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Junkman's F.A.Q's! (Frequently Asked Questions)


Junkman2008

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Hey boys and girls, I am starting this thread to address all of the common questions that I get on what seems like a daily basis. This thread will contain a ton of information, and this first post will continue to grow as I continually add videos and write-up on things that I often get asked. Thus, you want to subscribe to it as the addition of information will grow as quick as I can knock out the videos and write-ups.

 

That's the theme of this thread so here we go!

 

 

Junkman's Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - The Video!

 

The title says it all. This is how I wash my car when I don't have time to wash it properly.

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uO3gu65UYTA&feature=channel_video_title]Alternative to 2-Bucket Washing - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

How to Perfect "Moving" the PC-7424XP and the Flex 3401VRG at the Proper Tempo

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series is a first, and unlike anything that you will see anywhere else on the web. This video series concentrates on my technique of working both polishers, with the sole concentration being on how fast I move them across the paint. Again, this is strictly my technique as I do it when using any of these polishers to work on paint. Other folks may do it differently and that is fine but this is the way I do it.

 

So if you are using the PC and my technique which consist of:

 

  • 9-14lbs of pressure including the weight of the polisher
  • Speed setting of 5
  • 3 pea-sized drops of polish. With the Flex, I use a thin bead of polish that circles the pad. The Flex requires more polish than the PC.

 

 

These videos will address how fast you should move the polisher. The way that I figured out how to get this across will probably crack you up but hey, we will all be on the same page if you are using my technique. Once you get through the videos, you will probably want to download this file so that you can get your practice on. :thumbsup:

 

Here are the videos!

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=taR6JP2yNfI&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ou4slueGVU&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UTmG-CAj7VE&feature=channel_video_title]Polisher Speed of Movement - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

 

How to Buff on the Side of Your Vehicle

 

 

Okay boys and girls, this video series addresses that question I often get about buffing on the side of the car. I detail this and reinforce my technique for those who are mixing it up with other techniques. I will continue to update this thread with more information and videos as the questions come in.

 

Here are the videos!

 

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3yHQME7dUDU&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 1 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7rnTEIKcbrQ&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 2 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32v_4I-zDyY&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 3 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XK44yWBdERc&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 4 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=feAKE9Up2t0&feature=channel_video_title]Buffing the Side of Your Car - Part 5 - YouTube[/ame]

 

 

 

That's all for now. :cheers:

 

The Junkman

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No problem James. First, welcome to the forum! :thumbsup:

So what are you still sitting there for? Shouldn't you be watching some videos? :D

 

Do you know can I safely use the PC on the clear bra? Should I start with a section on the hood and stay away from the bra and use hand polisher for that area?

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The polisher can be used on a quality clear bra like those made by 3M. However, let's learn to fix some paint first. Mask that clear bra off with blue painters tape and stay away from it until you can learn to fix paint. You can however, work on the clear bra by hand using the proper products.

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Hey Junkman-

 

A couple more questions.

 

I was on the Adams Website checking some stuff out. I noticed that your kit comes with Machine Super Wax, but I couldn't seem to find that product on its own on the website. I did find Machine Super Sealant, though. Has the super wax product been re-named/replaced with the super sealant? And if so, does your kit just ship with the Super Sealant instead?

 

Also, regarding the upgrade in your kit to the Americana Carnuba wax. Will the kit still ship with the black waxing pad? If so, do you recommend applying the Americana Carnuba with this pad, or by hand with the included hand applicator (I'm assuming your upgraded kit would come with the hand applicator)?

 

And lastly - what's your honest opinion. Does the Americana Carnuba out perform the Super Wax/Super Sealant?

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What was M.S.W is now MSS. It was just renamed so you will get the new stuff. You apply Americana by hand, not with the black pad. If you get Americana, it will come with the applicator. As for which one "out performs" the other, MSS last longer than Americana. That's not my opinion, that's the truth. Nothing outlast a sealant. It is the longest lasting type of wax.

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Junkman, comin' at ya again with another question! Don't get sick of me! :2thumbs:

 

I picked up a dr colorchip kit, as well as your Adams kit (can't wait until that gets here).

 

Would you recommend that I use the dr colorchip first, or your paint correction methods? Will the polish just remove the colorchip paint, or will it be bonded well enough to behave as if it were just normal paint?

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Junkman, comin' at ya again with another question! Don't get sick of me! :2thumbs:

 

I picked up a dr colorchip kit, as well as your Adams kit (can't wait until that gets here).

 

Would you recommend that I use the dr colorchip first, or your paint correction methods? Will the polish just remove the colorchip paint, or will it be bonded well enough to behave as if it were just normal paint?

 

The bonding is totally dependent on how well you clean the chip out before you fix them and once the paint is applied, how long you allow it to dry. What I would do is fix the paint first but do not apply wax. Then fix the chips. Once the chips are good and dry, apply the wax.

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Hey Junkman-

 

A couple more questions.

 

I was on the Adams Website checking some stuff out. I noticed that your kit comes with Machine Super Wax, but I couldn't seem to find that product on its own on the website. I did find Machine Super Sealant, though. Has the super wax product been re-named/replaced with the super sealant? And if so, does your kit just ship with the Super Sealant instead?

