Junkman's F.A.Q's! (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Junkman2008]

Hey boys and girls, I am starting this thread to address all of the common questions that I get on what seems like a daily basis. This thread will contain a ton of information, and this first post will continue to grow as I continually add videos and write-up on things that I often get asked. Thus, you want to subscribe to it as the addition of information will grow as quick as I can knock out the videos and write-ups.

 

That's the theme of this thread so here we go!

 

 

Junkman's Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - The Video!

 

The title says it all. This is how I wash my car when I don't have time to wash it properly.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO3gu65UYTA&feature=channel_video_title]Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Perfect "Moving" the PC-7424XP and the Flex 3401VRG at the Proper Tempo

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series is a first, and unlike anything that you will see anywhere else on the web. This video series concentrates on my technique of working both polishers, with the sole concentration being on how fast I move them across the paint. Again, this is strictly my technique as I do it when using any of these polishers to work on paint. Other folks may do it differently and that is fine but this is the way I do it.

 

So if you are using the PC and my technique which consist of:

 

• 9-14lbs of pressure including the weight of the polisher
  
• Speed setting of 5
  
• 3 pea-sized drops of polish. With the Flex, I use a thin bead of polish that circles the pad. The Flex requires more polish than the PC.
  

 

 

These videos will address how fast you should move the polisher. The way that I figured out how to get this across will probably crack you up but hey, we will all be on the same page if you are using my technique. Once you get through the videos, you will probably want to download this file so that you can get your practice on.

 

Here are the videos!

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taR6JP2yNfI&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTmG-CAj7VE&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

How to Buff on the Side of Your Vehicle

 

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series addresses that question I often get about buffing on the side of the car. I detail this and reinforce my technique for those who are mixing it up with other techniques. I will continue to update this thread with more information and videos as the questions come in.

 

Here are the videos!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yHQME7dUDU&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rnTEIKcbrQ&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32v_4I-zDyY&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK44yWBdERc&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 4 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feAKE9Up2t0&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 5 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

That's all for now.

 

The Junkman

[Junkman2008]

Okay, now for the million dollar question. Exactly what makes the paint shine?

[ChallengerChick]

Glaze?

[Junkman2008]

Glaze?

 

Nope.

 

That is exactly why I was asking all these questions. I wanted to see where your mindset was when it comes to the whole detailing routine.

 

A polish is what makes EVERYTHING shine. You polish glass, jewelry, leather and paint. The process of polishing is what makes your paint shine. Polish comes in different "grits". You start with an abrasive grit in order to remove the major damage from your paint. You then step down to a less abrasive polish in order to remove the damage that the more abrasive polish has left behind. You continue this step down process and finish with a very light polish. When you finish with that very light polish, your paint should be as shiny as it can be. If you look at ANY of my videos, you will see that I never show any results after waxing because the paint is as shiny as it possibly can be. Look at these three pictures and notice how shiny the paint is. This is what polishing does to your paint.

 

Here's a section of a bumper that has not been polished:

 

 

 

Here's the same section that has been polished with SHR and FMP:

 

 

 

Again, this section has not been polished. Notice the damage.

 

 

 

Here's what it looked like after I wet sanded it, and then polished it with SHR and FMP:

 

 

 

You can see the reflection of my Corvette sitting in the garage. You can also see me holding a bottle of MSS, as I'm going to apply it next. All that shine is courtesy of nothing but POLISHING.

 

A glaze is a filler. Glazes are used to fill in paint damage if you don't feel like actually fixing it. That is what a glaze does and why it is used.

 

A wax is a protectant. Wax is used to protect the shine you get from polishing. That's what wax does, protect. Now different types of wax can add different characteristics to the shine you have, but they don't make the paint "shinier". Carnuba's for example can add depth to your shine but it won't make your paint "shinier". The illusion of depth may appear to be more shiny but don't get it confused, it's depth not "more shiny".

 

The only reason I use wax is to protect the shine I get from polishing. Polishing is where all my work goes. I would rather spend days polishing the paint to perfection instead of trying to rely on the wax to give some illusion of shine. That's how I roll.

 

Now with all that in mind, tell me what you think about the routine you posted and what do you think the next step would be, if any? I'm very curious to see your reply.

[ChallengerChick]

I really appreciate your time and explanation. I hope I get this right!

