no such thing as a single bucket wash unless you are looking to create swirls. Second, I do not experience any spotting problem and the only thing that I can attribite that to is the wax that I have on my car (MSW/Americana). I don't use treated water in any way and thus, it definitely ain't because of my water that I don't experience any spots. It could be that I keep the entire car wet until I actually go to dry it. It could also be my pooling rinse drying technique. It could be that I never wash in direct sunlight. All of these things contribute to me not experiencing a water spot issue. If you were to take on all of the same practices that I partake off, I think that you will no longer experience water spot issues either.

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I use the single wash bucket method and have had 0 swirl problems. I do however meticulously spray off the wash pad with the hose after each section before putting it back in the wash bucket and then rub it on the grit guard and use the opposite side of the wash pad that I used on the previous section. I also use the pool rinse method as a final rinse and then very lightly mist the entire car with DS. Forgive me Doc if I sounded like a total novice. I am a meticulous one anyway.:confused: The two bucket method is a little overkill when taking the above precautions, but I could be convinced otherwise. I mean isn't what I do the same principal only slightly better? After all, by rinsing the mitt before putting it back in the bucket, I'm not putting dirt and contaminates back into the soap water which is exactly what you are doing in the two bucket method, even if it is cleaning the pad off in the first bucket.

 

Sandra....if you have hard water, go the deionized water route. It's the only way to fly. Not sure if they still make them but Mr. Clean had one a few years ago for cars. It was around 20 bucks and did an amazing job. I had a new Corvette at that time and lived in the country with hard well water. It did the trick and I had absolutely no spotting. It also had a wash function, so you could use Adam's wash in the thing if you wanted to.

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JunkieBabes-do you have well water or city water?

 

I have had my share of water spots....with very hard well water. However, I see also where I can improve on technique. I dont have much shade-have MSW and Americana though on the car.

 

I think I have city water. My house is 120 years old so I'm not 100% sure. :willy:

 

I use the single wash bucket method and have had 0 swirl problems. I do however meticulously spray off the wash pad with the hose after each section before putting it back in the wash bucket and then rub it on the grit guard and use the opposite side of the wash pad that I used on the previous section.

 

I would love to inspect your paint. yesnod.gif

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Window tips:

 

Wash the inside of the window before you wash the paint. Roll it down just a bit to clean the edges, then roll it back up. hit the exterior edges of the window first, flip your towel over, and hit the meat part of the window.

 

By cleaning the inside first, you don't have to worry about water streaks that would have occurred should you wash the inside post paint.

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Window tips:

 

Wash the inside of the window before you wash the paint. Roll it down just a bit to clean the edges, then roll it back up. hit the exterior edges of the window first, flip your towel over, and hit the meat part of the window.

 

By cleaning the inside first, you don't have to worry about water streaks that would have occurred should you wash the inside post paint.

 

Excellent tip Chris!

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