 

Also, regarding the upgrade in your kit to the Americana Carnuba wax. Will the kit still ship with the black waxing pad? If so, do you recommend applying the Americana Carnuba with this pad, or by hand with the included hand applicator (I'm assuming your upgraded kit would come with the hand applicator)?

 

And lastly - what's your honest opinion. Does the Americana Carnuba out perform the Super Wax/Super Sealant?

 

 

Same product, name changed to more accurately describe it.

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thanks! does anyone have any tips for using the PC on a black car? I've been reading that black cars and PCs can be a little harder to manage, especially for the novice. Apparently this combination is more susceptible to micro marring? Not sure because I've never done it.

 

I plan on watching the junkman videos one more time to make sure I have all that memorized as well, before I dive in.

 

Also, is it possible to use the 6 inch pads on areas that a 4 inch pad should probably be used on, such as along the A pillars on the sides of the windshield? My logic says this could be bad, especially when you have only about 3 or 4 inches of paint in contact with a 6.75 inch pad. That seems like it could get a little hairy.

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First off, fixing black paint is no different that fixing pink paint. The process is exactly the same. Black paint will do one thing for you. It will let you know whether or not your technique stinks because your results are a lot easier to see.

 

If you follow the technique that I use in my videos, you will get results. You don't have to worry about damaging anything with the PC.

 

As for the pad size, you can use them if you want on those areas. They may not work as well or be as manageable but you are not going to hurt anything.

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So you know how rail dust and other contaminants can cause little rust specks in your paint? I'm noticing some of that on my car. I've been looking closer at my paint lately in preparation for doing some detailing. Anyway, I don't think they are everywhere, but the ones I can see seem to be along the bottom of the fenders and doors (where break dust probably accumulated). The car is black, so it's a little harder to see. There nonetheless, though.

 

I tried claying them out without luck. If they're not coming out, will they polish out? Or will polishing over them just cause more damage and problems?

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So you know how rail dust and other contaminants can cause little rust specks in your paint? I'm noticing some of that on my car. I've been looking closer at my paint lately in preparation for doing some detailing. Anyway, I don't think they are everywhere, but the ones I can see seem to be along the bottom of the fenders and doors (where break dust probably accumulated). The car is black, so it's a little harder to see. There nonetheless, though.

 

I tried claying them out without luck. If they're not coming out, will they polish out? Or will polishing over them just cause more damage and problems?

I'm not sure thats rail dust bro, post pics cause clay should solve that if its rail dust and you are using the clay right

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And exactly how much PINK paint have you corrected AJ :lolsmack::lolsmack::lolsmack:

 

I did a Caddy for this sexy Mary Kay sales lady. That was a lot of pink! :D

 

So you know how rail dust and other contaminants can cause little rust specks in your paint? I'm noticing some of that on my car. I've been looking closer at my paint lately in preparation for doing some detailing. Anyway, I don't think they are everywhere, but the ones I can see seem to be along the bottom of the fenders and doors (where break dust probably accumulated). The car is black, so it's a little harder to see. There nonetheless, though.

 

I tried claying them out without luck. If they're not coming out, will they polish out? Or will polishing over them just cause more damage and problems?

 

Like MBreyer said, that may not be rail dust. What it may be is pitting or staining in your paint from using those over the counter tire dressing that sling all over your fenders. That stuff will etch into the clear and go deep. There's no polishing that stuff out if it stains the paint long enough.

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Here are some pictures. I tried the best I could to capture it. I've never used any kind of tire dressings, so I don't think this is staining from that. But I can feel these little rust specs with my nail - so I don't think it's a stain. You can see three of them together here. The camera didn't capture their color all that accurately. They're a brown/red rusty color.

 

I'm also posting a couple pictures of a door ding I got this summer. Someone next to me at the driving range decided to open their door as far as it could go. I can feel it with my nail, so I'm guessing wet sanding on that one. Ugh.

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Okay, if you can feel the stains that you tried claying and didn't remove, then you ain't claying hard enough. As my father use to say, "Put your butt in it son!" You have got to scrub the hell out of those spots before they budge. Watch me clay and you'll see what I mean.

 

As for that scratch, don't even think about it. That is way beyond your means. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it is most likely through the clear and into the paint.

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As for that scratch, don't even think about it. That is way beyond your means. If you can feel it with your fingernail, it is most likely through the clear and into the paint.

 

That was my fear. In your experience, what do you think a pro would charge to fix it? It would probably depend on whether or not they resprayed the entire panel, or feathered it in.

 

As for the claying, I'ma have to wait and give the Adam's clay a go once your kit gets here. I've been using meguiars clay. It seems a little soft. Maybe Adams clay will work a little better.

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That was my fear. In your experience, what do you think a pro would charge to fix it? It would probably depend on whether or not they resprayed the entire panel, or feathered it in.

 

The only person who is going to use feathering to fix that damage is an air brush artist who is very good and spot repairing body panels. I don't see a bunch of those guys around anywhere. Most shops are going to paint the entire panel. That's what shops do now. Gone are the days of the body shop artist. You just can't find a Chip Foose on every block anymore.

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The kit came! It looks like Adam's was nice enough to attach the backing plate to the PC for me. Is it pretty much ready to use as is? The video that you posted on YouTube on prepping the PC is private so I can't watch it.

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