 

So for both cars:

- I will assess the paint to see how aggressive I need to be and pick the polish accordingly. The 71 needs more paint correction so I'll probably start with the green. The 2011 has very few swirls so I'll correct the paint in the areas needed with the orange.

- Next will be the fine machine polish (white) for both cars - least abrasive grit

- Next is the sealant - To seal my work and protect the paint longer from the elements.

- Last is the Wax - To create depth but more importantly to protect the shine.

 

I don't need the glaze.

[Junkman2008]

I really appreciate your time and explanation. I hope I get this right!

 

So for both cars:

- I will assess the paint to see how aggressive I need to be and pick the polish accordingly. The 71 needs more paint correction so I'll probably start with the green. The 2011 has very few swirls so I'll correct the paint in the areas needed with the orange.

- Next will be the fine machine polish (white) for both cars - least abrasive grit

- Next is the sealant - To seal my work and protect the paint longer from the elements.

- Last is the Wax - To create depth but more importantly to protect the shine.

 

I don't need the glaze.

 

BY GEORGE, YOU GOT IT!

 

And here's the thing. You answered your own question! Now I know for a fact that you now understand what you are doing and why. That is the most important part of this whole paint correction thing. Understanding why you do what you do. With that knowledge, you can pick up anyone's product line and know what to look for and what to do. You have obtained a understanding of the process and not just memorized a bunch of steps.

 

So would you like to see if you can snatch the pebble from my hand young grasshopper?

[ChallengerChick]

With all due respect - I think everyone knows that you ARE THE MASTER at detailing. I got hooked on your videos a while back and look forward to your continued teachings!

[Junkman2008]

Thanks for the kind words.

[bignick]

Hey junkman,

 

I remember seeing a video a while back about setting up the pc 7424 out of the box. I cant find it anymore. Anyway heres my questions...

 

I got the pc 7424. It came with 2 washers. One about the size of a dime and one about the size of quarter. It also came with the 5" counter weight and the 6". I ordered the adams pad kit with the new pads and backing plate. Which weight and combo of washers do i need to use? Tia

[Junkman2008]

Hey junkman,

 

I remember seeing a video a while back about setting up the pc 7424 out of the box. I cant find it anymore. Anyway heres my questions...

 

I got the pc 7424. It came with 2 washers. One about the size of a dime and one about the size of quarter. It also came with the 5" counter weight and the 6". I ordered the adams pad kit with the new pads and backing plate. Which weight and combo of washers do i need to use? Tia

 

Take a picture of what you have and post it. Why didn't you buy the PC from Adam's? It would have came setup and ready to go.

[bignick]

I didnt know anything about adams when my pc was purchased. Ill get some pics.

[ChallengerChick]

Quick question - What device do you use to dust off your car in between washings so as not to scratch the paint?

[LDM]

Quick question - What device do you use to dust off your car in between washings so as not to scratch the paint?

 

Check this out: http://www.adamsforums.com/forums/junkmans-corner/4923.htm

[Junkman2008]

Quick question - What device do you use to dust off your car in between washings so as not to scratch the paint?

 

Now I use this. If it does not remove the dust to my satisfaction, it's time to wash the car.

[dlee116]

Hey Junkman, first time poster here, so not sure if this has been posted before.

 

I've been watching some of your videos and am going to be getting my first car soon. I was wondering how often you would recommend washing, claying, polishing, and waxing.

 

Edit: I live in New Jersey, will probably keep it outside until I can clear space in the garage, and will be my everyday car. (h/t C6Bill)

 

P.S. To add a bit of context to your suggestion, I'm not looking for absolute perfection, just to keep the car looking fresh.

 

Thanks!

[Bill-V8V]

Hey Junkman, first time poster here, so not sure if this has been posted before.

 

I've been watching some of your videos and am going to be getting my first car soon. I was wondering how often you would recommend washing, claying, polishing, and waxing.

 

P.S. To add a bit of context to your suggestion, I'm not looking for absolute perfection, just to keep the car looking fresh.

 

Thanks!

 

To give him a fighting chance you might want to give him a few details like where you live, where the vehicle would be kept and what you will be using the vehicle for

[Junkman2008]

Hey Junkman, first time poster here, so not sure if this has been posted before.

 

I've been watching some of your videos and am going to be getting my first car soon. I was wondering how often you would recommend washing, claying, polishing, and waxing.

 

Edit: I live in New Jersey, will probably keep it outside until I can clear space in the garage, and will be my everyday car. (h/t C6Bill)

 

P.S. To add a bit of context to your suggestion, I'm not looking for absolute perfection, just to keep the car looking fresh.

 

Thanks!

 

First of all, welcome to the forum.

 

As for your question, the ideal answer is once. In reality, the answer totally depends on what you do to the paint when you are physically touching it. The paint can only be damaged when it is touched. Thus, if you never touch it, it will only need to be fixed once. Since never touching it is not realistic, the answer totally depends on how you touch it. That's the part of the equation that people totally miss. They are worried about how often they can fix their paint when my mindset is how can I touch the paint without doing anything to damage it. That's two, totally different ways to look at it.

 

Here's something else to consider. If you are starting with some really jacked up paint, using the equipment and techniques that I show in my videos is going to take a bit of work. It will not be fast by any means but it will be the safest, most non-destructive way to fix your paint. There are much faster ways to do it (rotary polisher for example), but NONE of those ways are safe for a novice. If your paint is not that bad to start with, then you will not have that much work to do. Where you stop totally depends on your level of acceptance. Some folks will accept some level of damage remaining in their paint and other will want their paint to be perfect.

 

Now here's the key to everything that you will learn. You should never have to completely repair your paint more than ONCE in the life of the car. How is that you ask? Because once you completely repair the paint, you NEVER do the things that destroyed the paint in the first place again! That's the whole secret to paint repair! Fix it once and PROPERLY maintain it from that point forward. Now in reality, you will pick up a stray scratch here and there but these will be a cake walk to remove. They will be nothing compared to what you will have to remove to start with.

 

You don't give a man with poor money management skills a million dollars and expect him to have anything left shortly afterward. That's why you teach him how to manage money first, THEN give him the money. That's similar to what you should learn to do. Learn how to properly care for your paint first, THEN fix it. I show the proper methods of paint care in my washing and dust removal videos. Everything you see me do is critical to that process. If you follow those procedures, you will not only be ready to fix your paint, you will also have the knowledge that it takes to keep that fixed paint next to flawless.

 

Welcome to the red pill. You are about to find out how deep the rabbit hole goes.

 

[dlee116]

First of all, welcome to the forum.

 

As for your question, the ideal answer is once. In reality, the answer totally depends on what you do to the paint when you are physically touching it. The paint can only be damaged when it is touched. Thus, if you never touch it, it will only need to be fixed once. Since never touching it is not realistic, the answer totally depends on how you touch it. That's the part of the equation that people totally miss. They are worried about how often they can fix their paint when my mindset is how can I touch the paint without doing anything to damage it. That's two, totally different ways to look at it.

 

Here's something else to consider. If you are starting with some really jacked up paint, using the equipment and techniques that I show in my videos is going to take a bit of work. It will not be fast by any means but it will be the safest, most non-destructive way to fix your paint. There are much faster ways to do it (rotary polisher for example), but NONE of those ways are safe for a novice. If your paint is not that bad to start with, then you will not have that much work to do. Where you stop totally depends on your level of acceptance. Some folks will accept some level of damage remaining in their paint and other will want their paint to be perfect.

 

Now here's the key to everything that you will learn. You should never have to completely repair your paint more than ONCE in the life of the car. How is that you ask? Because once you completely repair the paint, you NEVER do the things that destroyed the paint in the first place again! That's the whole secret to paint repair! Fix it once and PROPERLY maintain it from that point forward. Now in reality, you will pick up a stray scratch here and there but these will be a cake walk to remove. They will be nothing compared to what you will have to remove to start with.

 

You don't give a man with poor money management skills a million dollars and expect him to have anything left shortly afterward. That's why you teach him how to manage money first, THEN give him the money. That's similar to what you should learn to do. Learn how to properly care for your paint first, THEN fix it. I show the proper methods of paint care in my washing and dust removal videos. Everything you see me do is critical to that process. If you follow those procedures, you will not only be ready to fix your paint, you will also have the knowledge that it takes to keep that fixed paint next to flawless.

 

Welcome to the red pill. You are about to find out how deep the rabbit hole goes.

 

 

Thanks for all the help!

[dagartdan]

First of all, welcome to the forum.

 

As for your question, the ideal answer is once. In reality, the answer totally depends on what you do to the paint when you are physically touching it. The paint can only be damaged when it is touched. Thus, if you never touch it, it will only need to be fixed once. Since never touching it is not realistic, the answer totally depends on how you touch it. That's the part of the equation that people totally miss. They are worried about how often they can fix their paint when my mindset is how can I touch the paint without doing anything to damage it. That's two, totally different ways to look at it.

 

Here's something else to consider. If you are starting with some really jacked up paint, using the equipment and techniques that I show in my videos is going to take a bit of work. It will not be fast by any means but it will be the safest, most non-destructive way to fix your paint. There are much faster ways to do it (rotary polisher for example), but NONE of those ways are safe for a novice. If your paint is not that bad to start with, then you will not have that much work to do. Where you stop totally depends on your level of acceptance. Some folks will accept some level of damage remaining in their paint and other will want their paint to be perfect.

 

Now here's the key to everything that you will learn. You should never have to completely repair your paint more than ONCE in the life of the car. How is that you ask? Because once you completely repair the paint, you NEVER do the things that destroyed the paint in the first place again! That's the whole secret to paint repair! Fix it once and PROPERLY maintain it from that point forward. Now in reality, you will pick up a stray scratch here and there but these will be a cake walk to remove. They will be nothing compared to what you will have to remove to start with.

 

You don't give a man with poor money management skills a million dollars and expect him to have anything left shortly afterward. That's why you teach him how to manage money first, THEN give him the money. That's similar to what you should learn to do. Learn how to properly care for your paint first, THEN fix it. I show the proper methods of paint care in my washing and dust removal videos. Everything you see me do is critical to that process. If you follow those procedures, you will not only be ready to fix your paint, you will also have the knowledge that it takes to keep that fixed paint next to flawless.

 

Welcome to the red pill. You are about to find out how deep the rabbit hole goes.

 

 

 

Hello junkman! I'm new here and think your videos are the outstanding! Thanks for sharing with us. I have a question and thought I'd throw it your way. I picked up a pc and I'm using an orange pads plus m105 to remove the swirls and scratches on my corvette. I followed your directions, and got about 95 % of the scratches and swirls out of the clear but still have a few scratches showing in the clear. Should I keep working on them or should I use a different or more aggressive approach? Should I use a yellow pad with m105 and keep working the area or attempt a wet sand approach? Do you have any videos on wet sanding and deeper scratch removal? Thanks in advance...

[Junkman2008]

Hello junkman! I'm new here and think your videos are the outstanding! Thanks for sharing with us. I have a question and thought I'd throw it your way. I picked up a pc and I'm using an orange pads plus m105 to remove the swirls and scratches on my corvette. I followed your directions, and got about 95 % of the scratches and swirls out of the clear but still have a few scratches showing in the clear. Should I keep working on them or should I use a different or more aggressive approach? Should I use a yellow pad with m105 and keep working the area or attempt a wet sand approach? Do you have any videos on wet sanding and deeper scratch removal? Thanks in advance...

 

Well first off, I didn't use M105 in any of my videos. Thus, you cannot recreate what I do using a different product if you are following my technique to the letter. What I do in my videos is specific to the techniques and products that I'm using as I use different products different ways. Second, I cannot say as to what approach you should try next as I haven't seen what you're working on or how you work. The problem that you are experiencing may be due to the effectiveness of your technique. You could be using the most abrasive products known to man but if you have a lousy technique, then that product will be useless in your hands. Without seeing you work, there is no way for me to answer that question with any level of accuracy.

 

If you want to duplicate the results that you see me achieve in my videos and have me assist you, then you must use what I use and do what I do. That way, I will know exactly what to expect from watching you work. That's another thing, I need to not only see what you're working on, I need to see how you're working. Technique is very important.

 

Lastly, yes I do have wet sanding videos posted here in my sub-forum. Welcome to AF.

[AudiOx]

First of all, welcome to the forum.

 

As for your question, the ideal answer is once. In reality, the answer totally depends on what you do to the paint when you are physically touching it. The paint can only be damaged when it is touched. Thus, if you never touch it, it will only need to be fixed once. Since never touching it is not realistic, the answer totally depends on how you touch it. That's the part of the equation that people totally miss. They are worried about how often they can fix their paint when my mindset is how can I touch the paint without doing anything to damage it. That's two, totally different ways to look at it.

 

Here's something else to consider. If you are starting with some really jacked up paint, using the equipment and techniques that I show in my videos is going to take a bit of work. It will not be fast by any means but it will be the safest, most non-destructive way to fix your paint. There are much faster ways to do it (rotary polisher for example), but NONE of those ways are safe for a novice. If your paint is not that bad to start with, then you will not have that much work to do. Where you stop totally depends on your level of acceptance. Some folks will accept some level of damage remaining in their paint and other will want their paint to be perfect.

 

Now here's the key to everything that you will learn. You should never have to completely repair your paint more than ONCE in the life of the car. How is that you ask? Because once you completely repair the paint, you NEVER do the things that destroyed the paint in the first place again! That's the whole secret to paint repair! Fix it once and PROPERLY maintain it from that point forward. Now in reality, you will pick up a stray scratch here and there but these will be a cake walk to remove. They will be nothing compared to what you will have to remove to start with.

 

 

:bow:This is becoming quite apparent to me. It's taking a LONG time to get my car corrected, BUT panel by panel, it's coming along nicely.

Once I'm done, it won't take nearly as long to maintain given proper washing procedure and staying away from car washes. Awww even those bikini ones?

[Junkman2008]

:bow:This is becoming quite apparent to me. It's taking a LONG time to get my car corrected, BUT panel by panel, it's coming along nicely.

Once I'm done, it won't take nearly as long to maintain given proper washing procedure and staying away from car washes. Awww even those bikini ones?

 

Those are the worse ones!

[Perez]

i went to one of those car washes to help the kids out one time and they dried my car with a dirty terry cloth bath towel. It hurt

[Junkman2008]

i went to one of those car washes to help the kids out one time and they dried my car with a dirty terry cloth bath towel. It hurt

 

Next time, do what I do. Donate the money to them and tell them to stay away from the car. Unless one of the girls are cute, then take a picture of them with the car.

[chief44]

Junkman....love the videos and how-to's. I've been living in your area for the past few months, eating all the food and drinking all the beer.

 

I bought a Flex and noticed that it's got some weight to it. Your technique states 9-14lbs of pressure; however, I don't have a scale that registers anything less than 20lbs. So, what is the weight of the Flex? Just based on feel, it would seem I wouldn't have to apply much additional pressure to achieve the 9-14lb guideline.

 

I'm a novice and bought a Flex....I know, I know...I should've started with the PC. But my wife's car (black Maxima) is swirl city and I wanted to achieve my results sooner vs later. I've watched your videos on using the Flex probably a half-dozen times now (I'm obsessed), so I'm confident in what I see...now it's about putting it to practice.

 

Any insight you can provide is appreciated. As always, great work, great insight, and SWEET RIDE!

[Junkman2008]

Well first, I really haven't made a detailed video on using the Flex yet. The 9-14 pounds that I talk about applies only to the PC. I vary my weight on the Flex depending on what I'm doing and the polish I use. It is never really the same all the time but it would be a lot easier for you to understand had you started with the PC first. I always tell guys that if you want the more versatile machine, go with the PC. You can do more with it than any of the polishers out there, you just can't do it as fast.

 

So now you need to do one of two things. Get a PC and learn how to use it FIRST, or start with the Flex and be in for a learning curve. Both of these machines compliment each other. I posted this on another forum where a guy was trying to decide between the two.

 

"The Flex is a lot more powerful than the PC, however, it can be overkill once you have truly achieved some flawless paint. Once your paint has been fully corrected, all you need is the power of the PC to maintain your paint if you are touching your paint correctly. There is absolutely no need to be cutting more clear coat off your car than necessary. The PC is going to be more friendly when it comes to that aspect of paint maintenance. The PC, even with its limited power is truly the more versatile machine.

 

The Flex has its place and it covers the shortfalls of the PC. However, having both machines in your arsenal is what gives you the best option for complete paint maintenance. I have 4 polishers in my arsenal and all 4 serve a different purpose. Having only one polisher to go to is similar to having a crescent wrench instead of a set of sockets. You can get some things done with a crescent wrench, but a set of sockets is a lot more versatile and effective."

 

Think about David when he went to fight Goliath. They tried to fit David with all kinds of armor but it was too heavy for him. So David took all that stuff off and went down to meet Goliath with his trusty ol' sling shot. You know the rest of the story. Technique my friend. In the right hands with the right technique, you can get a lot done with the PC.